dust collection install tools ,what do I need ?

[Mike Kees]

I have finally ordered all my fittings and spiral pipe for my dust collection system. I need advice on how to put it all together. Should I screw it or pop rivets ? I do not have a pop riveter what would be a good one to buy if I need it ? The tools I have : makita metal cut-off saw (grinder style wheel blade) , 4'' grinder, tin snips, and ....gloves. What else could I possibly need ? Thanks in advance for any help, Mike.

[James Gunning]

Most folks recommend using sheet metal screws to fasten the sections together. Using screws allows easy repositioning or reconfiguring in the future. Also, most use some kind of tape or sealant on the joints.

[Andy Giddings]

Self drilling sheet metal screws on mine, covered those over with a mastic tape. Won't ever leak but is a PITA to remove the tape. I used a jigsaw with a fine sheet metal blade to cut the pipe cleanly. Angle grinder will work but creates a mess compared to a jigsaw. Assume that you have some sort of hangers or brackets for the duct?

[Mike Kees]

Andy did you use 1/2'' tek screws ? My duct runs along my wall and goes around a corner. For this section I was going to make brackets from plywood scraps and then attach the duct with plumbers strap. I also have one branch that y's off and goes over my open floor area. For this branch the plan is 1/8 cable and cable ''snuggers''. I will probably use screw eyes at the ceiling to suspend this section from my trusses. Is there a proper placement in the duct for screws, like 12 o clock ,3 o clock, 9 o clock or am I over thinking this. Is there a sealant tape that comes off easily or is that just a pipe dream ? I also just remembered another question, I have an offset in my 8'' main duct that can be right at my collector or further down (6'-8') does this make any difference. I thought that I had read somewhere that my pipe should enter my cyclone straight for the last 6'. Is that correct?

[Andy Giddings]

Mike, yes to Tek. This was the size I got for 6 inch 24 gauge https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 . I used 3 for each joint approx. evenly spaced around the circumference. Its not critical. Using less than 3 will allow too much movement IME. Your plan for hangars sounds good - don't need to spend a fortune to buy them. Sealant tape - if it comes off too easily it may not seal or worse, tear if the pipe gets knocked. You can also use mastic which may be easier to clean. Trick with tape is to only put it on once you're sure your setup is good. Regarding the offset - you're correct, a straight run is preferable. Having said that, I have a large radius 45 near my cyclone and there have been zero problems with the setup. If you can get a straight run without major hassle go for it, but it won't ruin things unless you go straight into a tight radius 90. Also, as you're probably aware, go for the largest radius turns you can manage as that is where you get significant losses

[Ben Rivel]

Use sheet metal screws an tape around them when your done. Easier to take apart than rivets and you will be taking it apart sooner or later to make changes.

[Jim Becker]

Keep the screws as short as required if you can, however...you don't want them catching material flowing through the duct work.

[Steve Mathews]

Keep the screws as short as required if you can, however...you don't want them catching material flowing through the duct work.

I agree with Jim's concern in that any protrusions can catch material flowing through the duct causing a potential fire hazard. This is the same or similar concern that requires the use of pop rivets in kitchen exhaust ducts. The rivets are not hard to install and can easily be removed by drilling them out. The riveting tool and rivets are not expensive.

[Jebediah Eckert]

Maybe it has been mentioned already but a good quality crimper. It helps with stubborn connections that don't seem to want to go together. This is especially true when you are working without help above your head, or can't brace the piece your trying to push into.

I used the screws. They are fast and easy. I thought about rivets but for me it was just one more thing to add that I didn't know how to do. If your not experienced with metal ducting it's a big enough project to begin with.

I also used a jigsaw to cut the pipe with a fine metal blade. Use hearing protection making the cuts, it is loud. I tried the snips but had no luck with the thicker gauge duct.

[Mike Kees]

Thank you for all the information guys. My parts and pieces are all ordered and I should have everything in about a week. So the install is about to begin. I actually spent a couple of hours building brackets for my main duct supports from some scrap one inch plywood left from stair treads on Saturday. I can't wait to have this system set up.

[Hoang N Nguyen]

I'm also one that uses screws and tape. When it came to hanging my duct, I use metal worm gear clamps. I drilled a small hole in the center and drive it into a stud with a screw. I thread the clamp to get it started and than I slide my duct into it. It helps as a third set of hands to hold long runs of duct while you try and fit the other end into a fitting. Once you tighten the clamp, the duct is solid and won't move. This method allowed me to install my duct work on my own including all the overhead runs I had.

[Andy Giddings]

I used these for the overhead horizontal run of 6 inch duct https://www.mcmaster.com/#3037t73/=165hyk5. As Hoang states, doing this on your own is tricky unless you have an easy way of supporting the long pieces of duct. IME clamping them horizontally to stop movement isn't that important compared to supporting them. In some ways, allowing the duct to move once supported was helpful in getting all of the connections completed

[Fred Falgiano]

Self tapping sheet metal screws with a hex head. I tried some Phillips only screws that I had laying around and a hex head screws used with hex driver with a magnet makes it SO much easier to push the screws through the ducts.

I'll pile on to the jig saw crowd.

Also, tape is cheap (peel off foil tape is about $10 a roll at big box). Tape ALL the seams. This includes seams on adjustable elbows once you have them aligned how you want them. You're paying big bucks for a dust collector with enough power for your system, so you don't want to just give that power away through leaky elbows.

[Brice Rogers]

Fred, thanks for your comments about even taping the adjustable 90 degree elbows. I was just about to post that question and I came across your comment. Thanks.

[Steve Mathews]

Fred, thanks for your comments about even taping the adjustable 90 degree elbows. I was just about to post that question and I came across your comment. Thanks.

You can also use a mastic like duct sealant in either a tube or tub for brushing on. I think the finished product looks better than tape and is more universal in that any small opening can be sealed with it. It also doesn't come unraveled like tape is prone to do.