walnut slabwork

[alex grams]

it seems walnut tables are popular with me lately. This is a large claro walnut slab that I will make in to a dining table to sit 8-10.

Delivered from the freight company and on sawhorses in the garage.



Epoxy round 1:



removing excess epoxy:



some alcohol to see the grain:



I have some more small touchup spots of epoxy to do, then will do cocobolo butterfly dovetails on cracks on the top. The slab has a slight contour, so I am planing a few high spots down to get it as flat as I can.


The base will be a trestle style table base out of walnut with a long arched stretcher:


I use the blowtorch to pop bubbles in the epoxy, but still need to figure out a way to get full flooding of cracks and removal of bubbles (any input is appreciated!). I still have to usually do small touchups after the first epoxy filling. I mix a paste to wipe on the back, let it dry, then flip the slabs over to pour in from the top without it leaking out the bottom, but some cracks are so small that no matter how much I watch while the epoxy cures, it will leak in some more and not completely fill the crack (requiring a follow up epoxy application) or let a few air bubbles out that need to be filled.

[jack duren]

Why not pour epoxy on it too seal it?

[Jim Becker]

That's going to be a lovely table!

[Jim Becker]

Why not pour epoxy on it too seal it?

Subjective thing for sure, but while a poured epoxy finish is a popular thing for a bar surface, it's not necessarily a good look for a dining table, IMHO.

[Stan Calow]

What is the use of the propane torch?

[Al Launier]

To remove the bubbles.

[jack duren]

Subjective thing for sure, but while a poured epoxy finish is a popular thing for a bar surface, it's not necessarily a good look for a dining table, IMHO.

It's not just for bars, it can eliminate his problem. You think of poured epoxy as a thick finish,not always....

Put on epoxy and scrap off excess, sand table, easy. Same problem with bowling table. No way to eliminate air. Best to epoxy,heat and trap whats left....
.IMG_0370_1481070474319.jpg

[Jim Becker]

That makes sense, Jack, but I'd still be worried about clarity with the resin...unless I've missed something, it's not as "clear" as other finish choices. It sure is nice to have a lot of choices, however!

[alex grams]

This will most likely be a medium sheen finish. Probably a few light coats of shellac, then wipe on finish of either waterlox or minwax antique oil. If I was going to do a high sheen I would consider epoxy.

[jack duren]

This is epoxy. You can always bring down the finish. In this case its satin urethane... First you manage the air problem, then move onto your finish. As I said, Your not finishing it with epoxy, only fixing the problem before you finish it the way it suits you.. Just preparation..

IMG_0112.jpgIMG_0111.jpg

[Paul A. Clark]

Alex,

i have found on deep voids, is to do multiple small pours. Hit each pour with the torch, let it cure overnight and rinse, repeat until void is filled. This does take an additional day or two but with better results

[Barry Block]

Alex,

i have found on deep voids, is to do multiple small pours. Hit each pour with the torch, let it cure overnight and rinse, repeat until void is filled. This does take an additional day or two but with better results

I'm with Paul. I tape the bottom and do multiple applications. Another thing I do is drop some thin then thick CA glue into the void with a spritz of accelorator hoping to seal the bottom and cracks within the void quickly. I think this often allows me to do fewer applications of epoxy and save time.

[Allen Jordan]

Great-looking slab. Where did you buy it from?