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Thread: Freud 10" Industrial TK Glue Line Ripping 1st impressions

  1. #1
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    Thumbs up Freud 10" Industrial TK Glue Line Ripping 1st impressions

    I use Forrest WWII TK blades for general crosscutting and plywood cuts. When I need a ripping blade I usually just head down to my local HD and pick up a Freud Diablo blade. $30. Cheap and quick. And it works pretty well...at least better than ripping with the Forrest blade. When the Diablo gets dull, I repeat the process and buy another new one.
    At my last Woodcraft visit, the clerk sold me on the Freud Industrial TK Glue Line Ripping blade. He was touting the carbide they use on the industrial line equal if not better than that of Forrest's. For $65, I thought it worth a try.

    I've only used it so far on some 3/4" poplar. I must say I am impressed. No burn marks whatsoever and the finish it left could be easily cleaned up with 320 grit sandpaper. I'm crappin ya negative, it's that smooth. I really think it could eliminate a post-rip pass on the jointer. If you're in the market for a new ripping blade, I recommend it highly.

  2. #2
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    I use them on my 12" Minimax. Awesome, second only to FS Tool, but quite a bit cheaper. I think Forrest is overrated myself. I use Freud Ultimate Cutoffs in chop saws and have one for my Omga RAS that works well too.

  3. #3
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    $69.00 at Amazon and eligible for Prime (Free Shipping)

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Kirkpatrick View Post
    I use Forrest WWII TK blades for general crosscutting and plywood cuts. When I need a ripping blade I usually just head down to my local HD and pick up a Freud Diablo blade. $30. Cheap and quick. And it works pretty well...at least better than ripping with the Forrest blade. When the Diablo gets dull, I repeat the process and buy another new one.
    At my last Woodcraft visit, the clerk sold me on the Freud Industrial TK Glue Line Ripping blade. He was touting the carbide they use on the industrial line equal if not better than that of Forrest's. For $65, I thought it worth a try.

    I've only used it so far on some 3/4" poplar. I must say I am impressed. No burn marks whatsoever and the finish it left could be easily cleaned up with 320 grit sandpaper. I'm crappin ya negative, it's that smooth. I really think it could eliminate a post-rip pass on the jointer. If you're in the market for a new ripping blade, I recommend it highly.
    Keep in mind that that the Freud DIABLO blades are their bottom of the line blades that are sold generally only to discount houses. When you see the 'DIABLO' name, that is the tip-off. Just thought I'd mention it for future reference.
    I generally only used Systimatic blades and slowly converted to Freud which I now think is a better blade.

    Some other stuff to keep in mind is that Freud blades will cut best with only 1/3 to 1/2 of a tooth exposed past the height of your work. This is in the design and is not just safety hype although safety is exactly what spurred this design. Because of this design, not every saw sharpening shop is set up for or aware of this and will quickly ruin your blade. The Freud website lists recommended sharpening services.

    I build fine furnituire and do not own a joiner. With a good Table Saw and a good blade you should get a nice smooth even cut and a joiner is not necessary.

    BTW, I have no connections to or investments in Freud. I am just a satisfied customer.
    Retired, living and cruising full-time on my boat.
    Currently on the Little Tennessee River near Knoxville

  5. #5
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    I can only concur. The Forrest WWII lives in my Unisaw 80% of the time, the rest of the time I'm doing ripping with my Glue Line Rip.
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  6. #6
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    The specs say that the GLR is for up to 1". Anyone use it over that and have good results? If your a Forrest dude, I believe the WWI is for ripping, correct?

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by William Long View Post
    The specs say that the GLR is for up to 1". Anyone use it over that and have good results? If your a Forrest dude, I believe the WWI is for ripping, correct?
    There are 2 models of the glue line rip, one of them handles the thinner stock and the other handles thicker stock. I've got the one handling thicker stock and it rips 3/4" beautifully.

    Just to second what has been said, I have frequently glued up a panel straight off the TS with this blade rather than taking a pass on the jointer.

  8. #8
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    Maybe I'm missing something here, but I can joint the edge of a board a LOT faster than I can change out a blade in my tablesaw. Perhaps if I were doing some heavy production with repetitive ripping, it would make sense. For the average woodworker though, I don't see it. I bought the Freud Glue-Line Rip a couple of years ago on sale in a weak moment but I don't use it because it's just more trouble than it's worth.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brad Townsend View Post
    Maybe I'm missing something here, but I can joint the edge of a board a LOT faster than I can change out a blade in my tablesaw. Perhaps if I were doing some heavy production with repetitive ripping, it would make sense. For the average woodworker though, I don't see it. I bought the Freud Glue-Line Rip a couple of years ago on sale in a weak moment but I don't use it because it's just more trouble than it's worth.
    I rarely change blades because of a cut. I normally use a general purpose blade for every cut on a project. A good general purpose blade will also give a smooth ripping cut that can be used for glue-up.
    Companies like Freud, Forrest and Systimatic produce quality blades throughout their whole product range. Specialized blades like the GLR blade are generally used in larger production shops that have dedicated saws. All the average home woodworker will ever need is a good general purpose blade.
    Retired, living and cruising full-time on my boat.
    Currently on the Little Tennessee River near Knoxville

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by William Long View Post
    The specs say that the GLR is for up to 1". Anyone use it over that and have good results? If your a Forrest dude, I believe the WWI is for ripping, correct?
    No. The WWI is mainly a crosscutting blade with 60 teeth, although Forrest says it's good for ripping up to 2" thick. I never use mine for ripping. There is a WWII with 30 teeth instead of 40 that is a decent ripping blade and also crosscuts fairly well. Forrest does make a 20-tooth ripping blade.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brad Townsend View Post
    Maybe I'm missing something here, but I can joint the edge of a board a LOT faster than I can change out a blade in my tablesaw. Perhaps if I were doing some heavy production with repetitive ripping, it would make sense. For the average woodworker though, I don't see it. I bought the Freud Glue-Line Rip a couple of years ago on sale in a weak moment but I don't use it because it's just more trouble than it's worth.
    Many of us don't have jointers......

  12. #12
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    The WWII does a great job for ripping boards, up to about 1 1/2" thick, that are ready right off the saw for edge gluing, without passing over a jointer. If I had to true the faces of rough lumber, I might get a jointer, but for edges, the tablesaw has been good enough.

  13. I agree that a good general purpose blade is all most people will ever need. However, if you like dedicated blades for ripping, crosscutting, etc., changing out the blade takes about 1 minute, if that. I think its really a matter of personal preference.

  14. #14
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    Some other stuff to keep in mind is that Freud blades will cut best with only 1/3 to 1/2 of a tooth exposed past the height of your work. This is in the design and is not just safety hype although safety is exactly what spurred this design. Because of this design, not every saw sharpening shop is set up for or aware of this and will quickly ruin your blade. The Freud website lists recommended sharpening services. [/quote]

    Where did you see this?

    The Freud reps were in town a couple weeks ago, and they suggested setting up with half a tooth showing, but didn't say anything about cut quality.

    I'm not arguing; just want to learn more....

    -TH

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by William Long View Post
    The specs say that the GLR is for up to 1". Anyone use it over that and have good results? If your a Forrest dude, I believe the WWI is for ripping, correct?
    I recently purchased a thick-kerf GLR blade. I haven't used it much, but did notice a significantly poorer cut quality on 2" thick stock compared to 1". It still wasn't bad, though; a couple passes with a hand plane cleaned it up nicely.

    BUT -- my saw is a 1-1/2 horse Contractor saw, so at least part of the problem may have been the saw not having adequate power.

    I did buy an LU87 rip blade that doesn't have the stock thickness limitation, and it did fine even on my puny CS.

    -TH
    Last edited by Tom Henderson2; 03-22-2009 at 12:12 PM.

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