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Thread: Woodshop Build

  1. #16
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    Get all the major components located before deciding on rows and rows of cabinets.

    For me, everything begins at my large assembly table. Sheet goods get layed out and cut to size using the track saw. Rough lumber gets one edge straightened with the track saw. That lumber then goes to either the bandsaw, table saw or radial arm saw.

    Your bandsaw is virtually useless pushed up close to the wall like you've shown, with nowhere for the out-feed. The cad program might be severely handicapping you. Try arranging some paper doll replicas of your machines and benches, so you can easily and quickly try different approaches.
    "Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."

  2. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by andy bessette View Post
    Get all the major components located before deciding on rows and rows of cabinets.

    For me, everything begins at my large assembly table. Sheet goods get layed out and cut to size using the track saw. Rough lumber gets one edge straightened with the track saw. That lumber then goes to either the bandsaw, table saw or radial arm saw.

    Your bandsaw is virtually useless pushed up close to the wall like you've shown, with nowhere for the out-feed. The cad program might be severely handicapping you. Try arranging some paper doll replicas of your machines and benches, so you can easily and quickly try different approaches.
    So right now, there aren't any walls on the inside and probably won't be for while. And I am struggling with where to put the bandsaw as I don't really use it that much other than for small cutouts and the occasional resaw. And I'm still struggling on if I want to put my thickness planer in a permanent place.

    The idea of the cabinets around the RAS was more for the workspace around RAS and the drawers were there to add storage. The other cabinets I put there to see what it would look like.

  3. #18
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    Your bandsaw and thickness plane will require a clear path to run long pieces through them. I like my bandsaw on its rolling base. But my thickness plane is way too heavy to be moving around. So I keep a path clear for it.
    "Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."

  4. #19
    Okay, thanks for the advise. I'll take it into consideration!

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jason Zondor View Post
    Okay, thanks for the advise. I'll take it into consideration!

    What are you doing for Dust Collection?
    "I've cut the dang thing three times and it's STILL too darn short"
    Name withheld to protect the guilty

    Stew Hagerty

  6. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by Stew Hagerty View Post
    What are you doing for Dust Collection?
    I saw what my father-in-law went through with his central dust collection system and what he spent on it. Which really shy'ed me away from that approach. So I'm going to setup shop vacuums per station essentially. That's why there's a space beneath the RAS. I'm also planning on having a chip separator for each vacuum as well. Probably custom make it, just depends on well it works out. Plus, right now, my ceiling is 14' up in the air so ducting overhead isn't something I want to mess with for right now.

    If after working with this model for a bit I don't like it or doesn't work well, I'll plan on putting in a central vac system in when I fully inclose the shop.

  7. #22
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    You should also plan where you are going to put the dust collector. Many people located it in a room other than their shop to make the shop less noisy. Also you will want to plan your suction lines. Some people will put in a separator (cyclone or thien baffle) to separate out 95% of the sawdust - - it keeps the filters more clean and operating more efficiently. Of course, if you can vent outside, then just a separator would work.

    Windows for ventilation? (BTW, if you are subject to building codes, you will need either a bathroom window or a bathroom fan). I don't know what your climate is like, but give some thought to heat and A/C.

    Toilet for the shop or garage? Great idea. Keeps you from having to enter the house when covered with sawdust.

    Electricity? Put in lots of quad receptacles. Code is every 12 feet, but I did every six feet and I've never regretted it. Before you close up the wall where the electrical panel will be, it might be a good idea to bring in 2, 3 or 4 12-gauge cables for future changes. 20 years ago I put in two extra cables and a month ago was concerned about having to open up the finished wall to add 220 for my lathe. Then I remembered that I had some spare cables. Whew! Also plan your 220 needs.

    Telephone?

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jason Zondor View Post
    I saw what my father-in-law went through with his central dust collection system and what he spent on it. Which really shy'ed me away from that approach. So I'm going to setup shop vacuums per station essentially. T
    ShopVacs work on completely different principles than dust collection systems. The former moves little air at high pressure and the latter moves large volumes of air at lower pressure. It's the air that moves the dust and chips. ShopVacs are great for smaller tools, such as hand held sanders, routers, etc., but are not adequate for dust collection on larger tools because they can only move a low volume of air. Keep that in mind as you plan things further as it can affect how your arrange your tools for both workflow and dust collection efficiency. If you really do need to use dedicated collection per machine, instead of shop vacs (which also tend to be very loud) use smaller single-machine dust collection blowers and small micron filter bags. That's not ideal for collection, but it will work better than the shop vacs for sure.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  9. #24
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    ShopVacs work on completely different principles than dust collection systems. The former moves little air at high pressure and the latter moves large volumes of air at lower pressure. It's the air that moves the dust and chips. ShopVacs are great for smaller tools, such as hand held sanders, routers, etc., but are not adequate for dust collection on larger tools because they can only move a low volume of air. Keep that in mind as you plan things further as it can affect how your arrange your tools for both workflow and dust collection efficiency. If you really do need to use dedicated collection per machine, instead of shop vacs (which also tend to be very loud) use smaller single-machine dust collection blowers and small micron filter bags. That's not ideal for collection, but it will work better than the shop vacs for sure.
    Thanks, never had it explained like that to me before. I always wondered why people spent so much money on a big unit vs individual shop vacs. And yes, they are noisy.

  10. #25
    Quote Originally Posted by Brice Rogers View Post
    You should also plan where you are going to put the dust collector. Many people located it in a room other than their shop to make the shop less noisy. Also you will want to plan your suction lines. Some people will put in a separator (cyclone or thien baffle) to separate out 95% of the sawdust - - it keeps the filters more clean and operating more efficiently. Of course, if you can vent outside, then just a separator would work.

    Windows for ventilation? (BTW, if you are subject to building codes, you will need either a bathroom window or a bathroom fan). I don't know what your climate is like, but give some thought to heat and A/C.

    Toilet for the shop or garage? Great idea. Keeps you from having to enter the house when covered with sawdust.

    Electricity? Put in lots of quad receptacles. Code is every 12 feet, but I did every six feet and I've never regretted it. Before you close up the wall where the electrical panel will be, it might be a good idea to bring in 2, 3 or 4 12-gauge cables for future changes. 20 years ago I put in two extra cables and a month ago was concerned about having to open up the finished wall to add 220 for my lathe. Then I remembered that I had some spare cables. Whew! Also plan your 220 needs.

    Telephone?
    I guess I should have explained this better; The wood shop is a section of a larger building. It's a 40x60 building that I built and I've split it up into three basic areas (no inside walls yet). So there's the wood shop which is in the South-East Corner, the car shop which is in the North-East Corner and then the trailer / tractor storage which is the entire west side. There's a bathroom in the car shop so I don't have to go into the house all messy and make the wife angry.

    21333777684_a49e931134_c.jpg

    I posted a lot of the progress on the garage journal message board (PM me if you want the link) back when the building was being built, but I figured I'd hop on over to this message board for the Woodshop...


    I was able to get a dedicated meter/electrical panel (200amp service) coming off of a different transformer, separate from the house. Yeah, I have two electric bills but honestly, it's nice to be able to track my shop usage separate from the house. Plus, when I fire up the welder or the plasma cutter, the house lights don't dim. I also ran conduit under the slab before it was poured to get to the outside walls of the shop. Which was really nice for the table saw because I was able to put the outlets in the floor. And there's enough room in the panel for several 220v circuits. But for now, I only have one 220v circuit (for the welder). I do plan on putting in more outlets around the wood shop and a couple more put in around the car shop. I planned for that.

    No telephone, we don't even use our land-line at the house.

    Air-conditioning (heating and cooling) is still a question-mark. My original idea was to try and use the split-ductless system and have two remote units, one of the wood shop and one for the car shop. But that was when I was going to enclose both shops. But after using the areas for a few months now, I'm not so sure about enclosing the car shop area. I will want to one day enclose the wood shop so the split unit might still work out or I may just put in a regular AC/Heat unit... but I'm not sure yet. For now, it's open up the doors in the summer and use fans and bundle up in the winter. And honestly, it hasn't been too bad since the shop is insulated. Only two problems I ran into, 1) In the winter, it was colder inside a couple of times, I'm guessing because it trapped the cooler air? 2) Moisture control, we had a couple of high humid days this winter and now all the tools with cast-iron have rust on them. I croaked when I walked in to the shop to see my table saw rusted. So I know I will definitely need to control the humidity but more so for the wood than the tools.
    Last edited by Chris Padilla; 02-14-2017 at 6:23 PM. Reason: links to other forums not allowed per T.O.S.

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jason Zondor View Post
    Thanks, never had it explained like that to me before. I always wondered why people spent so much money on a big unit vs individual shop vacs. And yes, they are noisy.
    Yup...dust collection largely revolves around CFM (cubic feet per minute) so the more air you can move, the more dust and chips you can move. That's alway why duct diameter matters. Duct size also physically limits CFM. 6" duct (typical at least for main runs) can fit nearly 4 times the air in the space than a 4" duct. Think about how much air you can fit in a shop vac hose in that context and what the effect will be.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  12. #27
    Quote Originally Posted by Jason Zondor View Post
    I guess I should have explained this better; The wood shop is a section of a larger building. It's a 40x60 building that I built and I've split it up into three basic areas (no inside walls yet). So there's the wood shop which is in the South-East Corner, the car shop which is in the North-East Corner and then the trailer / tractor storage which is the entire west side. There's a bathroom in the car shop so I don't have to go into the house all messy and make the wife angry.

    21333777684_a49e931134_c.jpg

    I posted a lot of the progress on the message board back when the building was being built, but I figured I'd hop on over to this message board for the Woodshop...

    I was able to get a dedicated meter/electrical panel (200amp service) coming off of a different transformer, separate from the house. Yeah, I have two electric bills but honestly, it's nice to be able to track my shop usage separate from the house. Plus, when I fire up the welder or the plasma cutter, the house lights don't dim. I also ran conduit under the slab before it was poured to get to the outside walls of the shop. Which was really nice for the table saw because I was able to put the outlets in the floor. And there's enough room in the panel for several 220v circuits. But for now, I only have one 220v circuit (for the welder). I do plan on putting in more outlets around the wood shop and a couple more put in around the car shop. I planned for that.

    No telephone, we don't even use our land-line at the house.

    Air-conditioning (heating and cooling) is still a question-mark. My original idea was to try and use the split-ductless system and have two remote units, one of the wood shop and one for the car shop. But that was when I was going to enclose both shops. But after using the areas for a few months now, I'm not so sure about enclosing the car shop area. I will want to one day enclose the wood shop so the split unit might still work out or I may just put in a regular AC/Heat unit... but I'm not sure yet. For now, it's open up the doors in the summer and use fans and bundle up in the winter. And honestly, it hasn't been too bad since the shop is insulated. Only two problems I ran into, 1) In the winter, it was colder inside a couple of times, I'm guessing because it trapped the cooler air? 2) Moisture control, we had a couple of high humid days this winter and now all the tools with cast-iron have rust on them. I croaked when I walked in to the shop to see my table saw rusted. So I know I will definitely need to control the humidity but more so for the wood than the tools.
    We have similar buildings and similar plans. LOMF and I just moved to MN and a fairly new Morton pole barn came with the home. This one is 40x90 with 40x60 being concrete with what looks like similar truss roof framing, 14 at the eves and 16 plus in the center. My infant plan is to build out a wood shop 18x40 on one end of the building. The 18 is defined by existing 12x12 garage door. I'm thinking of keeping the ceiling fairly low 7.5 in the shop and building a mezzanine over head. After becoming 58 years old, married for 36 and 4 great kids, we've collected a lot of "stuff". All of that stuff is invaluable of course, but some times used only used once a year. I'm planning (right now) to build a standard set of stairs to the mezzanine and move all (most) of the shelving we have up to that mezzanine,storing most of the "stuff" up there not taking up floor space in the rest of the barn.

    Pretty sure my big compressor can go up there as well. One of the main reasons for the low ceiling in the shop is wanting to maintain above freezing temps in the wood shop year round. That should help the moisture problem in the winter and a small window A/C unit or dehumidifier in the summer should solve most of the H2O problems.

    I don't have the skills to provide a drawing (working on that) but this also gives plenty of room for the automotive two or four post lift dream I have. I and my sons like to turn a wrench too so trying to stuff 10 pounds of stuff into the 10 pound bag. At least I have the 10 pound bag to start with. ;o)
    Last edited by Chris Padilla; 02-14-2017 at 6:24 PM.

  13. #28
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    I think a 7'-6" ceiling would be a severe handicap for a woodshop.
    "Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
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    SF Bay Area, CA
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    For sure, be versatile. No matter how much thought you put into things or THINK you will do something a certain way, odds are decent you'll find out there is a better way and want to rearrange things or you might find out you love turning in 5 years and never want to work with plywood ever again. Changes aren't permanent but change is!

    I pretty much have all the large tools I'm likely to ever get and I've rearranged things at least 4 times in the past 17 years. Most involve moving my table saw and large jointer/planer around as I try to find optimum locations. Thank goodness my dust collection system is easy to adjust (I went all PVC).
    Last edited by Chris Padilla; 02-14-2017 at 6:29 PM.
    Wood: a fickle medium....

    Did you know SMC is user supported? Please help.

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
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    Bellingham, Washington
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    1,149
    You talked about wood storage up high since you have a 14 foot ceiling. My only suggestion is that you will not always be young. Getting heavy wood down from above gets harder and harder as you age.
    Bracken's Pond Woodworks[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

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