Results 1 to 14 of 14

Thread: drawer slides meaning of Side clearance: 1/2" + 1/32" - 0

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Columbus, Ohio, USA
    Posts
    3,441

    drawer slides meaning of Side clearance: 1/2" + 1/32" - 0

    I purchased some KV drawer slides and they came without instructions. I believe that the side clearance is listed as:

    Side clearance: 1/2" + 1/32" - 0


    So, what exactly does this mean?

    Assume I have an opening of 10", I don't, but it is a nice even number.

    Does this mean? Does this mean that the drawer must be exactly 1 1/16" smaller than the opening (8 15/16"), or, that the drawer may be between 8 15/16" and 9", but it may NOT be larger than 9"?

  2. #2
    Andrew; A clearance of 1/2" +1/32 -0 means that the clearance may be between 1/2" and 17/32"; The -0 indicates that it can NOT be less than 1/2".

    Therefore with your 10" opening, your drawer width would be between 8 15/16" and 9".


  3. #3
    Make the drawer between 1" and 1-1/16" less than the opening

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Corvallis, OR
    Posts
    109
    These answers look good to me. Just to show you the reasoning behind their math, KV is telling you that the slide on each side of the drawer needs 1/2" with a tolerance of (+1/32, -0/32). In other words, each slide can expand 1/32 without affecting its performance, but can't shrink. So multiply that by 2 for two slides and you get a clearance of 1" and up to + 1/16, but minus 0. Given a 10" opening, the slides need 1" plus up to 1/16" so your drawer should be between 10 - 1 = 9" and 10-1-1/16 = 8 15/16.

    The important concept here is that the slides can expand a little bit, but can't be compressed. (Hence the -0/32 on the tolerance.)

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    State College, PA
    Posts
    376
    I have the impression that it is better to allow a little more than the minimum clearance. So, for your example, aiming for a drawer width of 8-31/32" might be good.

    Those with more experience, correct me if I am wrong.

  6. #6
    I would say more in summer, less in winter, here in the Mid West.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Columbus, Ohio, USA
    Posts
    3,441
    Thanks, this really helps...

    I have used drawer slides that listed a +/- tolerance, but this just had a +. WHen I used the plus, I just assumed they did not want to write 1/2+1/32 as 33/32 with zero tolerance, for example.

    When I saw it this time, I thought.... that I was probably wrong. And I was.

    So thanks again. Very helpful...

    And yes, i am about to build another drawer that I intend to put UNDER a cabinet.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    mid-coast Maine and deep space
    Posts
    2,656
    Quote Originally Posted by Jay Aubuchon View Post
    I have the impression that it is better to allow a little more than the minimum clearance. So, for your example, aiming for a drawer width of 8-31/32" might be good.

    Those with more experience, correct me if I am wrong.
    This is risky. You would very likely end up needing thin washers between the slides and the cabinet at each screw. Tedious though workable. That 1/32" tolerance per side is really the maximum amount of play. The drawers will never work right otherwise without a fix. In my experience, at least.
    "... for when we become in heart completely poor, we at once are the treasurers & disbursers of enormous riches."
    WQJudge

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Northern Michigan
    Posts
    5,008
    Quote Originally Posted by Sam Murdoch View Post
    This is risky. You would very likely end up needing thin washers between the slides and the cabinet at each screw. Tedious though workable. That 1/32" tolerance per side is really the maximum amount of play. The drawers will never work right otherwise without a fix. In my experience, at least.

    Sam

    I keep a box of fender shims in the shop for just this occasion.

    https://www.kimballmidwest.com/All-Products/Fleet-and-Vehicle-Maintenance/Body-and-Alignment-Shims/60433/

    I buy 1/16", and the ones I bought have a pre-bent tab on the top to hang on to. You just loosen up the screw and slide one in behind and tighten the screw back up. Very unobtrusive, and as we all know, we can't be perfect all the time. The ones I use are CarQuest P.#8021634
    Last edited by Larry Edgerton; 02-12-2017 at 12:04 PM.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    mid-coast Maine and deep space
    Posts
    2,656
    Quote Originally Posted by Larry Edgerton View Post
    Sam

    I keep a box of fender shims in the shop for just this occasion.

    https://www.kimballmidwest.com/All-Products/Fleet-and-Vehicle-Maintenance/Body-and-Alignment-Shims/60433/

    I buy 1/16", and the ones I bought have a pre-bent tab on the top to hang on to. You just loosen up the screw and slide one in behind and tighten the screw back up. Very unobtrusive, and as we all know, we can't be perfect all the time. The ones I use are CarQuest P.#8021634

    Excellent Larry! I have used regular unobtrusive 1/2" dia. washers but your solution, with the tabs, is UPTOWN compared to my pathetic and a bit aggravating at times (though workable) solution. We all get smarter every day. AND YES - "we can't be perfect all the time". Thanks for that upgraded tip.
    "... for when we become in heart completely poor, we at once are the treasurers & disbursers of enormous riches."
    WQJudge

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    State College, PA
    Posts
    376
    Quote Originally Posted by Sam Murdoch View Post
    This is risky. You would very likely end up needing thin washers between the slides and the cabinet at each screw. Tedious though workable. That 1/32" tolerance per side is really the maximum amount of play. The drawers will never work right otherwise without a fix. In my experience, at least.
    Right. For me, planning to use 1/64 of that tolerance on each side works well. If I make the drawer the maximum width, 9" in this case, I tend to end up with a fit that is too tight.

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Larry Edgerton View Post
    Sam

    I keep a box of fender shims in the shop for just this occasion.

    https://www.kimballmidwest.com/All-Products/Fleet-and-Vehicle-Maintenance/Body-and-Alignment-Shims/60433/

    I buy 1/16", and the ones I bought have a pre-bent tab on the top to hang on to. You just loosen up the screw and slide one in behind and tighten the screw back up. Very unobtrusive, and as we all know, we can't be perfect all the time. The ones I use are CarQuest P.#8021634
    I cut up empty cereal boxes, and use them for shims when needed. Low cost and effective.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lewiston, Idaho
    Posts
    28,549
    You can go to Woodworkers Hardware's web site and down load the instructions.

    The tolerances are tight and try to make it spot on. I have, when necessary, shimmed using washers to get the needed clearances if the drawer is too small.
    Ken

    So much to learn, so little time.....

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Hatfield, AR
    Posts
    1,170
    I minus 1 1/16 always. If something happens to go haywire, I can always slide a shim in to push the cabinet guide towards the box. Some houses' walls are so out of wack around here, it's very difficult to get a cabinet installed without racking of the drawers. Shim shim shimmery.
    -Lud

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •