bandsaw tension guidelines

[Mike Kees]

I just got a blade tension gauge,so now I am trying to figure out what the tension should be for different blade widths.1/4'',3/8'' both.025 thick and 3/4 '' ,.032 thick blades. Just looking for general tension ranges,( my blade stock is lenox if that makes a difference). Thanks for any help, Mike.

[David Kumm]

You will find what works the best for each blade and your saw. I run 25-30,000 on most blades from 3/16-1". My old saws will handle that tension but not all will. Too much can cause tracking problems and bottoming out the spring can lead to breakage. Be sure that you load the gauge and also be sure you go past your tension point and release back down to insure the spring is not fully compressed. Dave

[Ben Rivel]

Shouldnt that information be listed on the blade manufacturers website?

[Chris Hachet]

There will also be a little bit of trail and error in finding a sweet spot with any blade/saw combo in my experience. You will know from the cut what needs to be done to tune the saw.

[Mike Kees]

Ben, I looked on lenox's website and could not find the tension info, hence my post ,Mike.

[Ben Rivel]

Ben, I looked on lenox's website and could not find the tension info, hence my post ,Mike.

Well that sucks. Guess Im sitting in the same boat then as I just bought a Starrett 682EMZ and was hoping to use Lenox's recommended settings to get the proper values.

[John K Jordan]

In his bandsaw book Lonnie Bird recommends 15,000-20,000 psi for carbon steel blades and 25,000-30,000 for bimetal blades. This FWW article explains about tension and why higher tension is sometimes useful:
http://www.finewoodworking.com/2012/...-blade-tension

I generally tension between 15,000 and 25,000 on my 18" Rikon saw. The tension meter measures the linear stretch of the blade so thick, thin, narrow, wide blades made of steel all stretch the same. However, the actual pulling force for larger blades can be MUCH higher for the same tension, the reason properly tensioning wide blades on smaller saws can over-stress a smaller or less robust saw. Tension is pounds per square inch and a larger blade has a larger cross sectional area. At least this is the way I understand it to work.

From the article link above: "All blades, regardless of width, require the same amount of tension for maximum beam strength. The variable factor is the amount of pulling force needed. For example, it takes approximately 200 lb. of force pulling on a 1/4-in.-wide by 0.025-in.-thick blade to create 25,000 psi of tension. Conversely, a 3/4-in.-wide by 0.032-in.-thick blade will require approximately 800 lb. of force to create the same 25,000 psi of tension."

Years ago I bent the tensioning bracket in my 14" Delta bandsaw by tensioning blades that were too big and had to replace it (I got a stronger one from Iturra Design).

JKJ

[Mike Kees]

John thank you for taking the time to post this reply. I read the article from FWW,that was the kind of info I was looking for. Thanks again,Mike.

[John K Jordan]

John thank you for taking the time to post this reply. I read the article from FWW,that was the kind of info I was looking for. Thanks again,Mike.

I'm glad it was useful. I like Lonnie's bandsaw book a bit more than even Duginski's, although both are good.

Since you have a bandsaw tension gauge you are one step past many bandsaw users with the guessing, trial-and-error, plucking and fluttering, methods I used before I sprung for the gauge. I've been using a gauge (Starrett) for years. I don't always use the exact recommended tension but with the gauge I can at least measure what I have found works and get consistency between blades.

I use my Rikon mostly for green and dry wood processing for turning - often up to the 12" thick capacity of my saw. I also used the gauge to check my Woodmizer and metal-cutting bandsaws. The Woodmizer uses a BIG blade - it takes almost all I've got to tension it.

JKJ

[lowell holmes]

How to set tension on a band saw keeps coming up.

I used to worry about tension gauges and such, but I've been using the "flutter" method.

Google "flutter method bandsaw". Try the method as instructed in one of the sites, it works!

[Van Huskey]

How to set tension on a band saw keeps coming up.

I used to worry about tension gauges and such, but I've been using the "flutter" method.

Google "flutter method bandsaw". Try the method as instructed in one of the sites, it works!

The two major issues with the flutter method is it is not very repeatable and it (the way most people apply it) leaves the blade significantly under tensioned compared to the manufacturer's recommendations and yes, like a passenger car tire inflated to 20psi it will likely get you from point A to point B but it will not be operating at peak efficiency.

I have grown weary of recommending proper bandsaw blade tension, I have come to the conclusion that most people use a bandsaw as a blunt instrument, more a reciprocating saw than a circular saw and thus the quality of cut is not of primary concern.



General recommendations are carbon and spring steel (like the Woodslicer) need 15k-17k to operate correctly, much more than 20k psi and they start to go wonky, you can get away with 8-10k psi on 14" cast saws since thats about all they can muster on a 1/2" blade.

Bi-metal and carbide toothed blades like between 25k and 32k psi, the Lenox Tri-master and Woodmaster CT seem to like right at 30K and the Laguna Resaw King works its best in the 26k-27k range. They all start acting weird above 35k psi but not a lot of saws will get this high on resaw width blades.

I think much of the lack of attention to tension is a result of the fact that (significant numbers of) hobbyists owning saws that have significant tension capabilities is a relatively new development.

[Robert Engel]

I've heard blades can be set by using a tuner. Anyone ever done that?

[lowell holmes]

[QUOTE=Van Huskey;2658730]The two major issues with the flutter method is it is not very repeatable and it (the way most people apply it) leaves the blade significantly under tensioned compared to the manufacturer's recommendations and yes, like a passenger car tire inflated to 20psi it will likely get you from point A to point B but it will not be operating at peak efficiency.

I have grown weary of recommending proper bandsaw blade tension, I have come to the conclusion that most people use a bandsaw as a blunt instrument, more a reciprocating saw than a circular saw and thus the quality of cut is not of primary concern."


I will likely pass a jointer hand plane over any rip cut I make, whether the cut was made on a band saw or a table saw. My table saw has a 10" Forrest blade, so you know I get good cuts.
I don't have a band saw tension issue.

Like the old saying "Different strokes for different folks."

[Van Huskey]

I've heard blades can be set by using a tuner. Anyone ever done that?

It has been discussed BUT in order to know what "pitch" to tension the blade to you need a base line for your saw and a particular blade, if you have a accurate baseline measurement just note where the tension indicator on your saw is and record it for that blade. If your saw does not have a tension indicator you could use it once a baseline is determined but the precision and repeatability will hinge on the accuracy of the instrument (ear) you use.

[Van Huskey]

I don't have a band saw tension issue.

[/QUOTE]

While it does not concern you it is very likely your bandsaw is not working in a way that gives you the best cut for the money you have invested in it, if that is OK for you then fine. I think it is important in a tension discussion to point out the flutter method is both low on repeatability and precision and is a poor way to produce accurate and repeatable results. If you not concerned about getting the best cut or the most life out of a blade then accurate tension is unnecessary.