Can leather dry out?

[David Ragan]

Hi,

My first post about leather.

This double shoulder arrived from Tandy Leather this week, and is destined to make some strops, etc.


So, I recalled that a small similar piece of scrap leather my cobbler gave me, sort of became somewhat distorted and dry after a few weeks in my shop.

A small corner of this new piece is looking slightly weird and starting to dry(?).

I keep my rawhide hammers fresh w Camellia oil---is that what I should do here? Just a light spray on the hair side? If so, will that interfere w any contact cement/water based adhesive later?

Thanks

[Bert Kemp]

I have a couple of single shoulders laying flat here for a couple months, I cut off pieces as I need them. They seem to be fine. After I use them I sheen them. I've made key fobs from Veg tan and sheen them and there good for years. I don't think I'd put anything on the raw leather till you use it and finish it. I live in AZ very dry area and leather seem to stay ok not dry out.

[David Ragan]

I have a couple of single shoulders laying flat here for a couple months, I cut off pieces as I need them. They seem to be fine. After I use them I sheen them. I've made key fobs from Veg tan and sheen them and there good for years. I don't think I'd put anything on the raw leather till you use it and finish it. I live in AZ very dry area and leather seem to stay ok not dry out.

thanks Bert-Sheen?

Am not sure how the piece is tanned......

[Bert Kemp]

If you got it from tandy and its a dbl shoulder pretty sure its Veg tanned . Tandy sell super sheen. It will put a protective finish on the leather. Maker sure you do all your dying before you sheen then engrave after you sheen then sheen again.
Whay are you doing with the leather?

thanks Bert-Sheen?

Am not sure how the piece is tanned......

[Mike Null]

I have vegetable tanned cowhide that is over 20 years old and none of it has dried out. Before I engrave it I apply a neutral paste wax which has served me exceedingly well. It allows me to clean the smoke residue without affecting the look of the piece. After cleaning I re-apply wax.

I made a table and dyed the leather after I had glued it to the surface, then I waxed it and it also served very well.

[Bob Davis - Sturgis SD]

I store quite a bit of raw leather and don't treat it with anything. I'm in the habit of masking it before laser cutting the leather. Then we stamp it, color, and use sheen and conditioner. We've learned there's quite a few steps involved when using leather.

Bob

[Jim Coffee]

Among other things I build hand cranked street organs. In the process I've learned a bit about leather (not a lot...just a tiny bit). For example...I've learned that leather bellows (such as are used by blacksmiths, and player pianos, and organs, and other things) have leather in the inside that is used as valves. The bellows are sealed and the valves are never touched after the bellows are sealed shut. They function for many decades. As I create my organs I do allow for a bit of expansion/contraction in the leather (the way that the valves are engineered) and I do expect them to function 'forever'. And a side note to this whole thought...I purchase my leather from a company called Columbia Organ. One of the types of leather that they sell is called a pneumatic leather. The tanning process used is such that it preserves the airtight integrity of the leather.

[David Ragan]

thanks, guys. I will not worry about it for now.

Had not considered the wax route.

Most of what I'll be doing is crude by you-alls standards, I'm sure.

I have another question, though for a new thread.