Where do you buy your wood screws?

[Robert Engel]

I've always had good luck with McFeeleys. Their square drive screws really hold well to the bit. You buy direct from them.

I, too, absolutely HATE most of the screws at HD mainly because the bits are too wobbly or the threads strip out too easily.

I recently bought some composite decking screws which were totally useless until I ground the end of the bit flat. WHY why why do they make screws like that?

Of all of them, I think Spax is the best and I use them all the time.

For screws under 2" long, I think the wood screws HD sells are ok.

[Rich Konopka]

McFeely's are the best. Even SWBO uses them to notice the difference and swears by them.

[roger wiegand]

For restoration work I scrounge yard sales and auctions for NOS pre-wwII stock. I haven't found any source of new screws that looks remotely appropriate-- nothing worse than seeing phillips head screws in an100 year old piano or organ. Like the Spax or GRK from the borg for general construction. Try to avoid metal fasteners whenever possible in my woodworking projects.

[Roger Feeley]

I need to replenish some of my square drive screws. The McFeeleys site says there is some sort of dry lube on their unplated screws. Do they go in ok? Just looking at the images, it appears that plated screws might go in a little smoother. Of course I can always use a bit of paraffin..

[michael langman]

Grattan Fasteners is a good place to buy hardware of most types.

[Ken Kortge]

I need to replenish some of my square drive screws. The McFeeleys site says there is some sort of dry lube on their unplated screws. Do they go in ok? Just looking at the images, it appears that plated screws might go in a little smoother. Of course I can always use a bit of paraffin..

I think of zinc plating as being for corrosion resistance, not so much for lubrication. I don't know if the zinc plating has lower friction than the uncoated smooth steel - maybe.

McFeeleys says that the dry-lube is indeed purely for lubrication, and that it provides NO corrosion resistance.

For the most part, if the project will never be outdoors, then I'll use the dry-lube screws (they drive just fine), and if the project might be outdoors, then I'll use the NoCorRode Plus epoxy coated screws. For replacing corroded trailer screws I'll use stainless steel.

So far I've not really had a need for the zinc plated screws - yellow or clear. There was a day when I might try to use zinc coated hardware outside, but it almost always rusted eventually. No more.

[Ken Kortge]

Lately I find myself intruqued by the idea of using Torx drive screws - as opposed to the square drive screws, but so far I'm sticking with McFeeley's square drive screws. Most of my bolts, nuts, washers, ... come from the local Ace Hardware. I appreciate the earlier comment about going to the Borg store only to find a packet of 5 bolts for way to much, and a packet of 8 nuts (never the same count on the two packets) for even more.

[Mike Manning]

Lately I find myself intruqued by the idea of using Torx drive screws - as opposed to the square drive screws, ...

Why? Is one better than the other?

I only recently tried the Torx head on a deck screw and it certainly seemed solid, the same with a square head I tightened recently. I think I'm going to start using one or the other exclusively. I too am tired of the cheap phillips head screws from the big box stores stripping at the least bit of resistance or torque.

[John LoDico]

When I was building a lumberyard skiff, I bought stainless steel screws from Marsh Fasteners and Grainger.

[Sam Murdoch]

I have come to prefer torque over all others because they (the ones I mentioned in my 1st post - I'm sure there are other brands equally as good) just don't ever fail - even after driving and removing and redriving multiple times. I have taken things apart - out door construction - after several years of weathering and the screws still come out effortlessly. I could likely reuse them but in that case I generally do not.

The square drives require that I change out the driver tip often. I mostly use an impact driver these days - for everything including cabinetry and furniture type projects - with the impact force set differently as necessary. The square drive tips distort enough that they too frequently remain attached to the screws. Never have that happen with the TQS.

The TQS (my abbreviation) are just so dependable in all respects.

AND to John LoDico's post about stainless screws - they are certainly NOT ALL CREATED EQUAL. We could have another thread just to determine which of these are the best to use.

[Mike Manning]

Thanks Sam and also to everyone for the good feedback. I'm gonna go Torx head from McFeeley's for my next few boxes of screws and see how they perform.

[Lee Schierer]

No matter where you buy your screws, get in the habit of dragging the threads of any wood screw across a block of bees wax (not paraffin or soap) before driving the screw. The bees wax will lubricate the screw as it is driven and will require far less torque to drive it in than will an non-lubricated screw. For brass screws always thread the hole with a steel wood screw first and you won't break any brass screws. Soap will draw moisture, stain your wood and may corrode screws. Paraffin doesn't adhere well to the screw and basically just falls off.

[John LoDico]

Can't argue with you about stainless steel screws. I used square head ones form Marsh -- 316 stainless I think. They were great (but expensive). For my woodworking I've been using the box store brand mentioned at the top. All I can say there is pilot hole, pilot hole, pilot hole.

[Garth Almgren]

My local Ace has an amazing selection of hardware (nuts, bolts, washers, etc.) considering the small size of their store, but their wood screws are a little pricey. The Lowe's 6 miles away has 5# boxes of wood screws that appear to be the same quality as the ones from Ace for 3-4 dollars less per box.
We also have a local lumber store that has one of those old fashioned "grab a handful" lazy suzan bins full of screws and nails, but I haven't actually priced them out. It usually takes me a long time to go through a 5# box.

[Davis Young]

In my opinion Torx is easier to engage than square drive, especially when the head is not visible, as anyone who has had to back out a square drive pocket screw can attest. Spax is my go-to choice and they have some Torx heads as well as combo (square and phillips) drive. I order them from McFeely's if I have enough advance notice, but usually I keep an assortment on hand. Home Depot has a limited selection when I'm in a pinch. For those who live by a Menard's, they have a better selection.