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Thread: Minimax FS41 Classic v. Hammer A3-41 v. Minimax FS41 Elite

  1. #16
    My leaning is toward the MM Elite, but am having an issue with the helical thing. Probably nonsense but that's really all I know.

    Anyhow, can you send me a pic of the mechanical digital thing? It's simply a readout of the planer level correct? Like what you'd get with the upgraded handle on the Hammers?

    I need to put the machine with the back of it against a wall. If you don't mind, can you tell me the depth it would take to do so assuming you moved the fence or whatever else is reasonably easy to adjust/remove after you're done using it? Would you be willing to send me a couple of pics showing how/what would be adjusted to minimize the depth. I have about 32-35" to store it when not in use. Many thanks.

  2. #17
    FS 41 Elite planer gauge.jpgHere's the planer gauge. Low tech but very accurate. If you move the fence forward, the machine depth is 28", so you would be fine. Note that it weighs 1000 pounds, so moving it around requires some serious casters.

  3. #18
    i would still use a dro just for the repeatability of it. i almost added a stepper motor to my fs41 but i found a motor coupler from 16mm - > 1/2'' then just chucked in a electric drill worked fabulously i got it from here http://www.dumpstercnc.com/couplers.html works like perfection with a cheap harbor fright drill if your like me at all i also took the drill apart and and made the power switch on a wall out of a fan controller and a double pole switch for reverse so i didn't have to lean over at all to move it besides to lock/unlock the table $85 for that + $95 for the dro vs $3500.

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brad Lard View Post

    1. Cutterhead - i'm torn between the helix Hammer and the 3 or 4 knife Tersa system on the MM. . Having said all of that, it seems that the Helix is the new standard??? I'm on my second Hammer J/P. In both cases I have purchased the Hammer straight knife head. The knives last a long time in hobby use. That said the carbide insert head produces half the sound level, and stays sharp 10 to 20 times as long as the knives. The chips are also more compact. It's the only MAN rated carbide head I've seen which is a nice safety addition.

    2. Fit/Finish - from what I've read, it seems people tend to believe that the fit/finish is higher on the MM and I assume?? higher on the Elite than the Classic, but again I don't know. I know you can get a lemon with anything but I'd like to steer the other direction if there's a clear path. It may be, however I have no complaints with the Hammer and I'm a fussy person.

    3. Fence - Seems like folks have complained over the Hammer fence (is deflection the issue?) compared to the (sturdier?) MM fence. The center mounted Elite fence sure looks nice though i wonder how it will push against the wall when stored. I assume I can just move it to the front of the J/P leaving the back (mostly) flat against the wall. Is there a clear winner here? Probably not, the fence isn't an issue on the Hammer, works well.

    4. Tables/Beds - the Hammer lifts up as a single bed as does the FS41 Elite. The FS41 Classic raises up as two beds. Does it really matter to a hobbyist?No, not at all

    5. Blade guard - the Hammer has the Euro version standard which I would like to have, so that adds to the price of either MM which uses the pork chop style which I've seen a number of complaints. Don't know the price but seems like I saw that the MM euro was $200~I really like the Euro guard, even better is the Comfort guard which snaps in half to reduce projection

    6. Motor - seems to be about the same for 1 phase which is what I'll get. Any material difference here?No, both have more power than you'll need

    7. Mobility - the MMs come with a mobility package (mounts to side of body) while I have to pay for the mobility on the Hammer which mounts to the front. Are these worth having as this machine will need to be pushed against a garage wall when not in use. Seems the Hammer version mounts on the front would be nice since it is pushed against a wall. Or should I just plan on buying an after market base?I made my own mobility kit as the Hammer kit moved in the wrong plane for me. The semi-live skid and tow bar design is really good for these machines, easy to move and they don't move once you put them down.

    8. Planer Digital display - the MM elite comes with a "mechanical digital" display but I am not sure what that means. Can't find a picture or video either. The MM 41 classic doesn't come with any digital display nor is it an option. The Hammer can be purchased which I've read is a must.Suggest you buy the metric version as the machine obviously is metric. The display is accurate to 0.01mm, I can repeat a planing dimension without adjustment or measurement. The metric version is2mm per revolution, which is really nice, half a rotation is 1mm etc. the imperial gauge is 0.079 inch/revolution.

    9.Price - I think I've gotten ok pricing, though on the Hammer I haven't been able to get a "discount" beyond the "sale" price on their website. The MM 41 classic is of course the cheapest, with the Hammer (with the spiral head) being about $400 more than than the MM 41. The MM Elite (which has the 4 head Tersa and about 8" more in bed length and a 2 post planer bed) adds about $1,100 over the Hammer, or $1,500 over the MM FS41.

    Price includes shipping for the Hammer but doesn't for the MM as it is about a 2.5 hour drive to Atlanta to pick that up. not sure if that's a wise idea given the weight (shipping is about $350).

    Thanks and sorry for the long post.
    You're welcome..........Regards, Rod.

  5. #20
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    It is easy to put a Proscale Digital on most machines. Buy the best you can afford. Look closely at castings, grinding of tables and motor rating- continuous or intermittent. Tersa would be my choice. Spiral is nice I like Tersa. Dave

  6. #21
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Len Rosenberg View Post
    FS 41 Elite planer gauge.jpgHere's the planer gauge. Low tech but very accurate. If you move the fence forward, the machine depth is 28", so you would be fine. Note that it weighs 1000 pounds, so moving it around requires some serious casters.
    Same thing I have on my SCM planer, has not been wrong in twenty years. I have the Tersa head so it never changes. No electronics to worry about, big plus in my book.

    Tersa VS spiral, I have both and prefer the Tersa FWIW. One big plus for me is I always work from rough stock and I can change knives in a couple of minutes to put a lesser set in for the cleanup pass if I am concerned about the wood being dirty.

  7. #22
    David, do you mind posting a pic of this? I'm apparently a visual learner. Tks

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    Sam's contact info:

    http://www.samantics2.com/home.html

    On the guard subject...my FS350 originally came with the "pork chop" and I truly disliked it. I prefer wider lumber and the "pork chop swinging in the breeze wasn't comfortable for me. I bit the bullet and bought a Euro guard and couldn't be happier.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Lexington, KY
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    I have an FS30, pushed up against a wall and didn't like the little anti-deflection rod sticking out the back. I took it off, and put a little $30 magnet with an on/off switch from Magnajig (I think). I set the fence, then move the magnet up against the backside of the fence, flip the switch to on, and it's locked in. This has the added benefit of being done at the end of the fence, so I get even more resistance vs. setting it in the middle.

    Not sure if you realize, but you don't have to take the fence off when raising the tables. Just slide the fence all the way forward and lock it down, then lift away. Doing this increases the required wall clearance though. Mine probably sits 12-14in off the wall...something like that.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
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    New Hampshire, USA
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    Hi Brad
    Here is a picture of the dolly. Its just 2 layers of 3/4 plywood with casters bolted to it. It makes it very easy to move around, but also raises the machine a few inches which may or may not be to your liking. I used the clips that attached the machine to the pallet for shipping to connect it to the dolly, so there is no sliding around.
    Thanks
    Scott

    IMG_1342.JPG

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brad Lard View Post
    Brian, thanks for the reply.

    I suspect you're right on the classic v elite, but I've already got a drum sander . From what I've been able to tell, the Elite gets you a longer bed (8"), center mounted heavy duty fence, 4 knives rather than 3, a digital readout, 2 pillar post for planer bed, larger planer bed, 2 speeds. Hard to know whether that's all worth $1,500. I do wonder whether the quality of fit/finish is any better?

    How would I go about contacting Sam?

    Question I have on the fence. For your FS41, how close can you push the planer against the wall, without disassembling or moving fence, etc.? If the body/cabinet can't get against wall without moving something, what is it you have to do? Move fence forward and remove that rod you're talking about? How deep is the body with whatever sticking out after moving fence forward, etc. I won't have chop to deal with?

    I'm assuming for the Elite, you'd have to move the fence forward to move the rod out of the way to store against a wall.

    On delivery, what method did you use to get the pallet/JP off the trailer and then off the pallet onto ground and onto your mobile base? I really don't have a problem driving to Atlanta but am concerned about getting 1,000lbs off a trailer without it ending up on top of me.

    Brad,

    The overall depth of the FS41 Classic with the fence all the way back and the rear cutter guard sticking out (i.e. the machine at its deepest) is about 36". The fence support rod rotates and doesn't add anything to the depth of the machine.

    For my SC4 Elite TS, which weighs about 1500 lbs, I used a come-along and tow chain from HD to drag the pallet off of the trailer. Once on the floor of my shop, I cut away the pallet until I could get a pallet jack under the table saw. After that, it was a piece of cake to position it where I wanted it.

    For the FS41, which was delivered by FedEx, it was (barely) able to fit on the lift gate, so getting it to the ground wasn't too bad. Next, I used a lever to lift the machine slightly so I could slide the mobile base parts under the legs, then built the base under the machine. A long, gradual, ramp made out of 2x4s and ply allowed me to roll it off the pallet onto the floor.

    A pallet jack might be able to get a J/P pallet off of the trailer. I would have a few friends for help with this since the trailer ramp is likely to be relatively steep and the J/P will be top-heavy. I couldn't do this with the TS because the pallet was way too long. My vote would be to drag it off like I did with my TS, an inch or two at a time.

    Patience, planning, and simple machines (levers, inclined planes, etc.) can accomplish a lot.

    Best of luck.


  12. #27
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Boulder, CO
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    198
    This is an awesome thread. Thanks so much.

    Speaking of depth, can somebody post a pic of the back of the FS41/30 classic? I'm planning on buying one of these two bad boys this summer and can't actually shove the thing against a wall so I'm worried about continually hip checking whatever sticks out the back of the machine on the MM. The Hammer seems to mainly have the blade guard plate (which I'm assumign you can get to not stick out if you shove the fence forward?)

    What sticks out the back of the MM? Is it just the rod?

  13. #28
    Well, thanks to everyone for the posts especially the referral to Sam Blasco. He was extremely helpful and I would highly recommend him for the Minimax line. I ended up going with the FS41 Elite and actually drove to Atlanta to pick it up from SCM warehouse this morning. While getting it in the shop and off the pallet was not exactly easy, I did manage with the help of a couple of steel pipes inserted under the pallet and lifting up on the front of the trailer. Pallet went sliding right off the trailer without even pushing. Then used an engine hoist to lift the JPup and pull the pallet out. Now to clean the cosmolene off and get a 30A service to it. Again thanks for all the info

  14. #29
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    Good for you!

  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Len Rosenberg View Post
    FS 41 Elite planer gauge.jpgHere's the planer gauge. Low tech but very accurate.
    +1 ... on my Knapp Planer and it has remained accurate for years. Works great with a digital vernier. As Larry mentioned repeatability is partially a function of having Tersa or other (I have Leitz) indexed knives.
    "the mechanic that would perfect his work must first sharpen his tools.” Confucius

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