Tapered Legs on a sliding table saw?

[Michael Koons]

Folks, taking the next step with slider and want to use it to make 4 sided tapers on table legs and was wondering if anyone else did this. I haven't found very much material on this as of yet.

Obviously, I could use the rip fence and a traditional tapering jig but wanted to try and use the slider instead. Has anyone done this with their sliders? If so, what's the best method you've used for 4 sided tapers?

Any thoughts and advice would be greatly appreciated.

Mike

[James Zhu]

You can use a Fritz and Franz jig to cut the leg on the sliding table.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q0PyFjtSHrE&t=586s

[Mark Wooden]

Clamp a piece of 3/4 ply to your slider table with at least 1/2" past the blade to cut a reference edge. The piece should be about a foot longer than the leg you want to cut.Cut the edge and leave it clamped. Use that cut edge as your reference edge to lay out your taper and screw blocking down to set your leg blanks against. I use toggle clamps to hold the blanks in place but other clamping methods work too.
Remember to re set the angle after the first two adjacent tapers are cut.

This also works as a jig to clamp the leg blanks to and push it through the saw using the rip fence.

[John Lankers]

What James says, if I could have only one jig in my shop it would be Fritz and Franz. I use it for ripping, straight lining, tapered cuts, holding small and odd sized pieces, it replaces the rip fence completely.

[jack forsberg]

Here is what I made for my old slider . https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Zhge9O_pedU

[Jim Becker]

I use a jig that fastens on the slider wagon...very similar to one you would use on a North American cabinet saw, but "reversed" because it's on the opposite side of the blade. It actually works better because everything can be clamped down tight and the cut is "glue line" with no variation as can happen when you run a jig along a fence with your hand.

There are a great many situations where jigging up on the wagon is the way to go because of the stability and repeatability it brings. Some jigs are worth making permanent versions of and some of them are project specific and temporary.

[Brian W Smith]

Our mid stroke slider is certainly up to the challenge accuracy wise....pretty much a no brainer.

But,we use the resaw BS with an adj ,dedicated fixture.It's a time thing.It's faster from a production standpoint to not tie up the slider.One more example of how work flow varies from one shop,to another.This also,was the reasoning for building an XY vertical panel saw.Sheets get broke down on the XY,then go to the slider.Just sayin.

Also,stupid high accuracy on the resaw is a requirement,but that's always a good thing ��.

[Bill Adamsen]

Here is what I made for my old slider . https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Zhge9O_pedU

Jack - that is one beautiful saw!

[Michael Koons]

Thanks all for the reply. I think for repeatability and accuracy purposes, I'm going to go with Jim's suggestion of building the jig and mounting it on the slider. I'll probably build the base a little wider so it can sit against the crosscut fence easily. There is a pretty simple jig in FWW #229, I'll probably base it off of that.

[David M Peters]

Here's a method to make a set of tapered legs on a slider without a separate jig, only the features already on your sliding table.