Need joinery suggestion

[Royce Meritt]

I am building a fishing rod case for a friend. Think a rectangular "box" about 6" High X 8" Deep X 80" Long. Glued up into the box shape, then cut apart to make the top and bottom. I need suggestions for the best joint to use on the corners. I would love to use box joints but because the sides of the case are 80" long, I really can't cut the fingers.

Any thoughts? Lock Miter? Locking dado? Regular dado joint with triangular glue blocks inside? Thanks.

Royce

[Brian W Smith]

Only will say,don't let long side "box joints" stop you if that's what you want.It ain't a problem,it's an opportunity.Many ways to skin that cat.Good luck with your project,BW

[Malcolm McLeod]

I'd probably dovetail the front/back to the ends. On a dovetail jig, the pin board is clamped horizontally, so the 80" length is easily manageable. Then cut the tails into the ends.

This may be contrary to traditional case building (i.e. a blanket chest), but should work if I am correct in an assumption: The case won't be carried by the 'ends'. If you put a carry handle on the front panel and it has the pins cut into that panel, the orientation of the joint is such that both glue and the pin's wedge resist pull out. Like a wide, shallow drawer, where you put the load on the front panel - - and it gets pins.

Edit: Should have specified on a jig setup for Half-Blind Dove-Tails, the pin board is horizontal.

[Royce Meritt]

I'd probably dovetail the front/back to the ends. On a dovetail jig, the pin board is clamped horizontally, so the 80" length is easily manageable. Then cut the tails into the ends.

This may be contrary to traditional case building (i.e. a blanket chest), but should work if I am correct in an assumption: The case won't be carried by the 'ends'. If you put a carry handle on the front panel and it has the pins cut into that panel, the orientation of the joint is such that both glue and the pin's wedge resist pull out. Like a wide, shallow drawer, where you put the load on the front panel - - and it gets pins.

Edit: Should have specified on a jig setup for Half-Blind Dove-Tails, the pin board is horizontal.

Thanks for your thoughts. I was considering dovetails. My only concern was that I intended to build the entire "box" then, essentially, cut it in half to make the top and bottom. If I do this, I will be cutting through and removing part of one dovetail.

[Malcolm McLeod]

Thanks for your thoughts. I was considering dovetails. My only concern was that I intended to build the entire "box" then, essentially, cut it in half to make the top and bottom. If I do this, I will be cutting through and removing part of one dovetail.

I have a Leigh that allows variable spacing, so its easy to include allowance for the saw kerf in the layout, regardless of where you want to 'split' the box. I realize this may not be available option, but wanted to throw it out there.

A pity you're not closer, as I will never wear my jig out. ...Yell if you move to Texas.

[andy bessette]

...I intended to build the entire "box" then, essentially, cut it in half to make the top and bottom. If I do this, I will be cutting through and removing part of one dovetail.

Use a thin kerf blade or Japanese saw.

[Jeff Bartley]

Royce,
I'll second the dovetail recommendation with one caveat: cut them by hand so you easily account for the wood lost by the kerf of cutting the top off the box.
If you've never cut them by hand this is a perfect opportunity!

[Lee Schierer]

I would use a locking rabbet joint for the corners. Although a bit smaller than what you are planning, this box was mad as one piece and the lid was separated with a saw cut. The sides of the box are about 3/8" thick. I've also made trays and boxes with thinner sides using the same joint. You can see the joint details in the photo.
maplebox.jpg
For a box as long as you are planning I would use plywood for the top and bottom and glue the perimeter to the sides and ends, instead of using solid wood.

[pat warner]

Nearly 7' long! I suspect, even with skinny wood and loaded, the box will weigh 20+ pounds. Maybe it needs wheels!
I'd make the thing with SS joint connector bolts. A simple connection; will not come apart. And the bolts could be anywhere your drill press will allow.
Dovetails & box joints are great too; you may have to use resorcinol (a water proof joint).
With stainless hardware you can get it wet, it won't rust. You have to use hardware anyway.