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Thread: Patio table finish

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Huntingdon, Quebec
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    24

    Patio table finish

    I'm building a patio table. The base is cedar painted white. The table top is white oak. What finish would be best for outdoors? It will be under a roof and will get 2-3 hours of sunlight a day. Thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,850
    In general, a penetrating, non-film finish is going to be a better solution over time for something outdoors because it's easier to maintain. There are products from Sikens, Pentofin, (spelling suspect... ) etc., that might be considered.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Huntingdon, Quebec
    Posts
    24
    thanks. I was just looking at the penofin blue label. And there's a dealer close to my house. Do you have an opinion on the blue label vs the marine finish?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Deep South
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    3,970
    I will share with you my experience. Several years ago, I built some Adirondack chairs to go under our North facing front porch. I used cypress. The appearance turned out so nice that I decided to try a clear finish. I used a "spar" varnish from one of the big box stores. Even though the chairs were about 90% shaded and protected from all but the most hard blowing rains, the finish started to crack and peel and mildew started growing within a year. In my frustration, I sanded off the old finish and painted them with acrylic latex paint. They have looked great now for maybe 6 years in the same location. Since then, I have carved a number of cabin and camper signs out of Western Cedar or Eastern Red Cedar and finished them with quality spar varnish from a marine store. This material is waaaaay better than the Minwax crap but the ones that have been out in the weather continuously for a few years still need refinishing. My conclusion is there is no clear film finish that will hold up outside unless it is reworked fairly often. In the future, I plan to try a penetrating finish like Jim mentioned.

  5. #5
    Agree with Art. The oak will still look like oak with paint on it ,it takes a coating of asphalt to disguise it. In the color and light of of nature it's hard for oak to compete without the green leaves.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Kansas City
    Posts
    2,666
    Tim, I made a garden bench with white oak, finished in outdoor oil. It turned black within a year. Its not mold, but appears to be from oxidation and moisture. I understand it is common issue with white oak outdoors. Kind of cool looking black, but probably not what you're looking for. I wetted it in photo so you can see color. I have no other alternative recommendation.
    IMG_1257.jpg

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Huntingdon, Quebec
    Posts
    24
    That black is a pretty cool look, but not what I'm looking for. I think I'll take my chances with the penofin. If it doesn't work out I can always make a new top out of cedar and bring the oak one in.

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