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Thread: Shooting Board Questions

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Daniels View Post
    Actually- if anyone just so happens to be sitting on detailed plans of a Vogt, that even a caveman (more thug like than a Neanderthal) like me can follow, well that'd be great.
    The more paint by numbers it is? The better.
    Peter, the original ramped Voigt boards were largely copies from my website. I built these some years before he did, and he acknowledged this when he started out.

    You do not need specs for size - make it whatever you want. The ramp is 5 degrees. There are all the details you need in the pics here and on my website. The art of woodworking is to build without painting by numbers.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  2. #32
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    Originally Posted by Malcolm Schweizer
    I also put T-Track on mine with clamps that hold the piece in place, and I absolutely love that. No chance of the board moving while cutting. Also I can clamp in a miter block in whatever angle or a donkey ear for various different miters. It's very versatile.
    When using my shooting board the work piece is usually held by hand and fed into the plane as needed.

    If the work is clamped, does one have to unclamp and move the piece, how does the cut continue?

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  3. #33
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    I have a Paul Sellers design under my bench (I store things there). I haven't used it recently.

  4. #34
    Malcom, you said,

    "I also put T-Track on mine with clamps that hold the piece in place, and I absolutely love that."

    Can you post a picture of this? I'm having trouble picturing this. When I'm shooting, I have to continuously feed the piece against the sole of the plane with each pass, so a clamp would not work here. Is the clamp for the accessories?






  5. #35
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
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    Colorado Rocky Mountains.
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    Derek-
    Your site has been extremely helpful over the years. And the above links to "shooting for perfection" were also great.
    I've narrowed it all down and will start sawing and chopping this eve after work.
    Normally I'll see some old tool on there which will cartwheel me down the Google/YouTube rabbit hole of knowledge. Wait, I meant Knowledge?
    Usually I walk away with more than I came in with.

    Think I can upload photos now. Doubt you'll see anything impressive but when I have something to show, you'll know it.

    -Pete

  6. #36
    The compliment is well earned.

    You and Rob Lee are two of the biggest reasons why I became a huge Lee Valley fan.
    While some things are nicer from Lie Nielson (the 113 plane, which is discontinued), I really like the mixture of fun, seriousness and innovation that you guys both show.
    Plus, you both come off as good guys.

    Seriously, you can take a pile of scrap wood and a handful of cheap hardware from Bunnings and turn it into something that'll fit in a Lie Nielson show.


    Quote Originally Posted by Derek Cohen View Post
    Thanks for the compliment, Matt.

    I once made a bunch of these shooting boards in MDF for a Lie Nielsen Handtool Event (the plans are on the LN website). My modification was to edge the runway with hardwood and groove the inside against dust ...



    I later added a side fence to guide the plane. This is a HUGE upgrade ...



    The other end of the spectrum is a Jarrah ramped shooting board sporting a low angle strike block plane ...




    There are lots of variations or add-ons available. Here is a donkey's ear for mitres ...




    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  7. #37
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    When sitting comfortably in front of a computer some things that are second nature in the shop do not come to mind.

    One shooting board accessory that almost every shooting board can use is a simple piece made up of the same material as the base and the deck. This then can be used as a support for any long pieces being worked to help hold it for a square cut.

    This came to me today while putting my shooting board and its accessory on the bench to shoot some 4' long pieces.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  8. #38
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    Sep 2015
    Location
    Colorado Rocky Mountains.
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    Here's my current hurdle that I'm trying to solve.
    How's a guy with no power tools make a pair of perfectly matched 5d ramps to elevate and angle the top sheet?
    Ripping a straight line is hard enough.
    Ripping it slightly across the grain has proven impossible.

    My current plan is to get them close with a saw, then plane that last 1/8th down to mostly identical ramps.
    Any clever ideas on how to produce these?

    My second consideration is to make several (maybe two?) uprights that go under the top sheet to the same effect of the ramps.

    Any simple clever ideas?

  9. #39
    I would cut them close with a hand saw.

    Then I would gang the two pieces together using some kind of registaration board on the non planed side. I would maybe use double sided tape to hold them to this board then clamp everything in my vise and plane away. This will make sure the two pieces are identical.

    I might clamp a additonal stop along the line so my plane has a guide or refernce point as you get close? Probably not though.

  10. #40
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    Feb 2004
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Daniels View Post
    Here's my current hurdle that I'm trying to solve.
    How's a guy with no power tools make a pair of perfectly matched 5d ramps to elevate and angle the top sheet?
    Ripping a straight line is hard enough.
    Ripping it slightly across the grain has proven impossible.

    My current plan is to get them close with a saw, then plane that last 1/8th down to mostly identical ramps.
    Any clever ideas on how to produce these?

    My second consideration is to make several (maybe two?) uprights that go under the top sheet to the same effect of the ramps.

    Any simple clever ideas?
    This is an extract from a build on my website:


    .... the method I used to joint two thin 1/4" thick panel sections ...



    First step was to lift the board up on a 1/2" thick section of MDF (nice and flat) ...





    A second piece of MDF was laid on top, and then weighted down with bricks (to ensure the edge was flat and parallel to the bench top ..





    A jointer plane was now about to shoot the edge square ..








    Generally I plane the centre to create a spring joint, creating a very slight, almost imperceptible hollow ..





    To glue up, the panel pieces were first work from the back side. Tape was stretched across and used to pull the sections together ..





    The full side was done, with the joint line reinforced to minimise glue running out ...





    Reversing the panel, glue was spread down the join ..





    This could then be opened out, taped together (again with stretched tape), joins levelled with a plastic mallet, and lightly clamped together. Bricks were added to hold everything flat while the glue dries ...





    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  11. #41
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    Sep 2015
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    Derek-
    Those are good tips, especially the little hollow area you use on the edge to be joined. The spring joint. Now- will I remember it when needed?

    I don't see how i'd use your tips to make the 5 degree ramps under the top sheet.

  12. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Daniels View Post
    Derek-
    Those are good tips, especially the little hollow area you use on the edge to be joined. The spring joint. Now- will I remember it when needed?

    I don't see how i'd use your tips to make the 5 degree ramps under the top sheet.
    My math teachers would tell you to remember the good man who dropped a rock on his foot and cried out SOH CAH TOA!

    The sine of 5º is 0.08716 the top sheet or the deck is the H (as in hypotenuse). So if the top sheet is going to be 12" then the formula becomes 12 X 0.08716=1.04592.

    So make the deck (top sheet) 1.04592" above the ramp at the the end of your choice.

    For simplicity sake, the angle doesn't have to be exact. It isn't a magic number as far as I know.

    Also if your shooting board is going to be of a different length, just use a different number in the equation.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  13. #43
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    Sep 2015
    Location
    Colorado Rocky Mountains.
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    The math to determine the 5d slope (give or take) isn't the hard part. It's actually taking a piece of lumber and sawing then planing the ramps. Then making a second to match.
    In the end I might break down and ask a friend to use electricity to help.

    Table saws make short work of such a piece.

  14. #44
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    Perth, Australia
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    Peter, mark off a triangle with 5 degrees at one end (use a protractor - no maths involved). Saw away the waste, then plane to the line. Do both boards together, work with boards longer than needed and cut off what is required at the end.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  15. #45
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    Marina del Rey, Ca
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    You could make 1 thick triangle and then rip it in 2.
    "Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."

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