[OP]
Contributor
I need to make a long, wide groove down the middle of a 8" wide board to accept another 3/4" wide board coming in at right angles (basically making a really long T.)
How do folks do this? Is there a magic Stanley super wide plow plane?
Marking gauge it in and plow out the waste with a chisel?
Plow plane the edges in and then chisel out the middle?
It doesn't need to be pretty, it'll be upside down and hanging off the back of my bench as a tool tray mounted shelf.
Contributor
I might clamp a batten to the 8" wide one to use as a guide and use a shoulder plane to make the groove. There's more than a couple ways to pull this off it you're willing to use some electrons.
edit: Thanks Jim. Forgot the term batten. Duh.
Last edited by Rob Luter; 02-22-2017 at 5:50 PM.
Sharp solves all manner of problems.
Contributor
It would be done in a few minutes with a Stanley #45 or many other plow planes.Originally Posted by Matthew Springer
The Veritas Small Plow Plane can also use a 3/4" blade:
http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/pag...82,43698,74147
In either case you may have to clamp a batten do the work piece to guide the plane if the rods are not long enough. The batten would only need to be in place to get started. Once the groove is established it would guide the plane.
I will check when I go out to the shop.
jtk
Last edited by Jim Koepke; 02-22-2017 at 3:49 PM.
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
Contributor
A lot of the metal plows came with "short" and "long" arms. The long arms on my Sargent plow are 8 inches. Even accounting for the bit that goes into the body, and the bit for the fence, I am pretty sure I have made that exact cut with it.
Contributor
Checked on my Stanley #45 and the long rods can reach the center of an 8" board with no problem.
The Veritas Small Plow Plane would need to be run against a batten.
jtk
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
Contributor
IMAG0007.jpg
Don't forget the cam rest....
Contributor
Wow Steven, do you have to adjust the cam rest for each stroke?
With shavings that thick you'd be through the board in no time.
jtk
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
Member
There are a variety of ways to do it. I have a dual-skate plow plane with a 3/4" blade, so I'd probably use that. Before I had the plow plane I probably would have chiseled it out. Some other folks would probably use a router plane (an option you didn't mention). I bet the Veritas Hinge Mortise Plane would also work really well, as it's basically a router plane with a long body that would be easy to guide/register.
Last edited by Patrick Chase; 02-22-2017 at 8:04 PM.
Contributor
Question 1 - how long? Question 2 - are you going to glue the two boards to each other or otherwise fasten them? Question 3 - If yes to question 2, why do you need the groove?
Member
If you own(ed) a Stanley 45 with a 3/4" iron/blade, that would do it. A 3/4" shoulder or rabbet plane would do it, working against a batten. Your other solutions will work, too; just more work.
Contributor
Exactly how does the cam work Steven? I have seen the cam in photos of a 45 kit, but did not know what it was for. And, yes, those are some monster shavings you cranked out in that photo.
David
[OP]
Contributor
I'm building a cantilevered shelf off the back of my bench, about 8" wide and 5' long. I find I use my layout tools and a #9 mitre plane a lot and wanted someplace to put them more out of the way. I have a Lang/Schwarz style rack behind bench, but I find some of my tools (notably the small backsaws and the small squares) don't fit in it very well. Need to make a small mini saw till too.
The groove is just to register the sides of the vertical board and give it some registration support. I'll use glue as well. I might end up putting a rabbet and another board on the outer edge that goes in the tool tray if I need more surface area. The plan is to put some 3" 1/4-20 bolts through from the inside of the tool tray through the backwall of the tool tray (which is about 1.5") through the vertical piece, then use brass knobs to crank down the tension to hold the shelf in place. It'll be solid and fast to remove if I need to.
My bench is shoved against a wall, so I'm not overly worried about reach/depth. Also the whole point of the threaded rods is to make it quick to remove if I need to.
IMG_20160805_112706_1.jpg
And yes, that _is_ the clean bench state. The shelf will go between the end of the tool tray and the window.
Member
Could just use dowels or screws and glue.
Contributor
The slot, glue and any other fastener will give a bit more surface to the glue joint. It will also help to align the keel like appendage.
If you have access to a plow plane it is fairly easy. If you don't, then other methods might serve just as well.
jtk
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
Contributor
Was in a bit of a hurry, as for the cam.....all it is for is to support the plane. About every 2-3 passes, I had to twist the cam a hair, to go deep enough for the next two passes. You do NOT crank the cam tightly to the rod,just snug enough to stay put for a couple trips is all. I was making a groove on the "inside" of a box....there would be a second, off set groove on the outside, once the box was glued up.
Does not matter which rod the cam goes on, either. Usually about halfway between the fence and the sliding stock seems to work best. You are still pushing against the fence while pushing the plane forward. The cam is also NOT a depth stop. Box being worked on?
side grooves.jpg
Is some 3/8" thick Poplar. It became the box the Stanley 45 sits in, nowadays..
shavings.jpg
It will kick up a big nest of shavings.....
old vs new.jpg
OEM box in the background, replacement box in the foreground
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