At Cost Group Buy - Custom Vector Pin Table

[Greg W Watson]

I hope I am doing this right.

I have designed a pin table to fit my Speedy 300, but as long as your laser can accommodate a 28.725 X 17 inch insert, this should work for you as well. I am offering this up as a group buy to lower the costs associated with getting it made. This will be an AT COST project. I am offering this so we can all take advantage of the lowest possible price for this. I am not the vendor that will be making these plates.

Project Specs:

Each Table will consist of - Quantity 2

• 28.725" X 17" - .125 (1/8) 6061 Aluminum Plates with .125 holes across the table. There is also built in hand holds for easily placing in the table.

I will be offering the plates only but I have the McMaster part numbers that will be needed to assemble the two plates, as well as, the pins that will be needed. There are screws, risers and pins.

I will also provide a corel file that can be used for pin placement for each person who buys in so you can easily place pins on your cut files.

Right now my pricing is as follows. If I can get five people to buy in, the price per set of plates would be $135.98, plus shipping. If we get more than 5 interested, the price will only go down from there. I will provide all information for the vendor making these so anyone interested can verify pricing once we have enough people to proceed. I know something like this could easily be done out of acrylic but I want something durable that will last forever. I am hoping others do to.

Here are some 3D images of the design:

http://www.cutoutlaser.com/wp-conten...017/02/001.jpg
http://www.cutoutlaser.com/wp-conten...017/02/002.jpg
http://www.cutoutlaser.com/wp-conten...017/02/003.jpg
http://www.cutoutlaser.com/wp-conten...017/02/004.jpg
http://www.cutoutlaser.com/wp-conten...017/02/005.jpg

Also just in case there are any concerns about vaporware, here is a one off I did for a friend of mine that has a small Epilog.

http://www.cutoutlaser.com/wp-conten...2/eaton001.jpg
http://www.cutoutlaser.com/wp-conten...2/eaton002.jpg
http://www.cutoutlaser.com/wp-conten...2/eaton003.jpg
http://www.cutoutlaser.com/wp-conten...2/eaton004.jpg

[Keith Downing]

Maybe I'm missing something, but is there a reason this table would be specific only to the Trotec Speedy 300? Is that just the bed size you're going with? Or is there some reason this will only work with that version of that machine.

Seems to me right off the bat you're really narrowing down who this appeals to. Yet I would think the broader the audience, the higher the likely hood that you'll get enough people interested to get a meaningful price break.

Just my $.02

[Greg W Watson]

Fair question, the table was designed to fit every available cutting area on the Speedy 300. I don't own a Speedy 400 but I assume it would fit in one as well. I don't want to claim it will fit inside a laser unless I know 100% that it will.

Greg

[Keith Downing]

Fair question, the table was designed to fit every available cutting area on the Speedy 300. I don't own a Speedy 400 but I assume it would fit in one as well. I don't want to claim it will fit inside a laser unless I know 100% that it will.

Greg

I see. I was more thinking for all of us that have Chinese lasers, it might still appeal. Most of us have larger work areas than the standard Trotec/Epilog. And since the pins raise the work, it seems it would still work just fine for most projects if the table was smaller.

Incidentally, I also think this is the group of users who would probably be most interested in shaving a few bucks off the product or buying a non-OEM product.

[Greg W Watson]

I see. I was more thinking for all of us that have Chinese lasers, it might still appeal. Most of us have larger work areas than the standard Trotec/Epilog. And since the pins raise the work, it seems it would still work just fine for most projects if the table was smaller.

Incidentally, I also think this is the group of users who would probably be most interested in shaving a few bucks off the product or buying a non-OEM product.

This table will fit in pretty much any laser that can accommodate a 28.725 X 17 inch table.

[Bill George]

So what is wrong with a real honeycomb table made with steel and aluminum frame? I have used one for years.

[Gary Hair]

So what is wrong with a real honeycomb table made with steel and aluminum frame? I have used one for years.

The main reason to use a pin table vs honeycomb is flashback. If it's not a problem for you then you gain nothing with a pin table. If, however, you cut lots of any type of material that the back needs to be free of flashback then a pin table would be ideal. Since you can put pins in place where ever you like, you can avoid having anything under where the laser is cutting. Can't do that with honeycomb. I think pins may also get a bit more airflow under the material but that's not really my main reason for wanting it.

[Keith Downing]

So what is wrong with a real honeycomb table made with steel and aluminum frame? I have used one for years.

Pin tables are made for cutting things like thin acrylic or fine wood where you don't want any scarring or burn marks from the flashback. I also believe in some cases, when used properly, it may reduce the risk of fire caused when smoldering scrap materials get caught in the honeycomb under the workpiece.

This would be something you could place on top of your existing honeycomb table on most lasers, and the pins you insert would hold your work up off the table an inch or so. At least if it is similar to others I've seen online.

[Keith Downing]

I hope I am doing this right.

I have designed a pin table to fit my Speedy 300, but as long as your laser can accommodate a 28.725 X 17 inch insert, this should work for you as well. I am offering this up as a group buy to lower the costs associated with getting it made. This will be an AT COST project. I am offering this so we can all take advantage of the lowest possible price for this. I am not the vendor that will be making these plates.

Project Specs:

Each Table will consist of - Quantity 2

• 28.725" X 17" - .125 (1/8) 6061 Aluminum Plates with .125 holes across the table. There is also built in hand holds for easily placing in the table.

I will be offering the plates only but I have the McMaster part numbers that will be needed to assemble the two plates, as well as, the pins that will be needed. There are screws, risers and pins.

I will also provide a corel file that can be used for pin placement for each person who buys in so you can easily place pins on your cut files.

Assuming you got the approval to go ahead with this., congrats!

I'm definitely interested. Can you elaborate on what the additional parts and the pins will cost to go with what you are producing? I believe you are saying you have them sourced as well.

[TAMI WILSON]

Greg

I would be interested.

Tami

[Jerome Stanek]

What are you using for your pins. I made one using 6 mm plexi that I drilled with my cnc and use 1/8 pop rivets. I had hundreds of rivets left over from my ceiling days.

[John Lifer]

Ok, interesting, but if i see this right, you have holes in both sheets, and pins go through both and are held by the Speedy solid bed. This wouldn't be able to be used on table that is a honeycomb and not solid. Such as mine, i have a honeycomb and slats under it with air beneath. I'd have to add a third sheet beneath. (Which is not that much trouble.)

[Doug Fisher]

One reason I am considering a pin table versus my honeycomb table is that it would be a lot easier to keep clean. I cut a lot of acrylic and between my exhaust fan's downdraft and the air assist, I get a lot of acrylic residue the builds up in the honeycombs. It really stinks... for days after cutting. Not simple to really get it clean either.

Could you simplify your design and cut the cost almost in half by using just one plate instead of two? If you used pins like these watch pins that are thin on the ends and thick in the middle, couldn't you just drill the table holes as wide as the thin ends and thus the pins would sit on a single metal plate without falling through? Maybe somebody makes thicker/longer pin bars. I just did a quick search. Additionally, pin tips right under the material might do a better job of leveling any variations out compared to screws.

https://www.amazon.com/100pcs-Stainl...069329&sr=1-14

Don't forget https://www.fastenal.com and similar for your hardware pieces. Sometimes they can be less expensive compared to McMaster.

[Gene Uselman]

Ok, interesting, but if i see this right, you have holes in both sheets, and pins go through both and are held by the Speedy solid bed. This wouldn't be able to be used on table that is a honeycomb and not solid. Such as mine, i have a honeycomb and slats under it with air beneath. I'd have to add a third sheet beneath. (Which is not that much trouble.)

I also wondered why both sheets have holes? I have built something similar with 2"x.125" roll pins from Fastenal- what size are the holes- exactly 1/8"? Thanks Gene

[Greg W Watson]

Assuming you got the approval to go ahead with this., congrats!

I'm definitely interested. Can you elaborate on what the additional parts and the pins will cost to go with what you are producing? I believe you are saying you have them sourced as well.

Here are the extra parts you will need

McMaster:

QTY 8 - $3.33 Each - 91115a292 - 18-8 Stainless Steel Female Threaded Hex Standoff, 3/8" Hex Size, 3/4" Length, 10-32 Thread Size
QTY 1 - $3.12 10 pk - 90585a989 - 316 Stainless Steel Hex Drive Flat Head Screw, 82 Degree Countersink Angle, 10-32 Thread Size, 1/2" Long (need 8 total)
QTY ? - $7.12 10 pk - 90145a487 - 18-8 Stainless Steel Dowel Pin, 1/8" Diameter, 2-1/2" Length You can buy as many or as little as you want here. I don't think you will need a full tables worth. They come in a pack of 10.