Planer sled construction and use.

[Stuart Welsh]

I'm trying to take down a board of Mesquite that has a bow and some twist in it. I have just come to understand the importance of using a sled when planing stock in this condition. (Yes I understand some say to use a jointer on one face first but my board is over 12" wide and my jointer is 6", where as the planer is 15".) As I've never made a sled let alone heard of one until yesterday, I'd like to verify some points.

The sled needs to be nice and flat. Seems the best way to make a dead flat sled large enough for a 2" x 12" x 68" board is to layer some plywood. What would you do?

I'm going to hold the board onto the sled by counter sinking a screw up through the bottom of the sled into both ends of the board, long enough to hold but short enough to be well away from the planer head.

I've read that the side I plane first is the crown of the bow, i.e. concave side down. Correct?

Once I have that side flat I can take it off the sled, turn it over and continue planing to my desired thickness.

Sound right?

Thanks, Stuart.

[Steve Demuth]

Stuart,

You've got it about right. I use doubled 3/4" MDF for my planer sled, because its uniformity makes it highly resistant to any bowing over time. Good 3/4" plywood should work too.

I'd be really wary of the screw mechanism for holding the board. Mistakes with steel in a planer can be dangerous and expensive. Instead, I use a 1/8" high push bar glued onto the trailing edge of the sled.

You didn't mention supporting the board other than the screws, but you need to support the arch in your board very firmly. I hot-melt glue wedges under the board to prevent the planer from forcing the bend out. This is critical. Even with both ends secured with your screws, a planer can push the bow out of your board, leaving you with the same bow after cutting.

[Robert Engel]

Double sided melamine or panolam is also a good choice.

[Stuart Welsh]

Stuart,

I use doubled 3/4" MDF for my planer sled...,I use a 1/8" high push bar glued onto the training edge of the sled.... I hot-melt glue wedges under the board to prevent the planer from forcing the bend out.

Thanks Steve. I've got 3/4" MDF sitting around that I was given for free, seems like a good use for it. I like the idea of the bar (or cleat), I'll do that. I did see a YouTube advising on the shims and I forgot to mention that in my original post, I like the idea of hot glue.

Time to make some sawdust...and watch my board foot cost jump!

[Stuart Welsh]

Double sided melamine or panolam is also a good choice.

Thanks Robert.