Results 1 to 14 of 14

Thread: Bies fence refurb

  1. #1

    Bies fence refurb

    Several years ago I picked up a used Unisaw with a Beisimeyer Fence (sp???). As best I can figure the guy I bought it from had gotten it as surplus from the local school system.
    The saw was in pretty good shape, miter slot to blade looked to be within .002 over the diameter of the blade. The fence though had seen a harder life. The melamine face had been nailed at some point by a saw blade. From the looks of it someone was trying to cut a rabbet without an auxiliary fence. It doesn't create a huge problem functionally but it's gotten to the point that it's starting to irritate.

    Does anyone have a clue as to whether there is a repair or replacement procedure for this? I can't seem to find a precut replacement, thought about using a heat gun to remove the existing sheet and replacing it with a piece of formica. Just being cautious before tearing into it.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Tidewater, VA
    Posts
    273
    Link to a Popular Woodworking article that covers the topic: http://www.popularwoodworking.com/wo...l-and-refacing

    A search of this site (box in upper right corner) will probably bring up some threads on the topic as well.

    BobV

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Midland MI
    Posts
    887
    I replaced mine with Corian counter top. it is not hard to remove, just rip the formica off then unscrew the plywood. You need to pay attention when reinstalling the face, that whatever you use is flat. My Corian wasn't perfect so I shimmed it some in between the corian and metal fence, and lowered some high spot with a card scraper. I just counter sunk the bolts that hold it the fence. So far I have been quite happy with it. My original formica fence face had a wave in it which messed up my cuts.

    I would suggested whatever you choose, make sure it is perfectly flat (consistent thickness), if you get a dip or bump it will cause all kinds of trouble. That is one reason I like a setup like mine verse the magazine one posted above, I can less mine to shim out a low spot, if you follow the guide above you need to make sure you get it right or start over.
    Last edited by cody michael; 02-24-2017 at 8:51 PM.

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Vallaster View Post
    Link to a Popular Woodworking article that covers the topic: http://www.popularwoodworking.com/wo...l-and-refacing

    A search of this site (box in upper right corner) will probably bring up some threads on the topic as well.

    BobV
    Thank you Bob! This will help me too.
    Fred
    "All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing."

    “If you want to know what a man's like, take a good look at how he treats his inferiors, not his equals.”

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Eastern Oregon
    Posts
    367
    Thumbs up on Corian! I build a few Biesemeyer clones for saws I refurbish and have good luck with the Corian faces. Just countersink till the heads of self tapping screws are flush or a bit more and nothing ever seems to catch on them. Have been lucky in finding it used so far. Bought a piece the other day, enough for both sides on five fences and a few ZCI's for $30. which I didn't think was to bad.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    West Lafayette, IN
    Posts
    6,530
    I just refaced 2 fences, painted one.

    The Pop Woodworking Article is pretty much right on but they don't replace the ply IIRC. so you need to cut a new blank, drill and countersink new holes. Alignment of the holes is key, otherwise when the fence is installed the face won't be parallel to the table. That will create a bigger gap at the front or back, which could be bad news when cutting thin material as it could slip under th fence unexpectedly.

    Might need to install some new t-molding too. I bought some online but most places have 20' min, which is enough for 2 1/2 complete fences (5 faces @ 4' each). To cut the ply to receive the molding, use a circ saw blade in the TS. My ceiling height is too low to allow the fence face to stand on end, so I used the bandsaw for the end cuts. Round over the ply corners a bit sonyhe t molding can lay down over the corner.

    Check the glide pads and make sure they are in good condition.

  7. #7
    Thanks all for the responses. I had looked for replacements but that seems obsolete. The Popular Woodworking article seems pretty much right in line with what I was thinking. The Corian is a great idea. If I can get a piece of backsplash that would be an option if the existing plywood base is unusable.

    On mine, the gouges look to be only in the laminate, and the fence is straight except for that area so hopefully it will be just a laminate replacement.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    McKean, PA
    Posts
    15,635
    Blog Entries
    1
    Depending upon the size of the divot, you could fill it in with a two part epoxy paste such as PC-7. The white face wouldn't be destroyed, but the fence face would be flat and smooth. Or build and auxiliary fence cover like this.
    lsfence1.jpg
    Lee Schierer
    USNA '71
    Go Navy!

    My advice, comments and suggestions are free, but it costs money to run the site. If you found something of value here please give a little something back by becoming a contributor! Please Contribute

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    West Lafayette, IN
    Posts
    6,530
    Wish I had that 5 minutes of typing back as it seems it was useless information for the OP.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Tidewater, VA
    Posts
    273
    Matt,

    Not at all wasted. There will be others reading whose fences are worse off than what the OP is dealing with. Those folks will benefit from the repair/replace tips. I learned something from your discussion on the banding. Haven't done it, but feel better prepared if/when it becomes necessary.

    BobV

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    West Lafayette, IN
    Posts
    6,530
    Good to hear, thanks Bob.

  12. #12
    Matt,
    What you wrote addresses things I hope I don't have to deal with when I get after this. From what I can tell, it does not look as if the gouge is into the plywood. That said, you never quite know until you get under the laminate so the advice is appreciated. The t-moulding that is on there is loose on the back edge on the damaged side. another thing to be addressed but it was further down the list. Not sure if the molding is worn or the groove has opened up. Somewhere along the line I also need to replace the rule tape on the beam. That thing is so faded, I need a flashlight to read it. I did out a Wixey indicator on it and that gets around the issue but I still want to replace the tape as well when I finally get after this refurb.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    West Lafayette, IN
    Posts
    6,530
    Gotcha. Personally I'd just plan to remake the faces and start fresh (or use corian). I didn't like the way the plywood looked after I removed the laminate on mine.

    Fastcap makes a nice adhesive backed tape, or at least I hop so since I have one arriving today for mine! Fastcap makes good stuff so I'm pretty confident. I also have a Wixey I plan to mount!

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    2,286
    Mikestools.com



    Quote Originally Posted by John Gustafson View Post
    Several years ago I picked up a used Unisaw with a Beisimeyer Fence (sp???). As best I can figure the guy I bought it from had gotten it as surplus from the local school system.
    The saw was in pretty good shape, miter slot to blade looked to be within .002 over the diameter of the blade. The fence though had seen a harder life. The melamine face had been nailed at some point by a saw blade. From the looks of it someone was trying to cut a rabbet without an auxiliary fence. It doesn't create a huge problem functionally but it's gotten to the point that it's starting to irritate.

    Does anyone have a clue as to whether there is a repair or replacement procedure for this? I can't seem to find a precut replacement, thought about using a heat gun to remove the existing sheet and replacing it with a piece of formica. Just being cautious before tearing into it.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •