Tapered candle drill bit

[Anthony Cayll]

I am looking for a tapered candle drill bit. I've read a few articles on making my own, but I'd rather just buy one. Problem is that I can't find them anywhere. I was wondering if anyone has one that they would be willing to sell. Any suggestions would be great. Thanks

[Bob Coates]

I have made one using a spade bit and tapering the sides. Work ok and was cheep.

Bob

[John Keeton]

You could just drill a 7/8" hole and use the inserts - http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Merc...upp-cand-braci

[Bob Vallaster]

I have one marked Woodtek (house brand for Woodwoorkers Supply); stock # is 95600. Checking their site just now gives me a "no longer available." This was probably picked up ~10-15 years ago. Wasn't cheap, but it drills cleanly with no chatter. My earlier attempts to drill end-grain with a modified spade bit were rough.

BobV

[Clint Bach]

Candle holders should always, always. always. ALWAYS!!!! have a fire resistant insert. I have seen candle holders catch fire when the candle burns to the bottom. Big fire too!!!! I used to work in a candle shop.... Always use a fire resistant inset.

c

[Brice Rogers]

The tapered candle drill will drill a hole that is tapered. If you google it you'll see some places that source it.

But if you want to make your own, why not just turn the hole? Drill a hole to the minor (smaller) diameter, then make the outer opening the larger diameter and then just turn the walls flat to blend the two diameters? Maybe I'm missing something. The idea of using a spade bit isn't a bad idea either.

The person who mentioned using a metal insert brought up a good idea. So, maybe you drill a straight hole in the wood and put in an insert (soft metal like lead, brass, zinc, copper, aluminum) and taper the inside diameter once it is CA glued in place. There are some copper plumbing parts that are fairly thick and are made to adapt one copper pipe size to the next larger size. Or you could buy an aluminum rod and turn it on your wood lathe. Probably not as hard as lignum vitae.

[Jamie Buxton]

There are tapered router bits sold for this purpose. For instance http://woodworker.com/hss-candle-cup...ssu-95-600.asp.

[Marvin Hasenak]

I ground down spade bits, and cut the shank down to about 2 inches long. I would drill a pilot hole to the depth I wanted using a 1/4: jobber bit, then using the modified stubby spade bit drill the hole. With the pilot hole I could tell when I hit the correct depth.

[Brian Brown]

Don't know if this is large enough, but...

https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p...thimble+cutter

I also agree which what Clint said. I won't make candle holders because I don't want to be responsible for burning down somebody's house, or burning down somebody.

[Anthony Cayll]

Thanks for all of the info. I'm not making, only repairing/retrofitting these very old wall sconces. The owners are wanting to put candles in them for looks only. Unable to mount them on the lathe , so turning is not an option.

[Leo Van Der Loo]

I wonder about someone burning down their house because they left the candle burning on a wooden table or dresser, like using a match and holding it till you burn your finger, you know what I would call that , or using a electric heater and leaving it sit too close to combustible material

Anyway I googled and all I could come up with is this one that isn’t available more, oh and lots of wooden candles, all shapes and sizes, and no inserts.

candle holders.jpg Candle tapered bit.jpg

The only other thing was some tapered reamers that are about the right taper, though one would have to shorten it and of course it only will ream the existing hole as it is unable to drill.

Taper drill bit.jpg taper bit.jpg

Sold at Lee Valley.

[Thom Sturgill]

Anthony, I think I would still go with the candle cup kit CSUSA sells. They sit above the wood and just need a screw to hold them in place.