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Thread: Table Saw Refurbish, Arbor Size Reduction

  1. #16
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  2. #17
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    Steve, I would go the opposite way and bore out my blades............Regards, Rod.

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rod Sheridan View Post
    Steve, I would go the opposite way and bore out my blades............Regards, Rod.
    Yeah .. That
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  4. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by David Kumm View Post
    Lee, you are correct. It was the acme die I was remembering. I'm not good enough to cut acme threads and my machinist figured the die was worth it. Mine was bigger though. Dave

    Wouldn't you just cut the threads on a lathe?

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
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    Quote Originally Posted by Martin Wasner View Post
    Wouldn't you just cut the threads on a lathe?

    My arbor was attached to a rotor so you couldn't chuck it into a lathe. Dave

  6. #21
    I have not resolved the arbor resize yet, so is it routine to have blades that have been rebored to a larger size end up centered as they should be or do they many times end up off center as the blades that I have that have been rebored that are not centered and end up with a wobble? I seem to have enough trouble in life without wobbley blades on my table saw.
    I am starting to look at this path. If I go the route of resizing the arbor, do I have the machinist make the arbor just smaller than 5/8" or is there a standard size for arbors for this purpose?
    Steve.
    Thanks.

  7. #22
    a
    Another thought if I may. Does anyone have a Uni Saw that has a square Cut arbor nut that would share their Saw model number with me so I might try to order a square cut arbor nut from Delta? The tech that I spoke with the other day at Delta wasn't able to help me with finding one.
    Thanks again,
    Steve.

  8. #23
    From what I hear, getting parts from Delta is difficult at best.

    I've had a few things rebore'd, I've never noticed any difference in them.

    Dave, I wasn't thinking about direct drive.

  9. #24
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    A good machinist will be indicating the center of the blade and hole so you won't have wobble. You still want the teeth tipped off so the bottom is flat. Given that a dado lasts forever and you only need about two good blades, reboring is pretty reasonable. The extra mass on the arbor is a good thing too, especially for a dado set. Dave

  10. #25
    That's good information. Thanks for your time.

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
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    I too would modify my saw blades to fit the existing arbor. As a machinist myself, I can tell you it will take longer to set the blade up in the mill than it will to interpolate the bore to size.
    I have this issue here with my 40A Multiplex. 3/4" Arbor. Today's blades are 5/8" or 1". I enlarge the smaller bore blades, and use a precision reducing bushing on the 1" bore blades. This also allows me to continue using the vintage blades I have that do have a 3/4" bore.

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Neumann View Post
    I have not resolved the arbor resize yet, so is it routine to have blades that have been rebored to a larger size end up centered as they should be or do they many times end up off center as the blades that I have that have been rebored that are not centered and end up with a wobble? I seem to have enough trouble in life without wobbley blades on my table saw.
    I am starting to look at this path. If I go the route of resizing the arbor, do I have the machinist make the arbor just smaller than 5/8" or is there a standard size for arbors for this purpose?
    Steve.
    Thanks.
    A tool manufacturer will bore your blades, perfectly centered. It's also a good time to have them sharpened.

    I had all my 5/8" blades bored to 30mm when I changed saws, they're perfect, I had them done by FS Tools for under $20, including 2 pin holes for the braking pins..........Regards, Rod.

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