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Thread: How would you cut this?

  1. #1

    How would you cut this?

    Hi all.

    I was batching out a bunch of angled window sills the other day, and one of the cuts got me scratching my head. In the image below, it is the green shaded surface I am referring to.
    angle cut.jpg

    So the situation is that with a left tilt table saw (as I have) you cannot cut this 'stopped bevel' cut no matter which way you flip the board. The other side is no problem. A through cut is also no problem because you can just flip the board end for end. It matters too that the cut is greater than 45 degrees, meaning the board cannot be placed on its edge to make the cut.

    So my question is, how would you go about it? I have a few ideas (and have in fact already finished the cuts) but am curious how others would go about it. I am interested in reasonably accurate cuts, but they do not need to be table saw. I have a bandsaw, but the table tilts to the right (creating same situation as a left tilt saw blade).

    Thanks for any ideas

  2. #2
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    My first thought is miter gauge, jigged at the proper angle, and a dado blade to hog ot the material (or at the RT or shaper). I'm sure other better suggestions will come along.

  3. #3
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    Portable trim saw. Finish with jig saw.
    John T.

  4. #4
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    I'd use the bandsaw with a jig to create the required tilt. You should be able to get a very accurate, although not jointer smooth, cut. I do dovetails this way that fit quite nicely. Same jig can work for both cuts by switching the side of the blade you put the fence on.

  5. #5
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    See, I told you better ideas would come! I like the bandsaw approach as long as the finish is acceptable.

  6. #6
    That's a bandsaw cut. Tilt the table, make the cut. Easy.

  7. #7
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    I would use a wedge-shaped jig, attached with plenty of double-sided carpet tape to each side of the piece in turn. That way you could do this on the bandsaw or tablesaw without tilting the blade or table at all.

  8. #8
    Since you can't do a "stop" cut on the table saw....You could do a "go" cut. Mark your marks, place workpiece over retracted blade, raise the blade a predetermined height while while keeping piece steady and GO. That is without riving.knife or splitter installed. Just be mindful where the blade comes up.

  9. #9
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    Ryoba, that would be marked and cut by hand that way the angles match exactly.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Henderson View Post
    That's a bandsaw cut. Tilt the table, make the cut. Easy.
    Agree. To elaborate, tilt the bandsaw table, to the right, the first cut would be with the fence on the right of the blade. Flip the workpiece and make the second cut with the fence on the left side of the blade. The first cut I describe would be unsafe on a table saw because the offcut is trapped between the blade and fence, but it is fine on a bandsaw. In the second cut, the offcut is on the outside of the cut. Hope this makes sense.

  11. #11
    All good thoughts.

    What I ended up doing was standing the board vertical on a miter gauge and raising the blade to full height. It didn't quite cut all the way, so I finished with a hand saw (Ryobo in fact). I didn't like it though, as the pieces were around 36" long (or tall in the case of that cut) and it didn't cut all the way. I was also curious how I would have done it if the cut was much longer, thereby invalidating all together that method.

    I kinda eliminated handsaw as I had 16 to do, but totally doable.

    I didn't even consider jig saw or trim saw / circular saw.

    I did think about the "go" cut as mentioned, and I think if the cut was any longer I definitely would have considered that. But raising the blade each time is a bit more time consuming than I would 'ideally' like.

    I really like the wedge shaped jig idea, either for bandsaw or tablesaw. Only problem would be taking the time to make the jig with the correct angle... but with enough cuts to make...

    That's a bandsaw cut. Tilt the table, make the cut. Easy.
    That's what I was hoping! But I'm not sure I follow. Even placing the fence on the other side of the blade, as Edwin points out, I don't think changes the geometry in such a way allowing that cut. Unless I'm just not thinking about it correctly, moving the fence (with bandsaw or tablesaw alike) doesn't change the angle if its on the same edge of the board as in the image.

  12. #12
    If it will be painted then you could rip the whole bevel through and then glue on the off cut.

  13. #13
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    You can only do one end of the piece by tilting the table, as Tyler pointed out in his OP.

  14. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Demuth View Post
    You can only do one end of the piece by tilting the table, as Tyler pointed out in his OP.
    You are right. I didn't think it all the way through. What I was proposing would only work for opposite corners!

  15. #15
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    I'd do by hand but you have several to saw....
    Jerry

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