Face Frame clamping solution?

[Len Rosenberg]

Hi all. I will be attaching a face frame to a cabinet that has three sections, so two vertical dividers. Clamping around the edges is easy, but what do folks use to clamp the mid sections? This will be a clear finish, not paint, so will not be using screws, nails or brads. I plan to attach the frame using glue. I've seen the Bessey EKT, which I think would work great but I would need 6 or 8 and they are $80 a piece. I've also seen the Rockler face frame clamp but I'm not convinced how well it would work, and those are $35 each. Any suggestions?

Thanks, Len.

[Edwin Santos]

How tall a cabinet box are we talking about? Could you use a cambered caul the length of your vertical dividers? When clamped at the top and bottom, the curve will apply pressure in the center. Hope this makes sense.

Are you using any form of joinery other than the glue? I have used biscuits to attach face frames in which case clamps on the ends and a heavy weight in the center would be enough.

[Jay Aubuchon]

Plus 1 for using cauls. You don't need to buy fancy ones. You can make good-enough ones from 2x4s.

[David Eisenhauer]

I had a small, commercial cabinet shop that targeted the kitchen cabinet upgrade market for several years and usually built clear-finish stuff. I tried all the ways I could think of, but the divider stiles seemed to glue on in the most secure fashion at the exact position I needed them to by using cauls as Edwin says. It seems like an additional step, but it works every time without any drama. I did enough of the same sizes that I used all-thread rod to pull my cauls tight rather than clamps for ease of installation and that made a big difference for me. Using clamps, I always felt I needed a third hand (as a minimum). I usually used aluminum bar clamps to clamp the outer stiles and rails in place.

[Warren Wilson]

I've used painter's tape for this very purpose -- Lee Valley sells a slightly elastic tape to add a bit of pressure. If you have a good fit between the pieces you don't need kilonewtons of force to have excellent adhesion.

[Len Rosenberg]

Thanks. The cabinet is 30" tall by 51" wide. I have not used cauls before. Any suggestions on how to make them?

Len

[Lee Schierer]

I usually don't put the back on until after the face frame is in place.

[George Bokros]

Hi all. I will be attaching a face frame to a cabinet that has three sections, so two vertical dividers. Clamping around the edges is easy, but what do folks use to clamp the mid sections? This will be a clear finish, not paint, so will not be using screws, nails or brads. I plan to attach the frame using glue. I've seen the Bessey EKT, which I think would work great but I would need 6 or 8 and they are $80 a piece. I've also seen the Rockler face frame clamp but I'm not convinced how well it would work, and those are $35 each. Any suggestions?

Thanks, Len.

Home Depot has them for $48 ea, still not cheap but almost half of what you cite.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/BESSEY-2-...id=CJzYgM7lsdI

[Len Rosenberg]

I usually don't put the back on until after the face frame is in place.

Well, live and learn Lee, this is my first face frame cabinet, and I didn't realize this would be an issue. The back is already very securely attached and is not coming off.... Also, given the size of the cabinet (30 x 51), attaching the back was necessary to make it square and rigid. I don't think leaving the back off until the end was really an option. But for smaller cabinets, that is great advice, thank you.

[sebastian phillips]

eMuld 1.jpgMuld2.jpgMuld3.jpg

[sebastian phillips]

You may have to be creative-
spring braces off the ceiling are simple and cheap
clamp F style clamps to the box sides, with the bar just above the FF. Then shim hard between the clamp bar and the FF-also cheap and easy.
Plan it out, you'll come up with a good solution that works.
Good Luck,
Seb

[andy bessette]

Where there needs to be clamping pressure, but clamps are impractical for some reason, you can assemble using screws set in a counterbore, and bung with plugs cut from scraps of the same frame material. For this I use Fuller bits and plug cutters.

41KscfIAgXL.jpg

[Sam Murdoch]

If there are shelf pin holes you can make up a clamping block using those. You need a couple of 1" to 5/4" thick pieces of stock with shelf pins attached in 3 or 4 spaces (or more if you are inclined) relative to the holes in the cabinet. The straight pins without spoons or other "built in support pads" are best suited. Set the pinned blocks into the shelf pin holes of the cabinet and use this to clamp to while attaching the face frame. Of course you don't want to use white knuckle tension on your clamps or you will distort the holes but an easy light pressure just to keep the verticals of the ff in place until the glue dries.

For the record - all my cabinets big, short, wide or otherwise get their face frames attached BEFORE the backs are attached. I add temporary bracing on big cabinets if needed to square up before the face frames go on.

[Len Rosenberg]

Home Depot has them for $48 ea, still not cheap but almost half of what you cite.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/BESSEY-2-...id=CJzYgM7lsdI

Thanks George, good to know.

[Len Rosenberg]

Thanks for the various and clever solutions! Love this forum I will go with a couple of cauls.

Len