Cutting down a Disston mitre saw

[David Ryle]

I'm hesitant to post this and before anyone suggests taking me out back and hanging me from a stout branch I emphasize that I am just mulling this over in my mind and before I do anything I might regret I thought I would ask so....here goes.
Recently I indulged in my eBay habit,I know many of you can relate,when I came across a Disston mitre saw steel-backed looking in fair condition and at a price that I couldn't pass up,I use this rationalization with my wife to justify my purchases....it never works.
I really didn't need the saw I already have a mitre saw I'm happy with(did I mention I have a habit?)
but I began to think about modifying it into a carcass saw, the plate is over 20" long so a cut down would be necessary as would changing to a cross-cut configuration from the original rip config.
So, what do you think,good idea,bad idea.

[Phil Mueller]

I certainly wouldn't have a problem with that. I assume it's not a rare collector saw. I will, however, say that I have two miter saws. I have one sharpened for very fine/smooth cuts, and one sharpened a bit more aggressive. I like having the choice.

[Jim Koepke]

It is your saw.

Save the cut off piece to either make a scraper. If you have the interest a small piece works for making a cutter for string inlay work. One of my marking knives is made from a piece of saw blade.

A cut off wheel on a Dremel tool works well for cutting a saw blade. Leaves a better edge than a hacksaw.

jtk

[Tony Zaffuto]

Have at it! I've thought of doing it myself several times (never did, though). Several comments: the saw plate is thicker than a typical tenon or sash saw, also, has a lot of depth under the spine. The other issue to consider is the hang of the handle.

[Brent Cutshall]

I've done that. It was a saw that I got real good deal on, and I already had two miter saws. So, I worked the plate until it was square and filed the teeth for crosscut just like you said. It's sawing like mad now, especially for a fine-tooth saw. In my opinion, you do more crosscut miters anyway. If anybody tries to hang you for it, take a stob to him!

[Malcolm Schweizer]

Wait a minute- wouldn't a miter saw already be filed crosscut, or at the very least a combination filing? Am I mistaken?

As for chopping off the saw- go for it. I would use a chop saw with a metal cutting blade. It should power through it quickly at an exact 90 degree cut. File it smooth and put a bevel on the edge of the back after cutting. As mentioned already, use the cutoff as a scraper. This being said, maybe you could trade it for an existing carcass saw. Seems it would be worth more $ than the carcass saw, so you might wind up with an even better saw in trade.

I really want a miter box. I made the mistake of buying a Jorgensen that had plastic guides, and it was absolutely horrible. It turned me off from the whole captive miter box thing, admittedly wrongfully so. It will likely be my next big expense- a nice millers falls miter box and a Lie-Nielsen or similar miter saw to fit it.

[David Ryle]

I feel like I'm about to start a re-model in an old home, you really don't know what your in for until you start! Am I right here when I say the plate in a mitre saw has no taper? I don't remember, and your right tote hang will be an issue, I've never modified a tote to any extent beyond the usual for finger grip.Never thought of using a dremel for the cutting great idea!

[lowell holmes]

Be cognizant that the weight of a miter box saw is much heavier than typical back saws. I was going to cut one off and realized that it would be much heavier than my other joinery saws.

Also, the tote is larger and does not fit like a dovetail or panel saw.

[steven c newman]

Just picked a Stanley No. 2246A sans saw today....I think I have an 18" saw.....IF you were closer, I would suggest a trade....BEFORE you cut that one down...

[steven c newman]

As this saw is a bit short..
DSCF0002.JPG
Plate length is 18-1/2" by 3-1/2" under the spine. Twould be good for doing quarter round molding all day.....Mitre box needs a 26" x 4" saw....the one in the background is my Stanley #358

[John Vernier]

I did this once, I cut down a later model Disston miter saw and made a new handle to give it the look of an early 19th-century tenon saw. As Lowell Holmes pointed out above, the weight, that is, the thickness of the plate, makes this a much heavier saw than a properly conceived joinery saw should be. My results looked pretty enough but the balance made the saw too heavy to be pleasant to use. You might have less of an issue with a shorter saw (I was making something along the lines of the Seaton chest tenon saw, 19+" long), but for myself the next time I want to take up saw making I will buy a blade and back from Blackburn or TGIAG.

[lowell holmes]

I made a tenon saw from a kit from Ron Bontz. It was a successful endeavor. The saw plate was 16" long by 4". He also provided a brass back. I made the handle.

I used it today. The long blade lets me cut straight smooth tenons. I also sharpen my own saws, so it stays sharp.