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Thread: Boiled linseed oil

  1. #1
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    Boiled linseed oil

    I am working on a child's rocking chair and was going to finish it with boiled linseed oil. I read this article that says do not use linseed oil. I was under the opinion once cured all finishes are safe. Any opinions?

    Linseed Oil - Made from flax seeds, linseed oil is another excellent penetrating natural oil for wood. Like many of the other natural oils it has a slight yellowish tint and will yellow the wood slightly but still shows the grain beautifully. You'll want to avoid boiled linseed oilfor children's toys as it includes petroleum solvents and metallic drying agents that make it dry faster. Pick the pure stuff and deal with the slower drying time.

  2. #2
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    Yes, BLO has metallic driers. I wouldn't use it even if it didn't.

    Why not consider shellac. Easy to wipe on, dries lickety split, and is safe.

    John

  3. #3
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    I think the issue is that kids can chew on toys and furniture or at least put it in their mouths, thus the concern about metals in BLO.

    What I don't like about BLO as a finish by itself, is that anything that gets handled, like the arm of a chair, the coating seems to rub off or soften up due to sweat and regular contact over time.

  4. #4
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    I doubt there is major danger once the finish cures...it wouldn't be able to be sold, otherwise. That said, if you like the look and attributes of a BLO finish but want to avoid the metallic dryers, you can use the Tried and True product which doesn't contain them and leverages heat polymerization in the manufacturing process to promote curing once applied. It's not inexpensive, but a little goes a LONG way. There are two formulas...one that's oil only and one that's oil and beeswax. I've used them both for many years. In fact, Professor Dr. SWMBO's cherry desk was finished with the latter in 1997 and still looks "new"...
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by kevin nee View Post
    I am working on a child's rocking chair and was going to finish it with boiled linseed oil. I read this article that says do not use linseed oil. I was under the opinion once cured all finishes are safe. Any opinions?

    Linseed Oil - Made from flax seeds, linseed oil is another excellent penetrating natural oil for wood. Like many of the other natural oils it has a slight yellowish tint and will yellow the wood slightly but still shows the grain beautifully. You'll want to avoid boiled linseed oilfor children's toys as it includes petroleum solvents and metallic drying agents that make it dry faster. Pick the pure stuff and deal with the slower drying time.
    I can't see any child chewing a little rocking chair (I can see a dog doing it as happened with one of the toys I made at Christmas!) I have used many finishes over the years but never BLO. I agree with Jim that the 'organic' tried and true products are good. I like the T and T Danish oil. For years I have used the General Finishes salad bowl finish on utensils, bowls, children's toys and even children's furniture. It is very durable but does leave a glossy appearance. However it depends on the look you are going for. Sounds like a great project you are working on!

  6. #6
    BLO is a 'bad' choice because there are some perceived risks (nobody's even mentioned the fire risk of the spent rags) and so many great, safer alternatives.

    Anything that's for kids, consider shellac. Three good reasons: fast to apply, perceived safe for kids to chew on, easy to repair after kids chew on.

    If you want something foodsafe that operates similarly to BLO in terms of feel and look, then use PURE tung oil. Like BLO neither really dries per se. They gum up, which means if you apply a thin enough coat and wipe off the excess, you'll get a 'soft' if not perfectly protective finish. There are aesthetic (tactile and visual) reasons you may opt for a pure oil finish. Be prepared to refresh these as they do dull with time. If you attempt to build a film instead of buffing it off before it sets up, you will find yourself with a sticky surface. Even that's not the end of the world. A quick wipe with mineral spirits will remove the tackiness.

    The presence of petroleum solvents is not factually more detrimental than the natural molecules - as a general rule. So, don't fall into that false perception. Each finish has to be evaluated on its own with respect to safety.

  7. #7
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    BLO needs long dry time..I generally apply liberally and let dry 0ne week after a light wiping.....Till you can no longer smell it...Then proceed with rest of your finishing regimen...
    Jerry

  8. #8
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    Any opinions?
    Try Ballistol instead.
    My granddad always said, :As one door closes, another opens".
    Wonderful man, terrible cabinet maker...

  9. #9
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    I use pure Tung oil on children's toys that may be chewed. I use it on cherry furniture, pine bookcases, cutting boards, salad bowls, tool handles etc. As a final couple of coats on top of 7 coats of BLO it adds a nice sheen.
    I've seen a child's rocking horse where the horses head got chewed but a rocking chair has far less risk.
    Pure Tung oil is expensive but goes a long way, you do get to enjoy the lovely nutty aroma when you rub it on!

  10. #10
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    Jul 2015
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    I agree about BLO being filled with heavy metallic drying agents. Yuck.

    Personally, I use a heat-processed linseed oil that is sold to painters and artists as "Stand Oil". It is straight Linseed Oil - but it has been cooked with heat and does not need any drying agents. It is a bit thicker than regular linseed, but it has the same drying/curing time as BLO. The best of both worlds. It is a bit more expensive than BLO at the big box store, though.

    I sometimes melt some beeswax into the Stand Oil (4:1 oil to wax ratio) to make a fantastic finish for things like kids toys and small jewelry boxes.

  11. #11
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    General BLO does have the driers, but Tried and True does not...'just in case BLO is the right finish for a project and there is concern with that.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

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