My barrel window is on the lid...and therefore, flat.
My barrel window is on the lid...and therefore, flat.
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
How well does that work on the lid Jim? Do you have any pictures of it? I would think with the static dust build up that it would be hard to see down far enough to see where the dust is.
I'm a Joe of all trades. It's a first, it'll catch on.
Lee, that's a great answer and I will definitely try that and see how it works. I thought about heating it up but wasn't sure of a good way to do it. The wood form is a great idea. Thanks!
I'm a Joe of all trades. It's a first, it'll catch on.
It's been there for over ten years now I believe. No issues with static. I'm traveling for a family medical issue, so I unfortunately cannot help with a photo at the present time.
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
Awesome, I think that's the route I will go for right now and maybe try to add the light later. I am really good about checking my DC now as it sits in a different room currently anyways so I don't think I'll have an issue remembering to check it.
Thanks guys! Jim, hope all is well, stay safe on your trip.
I'm a Joe of all trades. It's a first, it'll catch on.
I have my dc in another room. Bought the oneida sensor when it first came out, and it was not reliable. Tried to build Alan's sensor, but could not find a sensor without delay. So I cut a hole in the wall in front of the barrel, put a window in it, and now I just turn on a trouble light so it lights up the hose between cyclone and barrel. When the hose goes dark, it is full! Have to remember to look at it.
I used a translucent barrel with castors. Easy to see when it's getting full.
IMG_3998.jpg
I saw those, problem is I am so pushed for height that I could only use a 20 gallon container and I'm literally an inch from the ceiling in that room. The container I have is 21 inches tall and cannot go any higher and couldn't find one that size in translucent.
I'm a Joe of all trades. It's a first, it'll catch on.
Where I worked these Roto-Bin-Dicators worked well in dusty conditions.
They have a small motor and when the level stops the paddle from turning relay contacts change state. About as simple as ya can get.
http://bindicator.com/products/roto-bin-dicator-pro/
The main problem with the synchronous motor/stalled rotor style Bindicator® and the version originally sold by Oneida, wasn't that they didn't work, it was cost. I believe Oneida wanted around $250 several years ago for a unit that didn't include any alarm device and required another relay or circuitry to control such a device or a DC.
A quick look on eBay shows the Bindicator® as currently unavailable, except for used units listing for around $200 and one new unit for which the seller is asking over $1000.
Yes Alan, the electrical classification probably drives the cost way up.