Gorilla wood glue vs. Titebond

[dennis thompson]

I have always used Titebond glue, but when I went to buy some I saw some Gorilla wood glue and thought
l'd try it. I have used Gorilla tape and found it much better than duct tape.
I haven't tried the Gorilla glue yet. What has been your experience with Gorilla glue?
Thanks

[Jamie Buxton]

Be specific. Gorilla markets polyurethane glue, PVA glue, epoxy, and super glue.

[Mike Henderson]

I assume you're talking about the polyurethane glue. I've used it and it works fine. The foaming can be an issue and it stains my fingers. I use it for certain applications but I mostly stick with PVA because it's an easy glue to use.

Mike

[Steve Cowart]

I think he was referring to the Wood Glue, Its fairly new I think.

https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Adhes...illa+wood+glue

[John K Jordan]

I assume you're talking about the polyurethane glue. I've used it and it works fine. The foaming can be an issue and it stains my fingers.

A test a few years ago in one of the woodworking magazines showed this glue was not nearly as strong as Titebond or white glue.

JKJ

[Nick Decker]

I don't know about the Gorilla wood glue, but Titebond works great for me.

As for the foamy poly stuff, I can't think of any joinery that I'd do where I wanted the glue to expand the joint. The one time I tried using it ended up with a mess.

[dennis thompson]

I assume you're talking about the polyurethane glue. I've used it and it works fine. The foaming can be an issue and it stains my fingers. I use it for certain applications but I mostly stick with PVA because it's an easy glue to use.

Mike

Be specific. Gorilla markets polyurethane glue, PVA glue, epoxy, and super glue.

The glue I bought says " wood glue, no foaming,type ll,use indoor or outdoor, water resistant, dries natural color". I looked on Amazon and it says it's new, there were no reviews. The bottle also says"works with radio frequency gluing systems" whatever that means.

[Chris Padilla]

Polyurethane glues (Gorilla Glue's original product when they first entered the market) have their places. I'm not sure about the strength issue but they do have the ability to bond almost anything to almost anything. Below are some of my experiences with the Gorilla POLY glue:

One of the best things I found out about poly glues is with veneering. If you press a veneer and it doesn't come out so well (bubbles and such), you can just smear poly glue over the offending area, add some wax paper, and clamp it. The poly glue will soak through the veneer and reattach it--you don't need to slit the bubble and shove glue in there! It doesn't even matter why the veneer bubbled...the poly glue will stick it back down. Here is the next best part: when you sand the poly glue off the veneer, it takes finishes with no issues. I once had to apply poly glue on almost the entire surface of a poorly applied veneer (I was trying something and suffice it to say, it did not work) once. Upon coming out of the repressing, the whole surface was this opaque, milky yellow color of the poly glue. So I just continued hoping and sanded the glue off. Frankly, I was amazed I did not sand through the veneer. This was a commercial veneer so really thin. I applied my usual finish and the result were simply spectacular and made me a believer. That veneered panel is in my master bathroom and doing fine although I would not be able to tell you which panel it is!!

I will mention a failure I had and that was with gluing ipe. I sandwiched together a few ipe deck boards to make something thicker and decided to use poly glue as I'd heard that it handled oily woods well. Some of the pieces I glued failed and came apart at the glue joint. These parts were outside and exposed to the weather but I don't think they even made it 6 months before failing. I'll have to remake the parts again but I'll try TB-III--my standard wood glue.

As to Gorilla WOOD Glue, I have never used it. I would hold the GG WOOD glue in one hand and the TB-III in the other and compare them and see what you think. I'm sure the Gorilla product is just fine as my experience with the products has generally been good...except for their poly glue on ipe.

[Chris Padilla]

I don't know about the Gorilla wood glue, but Titebond works great for me.

As for the foamy poly stuff, I can't think of any joinery that I'd do where I wanted the glue to expand the joint. The one time I tried using it ended up with a mess.

Excessive foaming is likely a result of, IMO, incorrectly ADDING extra water to the pieces being joined. Don't do it...the poly gets plenty from the wood and air around it. I know the bottle says to do this but trust me and just skip that step. Further, the foaming does not expand the joint...it isn't strong enough to do that. It is just a byproduct of too much water and poly glues in general.

The glue I bought says " wood glue, no foaming,type ll,use indoor or outdoor, water resistant, dries natural color". I looked on Amazon and it says it's new, there were no reviews. The bottle also says"works with radio frequency gluing systems" whatever that means.

There are glues formulated to instantly cure when exposed to certain frequencies. You basically glue up your product and stick it in a mircowave oven type device (kinda sorta) and in 10 seconds of exposure, the glue has cured and is ready to go! Pretty cool, eh? I had no idea Gorilla WOOD glue could be cured like this. I always thought those were special formulations for industrial uses.

[Barry McFadden]

I have used the Gorilla Wood Glue numerous times and find it works great....

[Pat Barry]

One of the best things I found out about poly glues is with veneering. If you press a veneer and it doesn't come out so well (bubbles and such), you can just smear poly glue over the offending area, add some wax paper, and clamp it. The poly glue will soak through the veneer and reattach it--you don't need to slit the bubble and shove glue in there! It doesn't even matter why the veneer bubbled...the poly glue will stick it back down. Here is the next best part: when you sand the poly glue off the veneer, it takes finishes with no issues.

This sounds like witchcraft doesn't it? Almost too good to be true

[Mel Fulks]

This sounds like witchcraft doesn't it? Almost too good to be true

"witchcraft!?....one should know these are WEIGHTY matters and avoid being OVERLY IMPRESSED "
Cotton Mather

[Mike Henderson]

One of the best things I found out about poly glues is with veneering. If you press a veneer and it doesn't come out so well (bubbles and such), you can just smear poly glue over the offending area, add some wax paper, and clamp it. The poly glue will soak through the veneer and reattach it--you don't need to slit the bubble and shove glue in there! It doesn't even matter why the veneer bubbled...the poly glue will stick it back down. Here is the next best part: when you sand the poly glue off the veneer, it takes finishes with no issues. I once had to apply poly glue on almost the entire surface of a poorly applied veneer (I was trying something and suffice it to say, it did not work) once. Upon coming out of the repressing, the whole surface was this opaque, milky yellow color of the poly glue. So I just continued hoping and sanded the glue off. Frankly, I was amazed I did not sand through the veneer. This was a commercial veneer so really thin. I applied my usual finish and the result were simply spectacular and made me a believer. That veneered panel is in my master bathroom and doing fine although I would not be able to tell you which panel it is!!

That's very interesting, Chris. I've used poly glue on veneer bubbles because it sticks to anything but I always slit the veneer and inserted it under the veneer. I'll have to try your technique.

Just because I'm curious, how did you discover your technique?

Mike

[mike wacker]

My exprience with Gorilla glue its expensive and I just buy any of the other versions of the same chemical glue. Its messy and if you don't wear vynal gloves you'll have to wait a week or two for it to wear off your hands. The coolest trick I learned was to put parchment paper down under anything I'm gluing. The poly glue does not stick to it and you can peal it right off and reused the parchment paper time and again. As far as the foaming out of joints, time it right and you can slice it off cleanly when it is almost cured but not sticky.

[Barry McFadden]

My exprience with Gorilla glue its expensive and I just buy any of the other versions of the same chemical glue. Its messy and if you don't wear vynal gloves you'll have to wait a week or two for it to wear off your hands. The coolest trick I learned was to put parchment paper down under anything I'm gluing. The poly glue does not stick to it and you can peal it right off and reused the parchment paper time and again. As far as the foaming out of joints, time it right and you can slice it off cleanly when it is almost cured but not sticky.

I think people are not understanding what Dennis is asking. He is asking about Gorilla Wood Glue, which is neither messy or expensive. He is not asking about Gorilla Glue that foams up.