Shaper cutter

[Matt Roth]

I'm new the the world of shapers and have a bunch to learn. How is this cutter used? For making big doors? I can't see how this would work for cabinet rail and stiles. Thanks!

[keith micinski]

You cut a rail and then you flip it over to cut the style

[Matt Roth]

You cut a rail and then you flip it over to cut the style

It's really that simple? Flip the bit. Does it require a change in spindle height?

[keith micinski]

Usually not, that's the beauty of those bits and why I want one myself.

[keith micinski]

Although I see that the cutters are both on the same side so when you flipped it over you would have to reverse your shaper motor direction but I believe most shapers have a switch the allows you to reverse your motor easily.

[Matt Roth]

Wow. I'm even more excited to get this thing up and running!

[Justin Ludwig]

Key to making this work is having a cope sled that is the same thickness as your bushings.

My cope sled is exactly .25 thick, BUT I stick a piece of sandpaper to it so the parts don't slide. I bought a big set of shims that range from .0075 to .03 and they are color coded. When setting the cope, I have to install one "yellow and one matte". I don't use the cutter you reference but Freeborn's stackable cutters are reversible and exact in thickness - so changing over is the same for me except I don't have to reverse rotation (unless I climb cut the stick/pattern).

My set up for doors sounds confusing but goes like this:

Zero spindle to the table using a 1/2" bushing. Replace that 1/2" bushing with 3/8" bushing, 1 yellow and 1 matte shim and then 1/4" bushing. Install cope cutters. Run all the cope cuts.
Remove 1/4" bushing and shims. Install pattern cutters. Stick/groove all the pieces.

My cutters are stackable, but that requires moving the spindle up and down and lots of test pieces. This method I can change over and get exact results every time in a couple minutes.

[peter gagliardi]

Or, you could avoid the confusion, and spindle adjustment by getting, or making a version of the Aigner Contermax. Quick and simple, and spindle height is the same. I think they run about $150.00???

[Cary Falk]

I never thought about flipping the bit due to the reversing thing. I would have ran the cope, changed the height then run the stick with the opposite side down. I think it would be just as fast. Learn something new every day

[keith micinski]

I think the advantage hear is the fact that there is no need to change height which is usually the hard part in my experience. I generally have to make multiple test cuts to fine tune the height on the second cut and even then don't get it right. As far as I know this is as simple as loosening the nut and flipping and your done and everything should line up perfect. That having been said I have never used that one so I can't say that for a fact

[Justin Ludwig]

I think the advantage hear is the fact that there is no need to change height which is usually the hard part in my experience. I generally have to make multiple test cuts to fine tune the height on the second cut and even then don't get it right. As far as I know this is as simple as loosening the nut and flipping and your done and everything should line up perfect. That having been said I have never used that one so I can't say that for a fact

Only if you don't use a coping jig. Give me 30 minutes with your cope jig, a set of calipers and the Freeborn colored shims, and I'd have you set up where you get perfect change over without spindle height adjustment.

[keith micinski]

I have a coping jig but I also have a matched set of cutters so I have to absolutely have to change spindle heights. As near as I can tell the bit he is asking about isn't a two piece bit and can't be split apart so the only way I know to do it is either to flip it over or to lower the spindle height after making the first cuts with it raised up or vise versa.

[Bill Dufour]

I like to make a mark on the bad face of each piece. I run them through with the mark showing, this way the good show side is referenced so the good faces all come out flush. A little off is okay on the inside.
Bill D.

[Justin Ludwig]

I have a coping jig but I also have a matched set of cutters so I have to absolutely have to change spindle heights. As near as I can tell the bit he is asking about isn't a two piece bit and can't be split apart so the only way I know to do it is either to flip it over or to lower the spindle height after making the first cuts with it raised up or vise versa.

Correct. He'll have to flip the cutters and then reverse rotation on the motor - this only takes a minute or two. If you use the bushings that come with the shaper, they are incremental and machined to exact thicknesses. My bushings are 1", .75", .5" .375" and .25".

By zero'ing the spindle height with a 1/2 bushing - it creates a starting point for Freeborn's stackable cutters (I don't know what you use, and that's why I mentioned I'd need calipers to set it up). I don't stack the cutters - too much added weight and inertia for my 5hp Grizzly shaper.

By swapping the bushings and using shims to mimic the thickness differences in a coping sled (with or without sandpaper), you can merely flip or swap cutters without moving the height. I discovered this method in trial and error and since then, I can change over from cope to pattern in a matter of minutes and run one confirmation test piece before I get after it. Once I dialed in the shims needed, I haven't had to touch the spindle height.