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Thread: Moberg Small Router Plane Review

  1. #1

    Moberg Small Router Plane Review



    I had wanted to get a tool that was a little different and I needed a router plane. I'm a huge fan of small shop toolmakers and thus I discovered John Moberg through a friend who has one of his spokeshaves.

    I had an email conversation with John and I found him to be a gentleman, definitely a craftsman who knows what he's doing.

    Moberg's router plane is similar to a Stanley 271 but is significantly beefier (15 ozs!) and the stock is much thicker where you have grip thus it feels much more substantial. I have been building myself a new tool chest for the past 3 weeks and I've only used this one plane to cut all the dados and to true up the drawers.

    There's not a ton to say about a router plane but this one gets high marks from me. The stock is cast bronze which looks amazing to me. Another nice feature of this little workhorse is the fact that the blade can be set in either direction so you have both an open throat and a closed throat router in one tool. The stock is tapped on both sides so that the screw can get out of the way in tight spaces (very handy feature). The price is also nice on this piece as well.

    Anyways, great little tool from a great maker, just wanted to share.

  2. #2
    The things I look for in a small router plane is a depth stop so that when you're cutting a hinge mortise, you can control how deep you go. And second, I really like a threaded depth control so that when I go to change the depth of the cut, I can do it in a controlled fashion (a portion of a turn or multiple turns).

    With any router without a threaded depth control, if the blade slips while you're adjusting it, you have a problem getting it re-set to take the next cut. It certainly can be done, but you get a lot more control with a threaded depth control.

    Mike
    Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.

  3. #3
    Mike, you make some good points.

    In the case of this plane I just needed something simple and within my budget. It fit the bill and I'm enjoying owning and using it

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    Mr. Kirkland... I've googled a bunch but yet to get John Moberg 's internet address.

    Can you publish his contact info?

    Thanks,

    Terry

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Kirkland View Post
    Mike, you make some good points.

    In the case of this plane I just needed something simple and within my budget. It fit the bill and I'm enjoying owning and using it
    Dan, a threaded depth adjuster is not necessary. It is almost as easy to increase the depth of cut with a tap from a hammer. What is very useful is a depth stop. This is easy to add if the shaft has enough length. Go here.

    The one modification I would make is to add a slight flat to the shaft of the blade. This is for the screw to hold and prevent the round shaft turning, which it is vulnerable to do. That will fix any likelihood of such behaviour.

    The mass look good, as does the ergonomics.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  6. #6
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  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Derek Cohen View Post
    Dan, a threaded depth adjuster is not necessary. It is almost as easy to increase the depth of cut with a tap from a hammer. What is very useful is a depth stop. This is easy to add if the shaft has enough length. Go here.

    The one modification I would make is to add a slight flat to the shaft of the blade. This is for the screw to hold and prevent the round shaft turning, which it is vulnerable to do. That will fix any likelihood of such behaviour.

    The mass look good, as does the ergonomics.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    That's a fantastic suggestion and makes alot of sense, thanks Derek, Shouldn't be a problem at all to add one to it.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Derek Cohen View Post
    Dan, a threaded depth adjuster is not necessary. It is almost as easy to increase the depth of cut with a tap from a hammer. What is very useful is a depth stop. This is easy to add if the shaft has enough length. Go here.

    The one modification I would make is to add a slight flat to the shaft of the blade. This is for the screw to hold and prevent the round shaft turning, which it is vulnerable to do. That will fix any likelihood of such behaviour.

    The mass look good, as does the ergonomics.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Very good mod. I wonder if it might be better still if there were a vee groove rather than a flat, and a screw with a conical tip to engage the groove.
    Fair winds and following seas,
    Jim Waldron

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by James Waldron View Post
    Very good mod. I wonder if it might be better still if there were a vee groove rather than a flat, and a screw with a conical tip to engage the groove.
    There is a flat on the back of the blade that locks it in place when the screw is engaged. A groove might be a good modification as well, I might see about ordering a spare blade to try it

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
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    I have the Lie Nielsen 271 with all the blades and depth stop.

    It is a keeper.

  11. #11
    The voids in the casting turned me off straightaway. I admire the gentleman's ambition, but I don't see much difference between what a really well made one costs and what he is charging for this.

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