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Thread: New turning

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Harvey, Michigan
    Posts
    20,804
    Quote Originally Posted by Adam Petersen View Post
    Thanks Steve. I don't know why I couldn't beat that end grain. I was using a freshly sharpened bowl gouge (several actually as I tried to win the battle). I tried sheer scraping with them, I tried using my skew as a neg. rake scraper....I think maybe, reading the recent post about tearout, that I was cutting the wrong direction. I was moving large diameter to small diameter, but maybe the way I had it oriented I was cutting uphill and pulling up the fibers. I even put sanding sealer on it to lock the fibers but no avail. It was a fail in that regard, but a learning process so I'm not too frustrated. It's a process right? I'm pretty new at this.
    Adam,

    Anytime you get tearout it is because the wood is not being cut - it is being ripped out. Most times it is caused by cutting in the wrong direction and some times it is by a dull edge or incorrect tool orientation. Easiest way to find out is to change the direction of the cut.

    You said you were cutting from the large diameter to the small. Just something to consider, when you rough turn the outside of a bowl with the tenon secured with the tailstock - you cut from the smallest to the largest diameter. Opposite direction will cause tearout and most likely a good sized catch as the gouge self-feeds into the wood.

    The key to this whole learning thing is to experiment, ask lots of questions and then find out what works for you! Good luck!
    Steve

    “You never know what you got til it's gone!”
    Please don’t let that happen!
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  2. Beautiful work Adam. What brand hollower are you using?
    Jeff

  3. #18
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Sioux Falls, SD
    Posts
    372
    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Walters View Post
    Beautiful work Adam. What brand hollower are you using?
    Jeff
    Thanks Jeff. It's a homemade "steel snake" articulated arm hollower. I used a Jordan straight hollower and a Sorby hooker tool in the tool to hollow it.
    USMC '97-'01

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Posts
    1,561
    Blog Entries
    1
    Quote Originally Posted by Adam Petersen View Post
    Thanks Brian!

    Ahhhhh yes....osage orange. I really want to see it now. Next time I visit my sister in law in Illinois I'm bringing some of that home with me. They have a row of them along their fence that they hate and would love gone.
    Adam, bring lots of Anchorseal. This stuff likes to crack.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Asheboro,NC
    Posts
    133
    Nice Hollow form, like others have commented on, the black interrior is a nice touch. Members of my turning club have been using the black a lot lately.

    Jay

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    1,950
    Thought I already commented but I really like this one. Didn't realize you could layer those 3 finishes as they all seem so different. Will have to look into that combination myself.

    Good job.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Sioux Falls, SD
    Posts
    372
    Thanks Jay.

    Greg, you can layer finishes as long as they dry and you follow a few certain rules. BLO needs to be dry before you layer on top of it. It pops the colors in the wood and I like the way it looks so I like to put it on first. The de-waxed shellac seals the BLO from the Poly and is needed as a good layer between the poly and BLO. It works very well between laquer and poly, or things like that. It's probably not necessary, but I like the water based poly in the cold months here in SD because I can use it inside without choking everyone. It dries really fast too so I can build it quickly.
    USMC '97-'01

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