About Table Saws

[Paul K. Johnson]

I'm working this all out and have been thinking about it for several years. I've considered the PM1000 but I'm afraid I might regret not going with a 3 hp machine. All I've ever used is my DeWalt contractor saw and several miniature table saws meant for model-builders including a Microlux and a Byrnes.

So now I'm looking at Grizzly saws. Wood is a lot more expensive if I have sawyers thickness it for me instead of buying thicker wood. I got about 1/4 what I would have gotten for the same price last time I ordered so I'm not doing that again.

An electrician is coming by Monday morning to give me an estimate on putting 220 in my shop. I'll need an additional panel because my current one is completely used.

Anyway, that's just background. I'm not really asking for advice on any of that. But I always get advice on everything I didn't ask about anyway so advise away if you feel like it.

My real question is this. I have a router table that's huge. If I get a real cabinet saw something has to go. I could free up a lot of space getting rid of the router table. But it's a necessary tool for my business.

So I'd like a router extension on the table saw. But I like working from the end, not the side, when I'm routing. I also only want to have one fence - my Incra. I have two incra fences actually - one for a table saw that's still in the box and the other on my router table.

I know I can't put a router extension on the left side of the table but I'm wondering if I can mount it to an extension on the left side. I understand most people would just say mount it on the right but that gives me fence issues. And I like working from the end so the router fence would move opposite the table saw fence. I mean it would have to mount 180 degrees from the table saw fence for me to work the way I like.

So the issues I see with what I want is supporting those extensions on the left and remaining mobile. I have a buddy who will happily weld an angle-iron base for me with all the casters I want.

My shop is small and narrow so I have to turn the saw 90 degrees to make rips over 2' long.

So I guess I'm saying I know what I want to do. Does anybody see any reason why it will be an exceptionally bad/dangerous/irritating solution?

Thanks!

[Steve Demuth]

Can you explain the fence issue you see with a right-mounted router table?

[Paul K. Johnson]

Can you explain the fence issue you see with a right-mounted router table?

Sure. I'm standing at the end of the table - 90 degrees to where I'd be standing if I'm using the saw. I want the fence to come toward me so it's just like the table saw fence but it moves away from the blade and toward me on the right side of the table.

That won't work with an Incra fence because of the way it mounts. It would work fine with a regular fence which can be used on either side.

Just imagine the incra mounted on the left side of the blade and moving to the right. I guess I could set up a second mount and just remove the fence I'm not using. I've never set up their table saw fence so I only have a general idea of how it mounts.

[scott spencer]

Not sure I can answer your RT questions, but I do think it'd be much simpler to have a separate router fence....not only handier, but just a simpler setup overall.

Regarding your TS, if you do install 220v, I'd absolutely go with 3hp over a 120v motor...the increase is substantial and noticeable, not to mention that the machines that house true 3hp motors are generally much more robust under the hood than a 120v saw. I realize the categories get blurred these days, but I view the PM1000 as a top notch hybrid with cabinet mounted trunnions more than a true industrial cabinet saw...it's very different under the hood than a PM2000, even though they appear very similar externally. While a PM1000 may arguably have better fit and finish than a Grizzly, a G1023R series or G0690 are a step up in class to industrial cabinet saws, and have more robust underpinnings and more mass, not to mention 70%+ more horsepower.

If you go with 220v, you'd be a prime candidate for a good used cabinet saw since you already have an Incra fence....kinda hate to see you buy a new saw, and waste the stock fence, but I suppose you could sell the stock fence to offset cost.

[Paul K. Johnson]

I'm with you on the wasted fence. Before I buy a saw I plan to contact the seller and ask if I can buy it without. I'm pretty sure they'll all say no because it's a package deal or something like that.

I don't need a large table - 30 inch rip is all I need. Anything larger I can just cut with my track saw. I have no plan to ever build furniture where I need large, very accurate panels. Mostly the largest stuff I'll build will be utility benches where close enough is good enough.

It's my small stuff that needs to be deadly accurate. That's why I have the Byrnes with the micrometer fence.

I've never had much luck with anything I bought used. Usually there's an expensive repair in a month or two that I didn't see when I bought it. I'd rather pay more for new and have an actual warranty.

I am leaning toward the Grizzly. They have a 5 hp with a router table but the table is kind of lame. It won't take a router plate or a lift. So I would probably not use it and add a third party router extension table if I were to purchase that saw.

I don't think I need 5 hp though. The thickest I'll be ripping would be 9/4 hard maple and that would be unusual. Mostly I work in thicknesses of 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 and of course 3/4 boards that I can get locally (which means I didn't plan ahead and buy from a real sawyer) so now I'm wasting money at the home improvement for red oak which is the worst wood ever.

[Michelle Rich]

I have had a router set up on the left for 25 yrs..I don't understand your concern. Works great for me. I have a fence like an incra, and just slide it over and use as my router fence.

[Paul K. Johnson]

Everyone tells me I can't put the router on the left of a left-tilt saw because of the motor. That's why I'm thinking I need an extension table between the saw table and the router table extensions.

[scott spencer]

Everyone tells me I can't put the router on the left of a left-tilt saw because of the motor. That's why I'm thinking I need an extension table between the saw table and the router table extensions.

If you add the router table to the left extension, the router should clear the motor cover, but you'd probably need to remove the router to open the door. FWIW, not all left tilt saws have the motor on the left....just most. The newer Laguna Platinum is among the left tilt saws that have a right side motor cover, but the older Platinum was just like the G0690.

Also, if you have the electrical supply circuit to handle it, I'm sure 5hp would make child's play out of heavy ripping, but for hobby use 3hp has never remotely seemed insufficient to me, though 1.75hp may on occasion.

[Paul K. Johnson]

This is what I make that I sell. But I start with 8/4 lumber.

http://www.airfieldmodels.com/store/...s_are_made.htm

http://www.airfieldmodels.com/store/...s_are_made.htm

So mostly I'm cutting 3/16 baltic birch and hardwood to 3/8 x 1/2. But I do a lot of other stuff as a hobby.

[Paul K. Johnson]

I've been looking at a Laguna for a while as well and it's actually the one I settled on before I saw the Grizzly saws. The only problem I see with Laguna is that it has a wide table that would make the saw too large. The other option is to go with the 110 version and the 30" capacity.

The 4 hp looks good. It costs a lot more and has too wide of a table. I can call them and ask if I can get with 30" instead of 50".

[glenn bradley]

I've always had mine on the left and for the life of me cannot understand why you would put one on the right. Even if the right side is clear so you can stand at the router table facing the fence, the feed direction is opposite the tablesaw so you have to keep both areas open.

Some folks with the RT on the right reach over their saw to run the material against a router fence that places the material between the bit and the tablesaw blade; this method I do not get at all; how awkward . . . but, we are all different. Can a mounting location be designed so that you can shift your Incra fence to the left to use it with a left mounted router table?

Here's my rig from 8 years ago on a hybrid. The router table is in the same location bolted to my Saw stop today.

RT-and-TS-view-2.jpg

With the router table feed matching the tablesaw feed, all my material holding jigs can go from one to the other without issue. My outfeed support serves both and I gain surface area for both tools.

[Terry Therneau]

I have an incra fence that I move to multiple spots. The mount is bolted to a bit of plywood, and on the plywood are two miter track fixtures: the same kind that hold a fingerboard in position. I find that it works well. I have a delta HD shaper with a router table next to it, tops bolted together, and the pair of them are a nice wide outfeed for the unisaw. When using the router table the Incra is mounted in the shaper miter slot and vice versa when using the shaper. It's very solid, and I can move or remove it in a trice. (I have a dust hose connection on both ends of the wonderfence on the incra, with a cap over one. The dust hose drops down from the ceiling and is easier to hook to whichever is the westmost end.)

Terry T.

[Ray Selinger]

I put my router on the right side of my Unisaw wing. I have long bar so I added a slot and use my Unifence against the router fence.

[rudy de haas]

You may come to deeply regret giving up the independent router table. Mounting the router on the saw table works well for many people but you won't find it as nice as having independent devices. My "shop" is also small (long single car garage the car has to go into at night) so I have everything on wheels and just shoved against one end at night. it takes about 10 minutes to put things were I want them for use, and another 10 to put them away again - but everything works.
One note: good wheels are important for this - if you do this, don't cheap out on them.

[Chris Hachet]

Router could go either side IMHO, I like Incra fences and own one myself. If it were my money I would buy the
Grizzly 1023 and never ever look back.