Old Unisaw purchase advice

[Max Behrenbrinker]

Hello!
I've been an avid reader of the forums for a good while now. As I'm finally looking to expand the shop to include a proper table saw, finally making my first post.
I'm thinking about buying a Delta Unisaw and need some advice (see ad here: https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/a...014850626.html)

Summary of details:
- 10" Unisaw with 2 cast iron extension wings
- Delta Jetlock fence.
- miter gauge
- Delta blade guard and carbide blade.

**Originally had a three phase motor, previous owner replaced it with a mount adapter and standard base Dayton single phase 2 HP motor, 115/208-230 Volts 20.4/11.3-10.2 Amps. Wired 230 Volts.

I took a look at it the other day (it's in a local used tool shop), here are my main questions / concerns:

1. Blade tilt and height controls travel the full range without getting sloppy or stopping before the end. HOWEVER, they do require more effort to turn than I would have hoped, and produce a very unpleasant squeaky whine and slight vibration when turning. Am I correct in assuming this can be addressed with some proper cleaning, lubrication, etc? Or is there a larger concern to be aware of here?

2. Are there any concerns to be aware of with the replacement motor that has been installed in this machine? Admittedly I am not very familiar with different motor manufacturers.

3. Please share your general opinions as to the asking price of the saw ($499). They seemed pretty firm when I tried to get some wiggle room, said they'd already reduced it once. But it has been out there for over a month in a market where good deals on saws like this get snapped up in 24hours.. so it does bring out the skeptic in me a bit.

Thanks so much in advance for any advice, really appreciate this community. you've all helped me get through the first year of a MAJOR project first home purchase without loosing my mind

[Mike Henderson]

That seems a bit expensive for that saw. And 2HP is about the minimum HP acceptable for a cabinet saw.

Personally, I'd look for a more modern saw with a riving knife, just for the safety aspect. The advantage of a real riving knife over a splitter, like a sharkguard, is that the riving knife moves with the blade (up and down and side-to-side) and can always stay on the saw, even when you're not making a through cut. Because of that, you tend to use it. Many people stop using a splitter because they have to take it off and remember to put it back on.

A good cabinet saw is a lifetime purchase so I'd want one I could stay with, and with as many safety features as possible.

Mike

[Mike Kees]

Hi Max.I am kind of a Unisaw junkie,is there any way you could post pictures of this saw-motor setup. Jetlock fences are decent ,however I personally would be way more excited about a a unifence or biesmeyer fence. The riving knife issue can be addessed with a sharkguard. I think because of the motor setup and fence combined with a not great price that I would be inclined to pass and keep looking for a better saw. Mike.

[scott spencer]

It's not the best deal I've seen on an older Uni, and I don't love the fence, but it's not a bad deal IMO. Can you get more saw for $499 anywhere else? It could be while....there's not currently a lot in your area, but that could change at any time. Figure ~ $200 for something like a Delta T3 fence (minus ~$50 if you resell the jetlock fence). I'd try offering $400-$425 and see where it goes.

[Matt Day]

I agree with Mike about the motor adapter. Generally the cabinet needs to be cut since the old oval opening design doesn't allow much room for error. So my concern would be you're. It going to get full travel out of the elevation or tilt mechanisms. When you looked at it did you check that you got all the way to 45 and the blade raised all the way?

If I were you I'd write off the fence especially with the reduced capacity.

Regarding the riving knife comment, there is also a disappearing splitter with pawls that should work.

Regarding the noisy and hard to adjust gears, they like are caked with pitch and dust and likely need a good clean and wax. I'd plan to pull the top off and give the guts a good clean. The top likely needs to be adjusted too.

I'd offer $400 and mention the issues going on and the money you'll have to put into it.

Good luck!

[Tim McCarthy]

Hi!

I have an old Unisaw, made the same year and month I was born (7-50). I suggest taking the best 10" blade you have, put it on the saw, start and stop it. Watch the blade, especially as it slows to a stop. Try to get a light background behind it and see if the blade wavers side to side as it comes to a stop. Wavering would indicate a bent arbor shaft. If not, and no weird noises are heard then all is well and the saw just needs some TLC. IF the blade wavers side to side or weird noises are heard then offer significantly less and explain why. These saws were built (especially the OLD ones) to last for generations and and will do so unless abused. If it looks like it's had careful use it probably has. If it looks like it's been abused, it probably has; look for another.

My .02

Regards,

Tim

[Carroll Courtney]

Well keep in mind that someone at one time made a living at using that saw and that fence,I don't think to many hobbyist could afford that saw back in the 50's.There is better fences on the market but that fence will work.That saw has the cast iron base and maybe had a flat panel in the bottom.Since the motor has been change out already then you should be good for yrs to come.Safety?Well common sense goes along ways,like others said bit it needs a good cleaning.For me if it was an individual selling it then that person would know the history.A business has mark it up plus there will be taxes which would put it out of my range.For you that may be different,its still a good saw but only a fair price.If you should get it there better be pics.Good luck sir with your decision----Carroll

[Cary Falk]

I bought one in similar shape years ago for $400. I paid too much. It is from a business so it might have been rode hard and put away wet. Yo might want to check that they didn't mess up anything up with their motor mount mod. Sounds like a tear down of the internals to get it running smooth. Arbor bearings might need replaced also. That fence is not my cup of tea. How much is your time worth?

[Chris Hachet]

Yes, you could buy it for 400 or 425 but at 500 you are still buying an Industrial/commercial level tool. This is pretty much at some point going to wind up being a restoration project for you. The next cheapest good option is probably going to be a used Asian saw such as a steel City or General International cabinet saw or the like, or say a New Grizzly saw. You can get a saw in better condition but you will need to spend more.

I paid 500 for a Used Unisaw but it was in much better condition than the saw in question. Also a three horsepower motor would make actually using the saw much better.

[Bill Bukovec]

My experience with that seller ( when I lived up there) is, they ask way too much for all of their tools. I agree with the previous comment that 3 hp should be a minimum.

[Matt Day]

There are lots of folks with old Unisaws who do just fine with 1 or 1.5 hp motors.

[Ray Frederick]

I've built dozens of windows, entry doors, and other hardwood projects commercially with a small much smaller than 3hp. Heck I use the 1/2hp shopsmith 10er in saw mode sometimes, made a white oak shop cabinet with it out of 5/4 just other day. Unless you are ripping thick stock, raising panels, or resawing one can often run a smaller blade. Makes a very very big difference.

I know of a boatbuilder who built countless boats with a 1hp tablesaw ripping and dadoing mahogany, oak, and teak. The right choice of blades, featherboards, etc.. goes a long way

[Mike Henderson]

There are lots of folks with old Unisaws who do just fine with 1 or 1.5 hp motors.

There's no doubt that you can do very good woodwork with a table saw with a 1 to 1.5HP motor. The first saw I had was a Craftsman job site saw with a 1HP motor and I built a bunch of stuff. But eventually, I bought a saw with a 3HP motor and what a difference. No more bogging down the saw if I fed stock too fast.

If the OP is looking to purchase a "rest of my life" cabinet saw, I'd certainly recommend a saw with a minimum of 3HP.

Back when those Unisaws were made, electric motors were very expensive and 1 to 1.5HP is all they could put on them and still sell them for a reasonable price. Higher HP motors are available today for very reasonable prices.

Mike

[Chris Hachet]

My experience with that seller ( when I lived up there) is, they ask way too much for all of their tools. I agree with the previous comment that 3 hp should be a minimum.

The ideal way to buy used woodworking machines IMHO is to hang around other woodworking people and mention that you are in the market. Buying a tool that is complete, tuned up and often has extras included beats the living crap out of dealing with most used tool dealers on the net. There are exceptions, but they are pretty rare.

[Dick Brown]

The price you pay should not be an issue! It's what you get for the price you pay. I refurbish old table saws as a hobby and sometimes I get old ones for free and that can even be too much if it takes more time and parts to fix them than they are worth when done. Would give that one a very hard look before I took it home at that price.