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Thread: Auger bits

  1. #16
    Thanks guys I'm on the fence about this one. Not sure if I want to just buy a normal set of twist drill bits and a power drill. I'd rather have the quiet, peaceful brace bits. I have a lot to ponder over and with the need for a plane (5 jack has been recommended as a first plane to get) I don't want to spend a lot on bits.

    Will take this slowly.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Edmond, Oklahoma
    Posts
    1,750
    Scott,

    A couple of items clarify or to add.

    You mentioned using a drill to chuck the hex shanked bits in. That should be fine, as the modern bits with hex shanks are designed to be used in a drill. However, the old tapered square ended shank type were not designed to be used in a modern drill. They were designed to cut with a slow rotation, due to the hand turned brace. So if you cut off the square fitting and grind the shank to where it is straight and round to fit a modern chuck in a drill, the drill will turn it more rapidly than it was designed to cut, and in some cases it will cut like blue blazes, and may try to get away from you to an extent.

    Thus, the old auger bits that I have, which the old carpenter owned before I got them, which had the chuck fitting cut off and the shank ground to remove the taper are only the ones in a small size, maybe 3/8ths or 5/16ths at the largest. The larger sizes would put too much torque load on most drills, particularly 3/8" drills that turn at a relatively high RPM value. They might be OK in a very slow RPM big 1/2" drill that you have to hold with both hands even to operate. (I am talking about one of the really big he man drills, normally only that pros own, those who build large concrete forms, etc.)

    The drill I use with these "cut off chuck fitting bits" is a 1/2" drill with a maximum RPM of about 600, if I remember correctly. Certainly not the 1200 RPM versions. That drill is not beast enough to pull one of the larger old style auger bits, and because of it's torque, it will pull a lot bigger bit than the higher RPM drills. You have to be careful, however, because if a large bit catches, the drill will try to twist your hands and wrists badly, that is another reason to keep the size of the cut off type of bits to the small sizes.

    Finally, I don't think I made clear the issue with the twist steel bit chuck, which Mike shows. My version of this chuck will only take a 1/4" shank, no larger, so you are limited as to how large a bit you can use. Mike's version may be a step up from mine, and it is possible that ones are available that will take larger bits.

    Finally, I have auger bits that go up to and include 1 1/4" bits. It is a pain to try to pull one of these big bits with the standard 10" sweep brace, even if you are just trying to drill thru fir or pine, it would be virtually impossible with a 3/8" drill. For that reason, I finally bought a 14" sweep brace. Of course, it has to be said that I am not a big guy, and certainly not a spring chicken, but am probably of average strength for my a bit smaller than average size. You stout 250 lbs guys may not have much trouble with the 10" sweep brace and the 1 1/4" bits, I don't know.

    The real problem for the smaller braces, however, are the expansion bits. If I use mine to drill a really big hole, like 2 1/2" holes this is a huge problem. The 14" swing really comes into it's own on the expansion bits. It may be that I was thinking of the expansion bit rather than the 1 1/4" auger bit.

    Regards,

    Stew
    Last edited by Stew Denton; 03-21-2017 at 11:53 PM.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    twomiles from the "peak of Ohio
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    12,171
    Most of mine..
    auger bits.jpg
    Actually, this is about half of them.....the braces...
    braces.jpg
    6" up to a 14" sweep. I found that the eggbeaters and the big breastdrill have a three jaw chuck, and work just fine holding round shanked bits...
    eggbeaters.jpg
    I have also used the larger taps in a brace, held just fine, as did a hex bit holder. Usually in the two jawed braces. The slot in the jaws does hold hex and round shafts. YMMV

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Longview WA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott Archi View Post
    Thanks guys I'm on the fence about this one. Not sure if I want to just buy a normal set of twist drill bits and a power drill. I'd rather have the quiet, peaceful brace bits. I have a lot to ponder over and with the need for a plane (5 jack has been recommended as a first plane to get) I don't want to spend a lot on bits.



    Will take this slowly.
    One thing I was lucky to find at second hand/junk shops was an old metal twist drill index for size 1 through 60 bits. Not long after another was found, not quite as nice but a good one.

    If there are enough junk and second hand shops in an area this is pretty good way to get started with one's drill bit accumulation.

    Recently found during the pre/post Christmas sales a new plastic drill index for fractional sizes. All of this was less than $25.

    My most used bits in the shop are actually the ones made to pre-drill screw holes.

    As for auger bits, even though I have a set with extras I always have my eyes open when out and about. One no name set of mine came via ebay with a corner brace for ~$20. The box holding the bits has been refilled with good Irwin bits as they have been acquired.

    It is so tempting to jump in and buy tools, it is best to not be in a hurry.

    I found that the eggbeaters and the big breastdrill have a three jaw chuck, and work just fine holding round shanked bits...
    Odd but true, one of my breast drills has a two jaw chuck. Not too good for auger bits, but back in the day a lot of bits had square tangs.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Dickinson, Texas
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    My bits are 1/4" through 1", the complete set. I keep them sharp and rust free. They are in a wooden box. As I stated earlier, they were my father's.
    It sure is nice to bore the hole I want when I want to do it. (Yes, that is a gloat.)

    If you decide to buy new bits, I would suggest you get either a half set or a full set. That will give you enough to drill what ever you want and the bits will be sharp and cut clean holes.

    Sometimes, we just have to suck it up and pay the price. A cheap tool is most often not used and the money is wasted. Anyway, that's my tool philosophy.

  6. #21
    Couldn't agree more about the cheap tools.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Bakerton WV
    Posts
    259
    At the onset of spring, I have found this to be the prime time to seek outdoor flea markets for tools. Auger bits are amongst the most common items, many bits I have run across have been in very good to unused and cheap under a dollar each and one could haggle for a fistful for $5 or under. Pay particular attention to the feed screws and spur height.

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