Originally Posted by
Malcolm Schweizer
There are, as already stated, 100 times as many opinions on this as there are waterstones. I now sharpen knives for top local chefs along with tools for a local workshop. I somewhat collect waterstones. I enjoy playing around with different stones. Here is my take on the subject:
First of all, any reputable brand- Naniwa, Suehiro, Shapton, King, even Norton, and others- will get you good results. The differences are in cutting speed, hardness, fineness of slurry, trueness of grit... I could go on, but in general they will still yield good results.
Shapton makes a very nice stone. The Shapton Glass is probably the best "bang for your buck" deal out there. They cut fast and leave a fine edge. The main drawback is that they don't make a very "muddy" slurry. I prefer a softer stone that makes a slurry, but I own and use a full set of Shapton Glass. The best thing is they do not need soaking. They are splash and go.
Shapton Pro and Naniwa Professional (in Japan they are Chosera) are excellent stones. There are differences, but overall great stones and I will not split hairs (no pun intended!) over the differences in this thread.
Norton makes a great entry set. It is what I started with because I was an oil stone guy wanting to try waterstones and didn't want to spend a lot of money, but wanted something reputable. The set they offer with 220, 1000, 4000, and 8000 is a perfect starter. The 220 isn't very fast cutting for the grit, and the 8000 is very soft, but they work well overall. The set comes with a flattening stone. This is a MUST. You need some way to flatten them. You can use sandpaper on a flat plate (i.e. One made specifically for flattening) but I am against using sandpaper for flattening stones due to grit contamination. That said- it's another splitting hairs thing. It's not the end of the world if you get a little grit in your stone, but it is wrong, so just get a flattening stone or spend $$$$ for a DMT dia-sharp. Mine is many years old and still going strong.
Suehiro Gokumyo stones- excellent, and the price goes with it. They make a lower priced "Cerax" stone. I have not tried it.
King- great entry stone. I find them to be "gritty" feeling.
Sigma gets a good review but I have not personally tried them.
Only a few of the many options.
As for grit, I always say spend the most money on your finishing stone- 8000 grit or higher. On a budget, 5000 will do just fine, but get the best one you can afford. The finishing stone is the one that matters most. I recommend getting a good 8k, 4K, 1k or similar range to start. If you can afford it, get a coarse stone 400 or less for tending to chipped blades, flattening backs, and setting bevels. Sandpaper will get you by until you can afford a coarse stone. The difference is the waterstones leave a finer finish with shallower scratch pattern that is easier to polish out with each grit progression.
Whatever you choose, remember- if it gets the tool sharp enough to leave a smooth finish, then you have achieved your goal regardless of what method you chose. Don't worry too much over the nit-picking details of microscopic scratch patterns. Just get started and eventually you will get a feel for waterstones, and things that I won't try to sell you on now will suddenly make more sense. It's the old learning to ride a tricycle before riding a bike analogy. Get a decent stone from a reputable manufacturer and start playing around with it. When you start longing for a finer finish, then move up, and then things like "the feel of the stone" will make more sense.