need a jointer

[lowell holmes]

I bought my 607 bedrock on line.

Check the auction site.
Also, Amazon sells them.

[Chris Hachet]

I bought my 607 bedrock on line.

Check the auction site.
Also, Amazon sells them.

A very fine plane, I love the bedrock design.

[Wes Ramsey]

Huh...I always assumed that flat meant flat. I hadn't considered that there were degrees of hand plane flat and machined flat. I still want to remove a little thickness to get rid of some imperfections, but maybe I just need a well-tuned smoother. I originally was considering a #6 foreplane - would that fit the bill here?

[lowell holmes]

I have a #6 bailey, but I go to the 607 bedrock for jointing. The #6 will do in a pinch.

[Chris Hachet]

Huh...I always assumed that flat meant flat. I hadn't considered that there were degrees of hand plane flat and machined flat. I still want to remove a little thickness to get rid of some imperfections, but maybe I just need a well-tuned smoother. I originally was considering a #6 foreplane - would that fit the bill here?

That will depend on your level of skill. For a very long time I used a #5 vintage Stanley to joint everything. Tuneup and proper practice/technique matter far more than what size or vintage plane is being used.

However to answer your question, a #4 would be fantastic for smoothing the actual top, a #6 or #7 would be great for edge jointing.

[Jim Koepke]

My #6s get used for flattening, jointing and smoothing. A good plane for many jobs.

jtk

[bridger berdel]

These days the "premium" makers are pushing heavy planes. I have my theories as to why this is, but the bottom line is a heavy smoother is an ok thing, but a heavy jointer will make you hate woodworking in short order. I'd take a #7 size transitional before an overweight LN #7 anyday.

[Hasin Haroon]

Wes, to respond to your question about the woodriver set, that is a good set and it sounds like a pretty good price for the 3 planes. Wood river make good planes and are a bit cheaper than the LNs or the Veritas. I am a veritas man myself, being in Canada, so I'll throw this into the mix - have you considered getting a Low Angle Jack from veritas? It will smooth very well, and will also do just fine as a jointer, at 15" long. And you can set it up to do different tasks in the future for the price of a different blade, e.g. a 25 degree blade for end grain, a 35 degree for regular tasks and a 50 degree blade for difficult smoothing tasks. LN makes a pretty good one too, but the veritas innovations to the design make the LA choice pretty easy for me.

[john zulu]

I guess I was just assuming that a longer plane would equate to a flatter surface. The current thickness is 7/8" and I'm aiming for ~3/4".

The table is a simple 4'x5' draw leaf table with 15" leaves. The wood is primarily red oak bordered in post oak with post oak breadboard ends. The breadboard pins are walnut, as are the wedges for the through tenons on the aprons. It is all from trees we cut out of our yard 4 years ago and sawed at my FIL's mill. I've made some goofs that are annoying, but nothing yet I couldn't recover from. I figure I have to make some goofs here and there to learn not to next time. And it is just wood. The simple design is almost modular and there's no hardware. If the goofs I can't fix bug me enough I can always rebuild just that part.

I will post pics when I get it done.

Also been meaning to post some pics and videos of our sawmill in action. It is an OOOOLD circular mill my FIL modified to run off the PTO on his tractor. Right now it has a 36" blade, but we also have a 46" for the big stuff. I'll shoot some video next weekend when we try to make a dent in our log collection.

With that thickness I would use a scrub plane then hit it with a jointer. But it is very possible to use a jointer for the whole process with 2 blades. One blade to hog out the board first and another to finally level it.

[lowell holmes]

I also have a 5 1/2 Bailey that is a good jointing plane. It is a long, wide plane.