Table top refinishing problem

[Fred Renich]

I am refinishing a table top. The top was distressed so I sanded it with a belt sander and removed all the old finish and distress marks and got down to clean wood. I applied a Minwax stain to the top and let it dry for just under 24 hours. It felt dry to the touch. When I applied the first coat of polyurethane color separated from the stain and mixed with the polyurethane and in many places formed dark colored bubbles. The end of my brush was actually colored with the stain color. When I used 220 sand paper to lightly sand the polyurethane it went down to the wood in places. I realize I will probably need to re-sand the top and then refinish it. Has this happened to anyone else and if so how do you avoid it?

[Brice Rogers]

I'm surprised.

Some of the minwax stains are water based and some are oil based. The water based products set up more quickly. In either case, I would re-read the instructions to make sure that if you use the water based product that you also need to use the water-based poly and vice-versa.

You didn't mention whether or not you wiped off the excess stain after applying. I think that is important. It sounds like there was excess pigment laying on the surface that went into solution when you started brushing.

If you wiped it thoroughly I perplexed. I could only suggest that if you re-do, that you spray on a shellac-based sanding sealer before putting on the poly.

I'll stand by and read responses by others who may be more knowledgeable than I am.

[Wayne Lomman]

Some general principles.

Before you start, make sure your whole coating system is compatible. The best advice is usually where you buy the product. Not all stains work well with all coatings.

When staining always ensure excess is wiped off. You apply stain fast and wet and then wipe off the excess so that the surface is only damp. Then let it dry the recommended length of time.

Only apply a light first coat of finish to hold the stain. You always get some colour dissolve into the coating. Only sand very lightly after this coat. 220 is too coarse. 320 will be much better, especially a half worn piece. Sand it a bit more after your second and subsequent coats to de-nib it properly.

I would suggest stripping back and starting again, sorry. The sanded through patches will be hard to get right. Cheers

[Fred Renich]

The stain and polyurethane are Minwax products. Both are oil based and matched to each other. When I put the stain on and let it set for just a few minutes and then wiped off the excess. I suppose it was on the wood 5-7 minutes. Prior to staining I sanded the wood with an random orbital sander using 220 grit. Perhaps I should have sanded in the direction of the wood grain by hand.

[John TenEyck]

My guess is the stain wasn't really dry/cured. DAMHIK. You didn't say what the temp. and RH were where you are working. If the temp. is less than 60F and the RH greater than 60% it can take a looooong time for OB stains to cure enough that you can topcoat them using a brush.

Strip off what you've already done and start over. Don't sand it, you've sanded it enough. Get some KleanStrip Premium and follow the directions. It'll be off there in 30 minutes. Neutralize, let dry, then start anew. Make up a test board at the same time. Use the test board to prove when the stain has dried enough to be top coated. I'd wait at least 2 days before even thinking about it.

John