Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 26

Thread: Will Zero Clearance insert help with DC

  1. #1

    Will Zero Clearance insert help with DC

    Just got my Grizzly G1023rlwx table saw set up this week and I've begun putting some stock through it - mostly walnut for a cutting board I'm making. So far I'm pleased with it. I have a 4" hose at the DC port, and it's connected to my shop vac. The biggest problem so far is dust spraying back on me from the blade.

    I'm still using the factory insert. Will a zero clearance insert help with DC?

  2. #2
    nope.

    A zero clearance plate is so there's more support for the material, and less tear out, or chipping in materials like melamine.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    N.E, Ohio
    Posts
    3,029
    IMHO, unless you have over the blade dust collection you will likely have poorer dust collection since none of the dust will be sucked downward.
    George

    Making sawdust regularly, occasionally a project is completed.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    West Lafayette, IN
    Posts
    6,530
    It actually makes dust spray back worse if you don't have over the table dust collection.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Central Missouri, U.S.
    Posts
    1,263
    You may also be suffering from adapting your 2-1/2" shop vac hose to a 4" dust port. May not be moving enough air.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    McKean, PA
    Posts
    15,635
    Blog Entries
    1
    Make sure you have an air inlet into the base of your saw that is the same size as the air outlet. If you don't have air going into the saw base, you won't be sucking any air and chips out.
    Lee Schierer
    USNA '71
    Go Navy!

    My advice, comments and suggestions are free, but it costs money to run the site. If you found something of value here please give a little something back by becoming a contributor! Please Contribute

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Highland MI
    Posts
    4,520
    Blog Entries
    11
    Even with a giant dust collector hooked up at the bottom collection point, unless you have dust collection on top of the blade, you are going to continue having the problem.
    NOW you tell me...

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Bulverde, Tx
    Posts
    28
    Quote Originally Posted by Ole Anderson View Post
    Even with a giant dust collector hooked up at the bottom collection point, unless you have dust collection on top of the blade, you are going to continue having the problem.
    What he said.

    I actually got fed up with the constant spray of sawdust in my face and did a lot of research into over the blade dust collection. The SawStop dust guard/collector seemed to get get consistently top reviews. I had a riving knife made to allow me to use it on my Powermatic PM1000. I use a hose from my shop-vac that drops from the ceiling so I never have to worry about it getting in the way of larger sheet goods. I use the same hose for dust collection on my router fence, while the big 4" to my actual dust collector stays underneath the table where the bulk of the dust is collected. I can EASILY raise the cover if I want to actually see the blade when making a cut, but I find I never really need to.

    It is night and day better, fantastic dust collection and VERY easy to use.

    20170323_085423.jpg20170323_085454.jpg20170311_095046.jpg

  9. #9
    Even if you go with topside collection, wear a respirator or dust mask.
    Have good shop ventilation +/- filtration.

    Be aware that some species of wood like walnut and cedar can be especially irritating to the lungs.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Sacramento, CA
    Posts
    2,005
    Yea the SawStop one is awesome. Love it on my 3HP PCS. I have seen a number of people around the net retrofit it onto a non-SawStop saw. Seems like a great option.
    If at first you don't succeed, redefine success!

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Bucks County, PA
    Posts
    973
    I'll add a +1 to the use of the SawStop guard. I have that rigged up on my Ridgid TS and it's amazing how much dust it collects. It doesn't work that well when you're crosscutting if your miter fence lifts the guard too high. Same if you're doing cuts where you're only removing a small amount. But otherwise it works really well.
    And there was trouble, taking place...

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    West Lafayette, IN
    Posts
    6,530
    Nice setup Steve! I'll have to look into that.

  13. #13
    I have a SharkGuard on mine - it works great - just have to be patient when ordering as they get busy and it can take a while

    IMHO a shop vac is not going to pull the CFM to really capture all the dust from a TS - better than nothing but not in the same league as a real DC (even a mobile one)

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Bucks County, PA
    Posts
    973
    Quote Originally Posted by Erik Christensen View Post
    I have a SharkGuard on mine - it works great - just have to be patient when ordering as they get busy and it can take a while

    IMHO a shop vac is not going to pull the CFM to really capture all the dust from a TS - better than nothing but not in the same league as a real DC (even a mobile one)
    The wait on the SharkGuard is why I went with the SawStop model instead. Plus the SawStop model can work with a shop-vac, although I have mine hooked up to a DC.
    And there was trouble, taking place...

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Concord, NC
    Posts
    88
    Man, seeing these pics has me thinking about ditching my Grizzly overarm guard and going with a Shark Guard. I like how close you can get the fence to the blade with the Shark.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •