New Saw Setup Advice

[Adam Merritt]

I recently upgraded my table-saw to a SawStop PCS31230 with an Incra TS-LS Joinery package (72''). I have it "set-up", but realize I need to do some fine tuning of the extensions and then blade/fence parallelism to the miter slot. I am new to this forum, and, to this quality of tool in general, so I hope you'll forgive me if my questions are a little on the uneducated side of things. I realize I may have bought a little more than I need as a hobbyist, but I would rather buy once, and cry once to have a little more than I need now so I don't end up regretting and buying again later. Also, I fully understand that adjust to .001 tolerances aren't required, and that wood will move beyond that with humidity changes, but I would prefer my tools be as accurate as possible, so any issues that arise are solely my fault. I don't mind being the problem; it just lets me know where I need to improve. Here are a few pictures of it now, but I still have a long ways to go.

For the extension tables, how close to co-planar should I aim for? In my initial attempt at leveling them, I could not seem to get the entire extension perfectly level. For instance, I could get the front half level to the point I couldn't feel any difference between the two segments, nor would a fingernail catch running in either direction. However, when I would attempt to bring the back half into the same alignment, I would throw the front off slightly, and thus began a vicious back and forth struggle. I did purchase a Taylor Toolworks 38'' straight edge (supposedly accurate to .001''/ft, but without another confirmed straight edge to test, I can't say for sure it is that accurate), but couldn't find my feeler gauges at the time. My goal was to get it as close to perfect as I could by touch, and then use feeler gauges to go from there. Aside from loosening the bolts and using dead blow hammers to adjust (I have a 1lb and 4lb), is there a better way? What tolerances should I strive for between the main table and extensions?

I have played around with the Incra TS-LS fence and have it adjusted fairly parallel to the left miter slot. I bought an iGaging digital saw gauge which I'm not that impressed with. It has magnets on one side to hold against the miter slot and spring loaded bearings on the back. 2 of the three small magnets have already come loose in the few days I've tried to use it. However, I used that holder and adjusted the Incra fence with both the digital dial indicator and a mechanical Taylor Toolworks. If I zero at the front end of the fence, I see between readings from <-.0005'' .0000'' from the front to middle, and then from .000'' to .0015'' variance total to the back edge of the miter slot. I would assume this must be acceptable, but let me know if you think otherwise. Also, I noticed when I placed the dial indicator in the very center of the fence and used the micro adjust knob to bring the fence forward .001'', it takes about 3 clicks before I see any real movement. After that, each click of the wheel brings it right at .001'' as expected. It would seem that the Incra positioner has about .003'' slack that has to be taken up before it really starts moving. Is that normal operation (this is my first time with an Incra system)?

Finally, I haven't started to calibrate the blade/arbor to the miter slot. I briefly looked last night and it seems from the center of the arbor to the front is about -.001'' and arbor to the rear is .0025''. I plan to go by the manual and adjust all three axis parallel, but again, any advice is welcome.

[Lee Schierer]

Welcome to the creek. It sounds like you are going in the right direction. Tuning your saw as close as possible will yield less work and problems with your woodworking. Your fence sounds about normal.

The best way to align your arbor to the miter slot is to use a flat plate or machined flat bar attached to your arbor. A saw blade will work, but to eliminate any variations in the blade, mark your reference spot on the blade with a magic marker so you always touch the same spot. Do not try to use a tooth as most have a slight angle on the sides of the teeth..

[Adam Merritt]

Thanks! I found I stumbled upon these forums over and over again in Google searches, so I figured I might as well join. Looks like a great community so far. I was using the same spot on the blade, but the idea of a nice flat bar appeals as well. Is there one in particular you know of and like? (I'm sure someone makes one, and I will google that next, but figured it is worth asking if you have a recommendation.)

[Roger Feeley]

To me, co-planer could be one of two things.
1. the wing isn't quite level with the main bed meaning that you can catch your fingernail a bit. I don't view that as a big problem. a 64th of an inch at 18" from the blade isn't going to cause much of an issue. But you would like to get it right and right is right, not almost right.
2. The wing isn't parallel with the bed meaning that it tilts up or down. That, to me would be the bigger problem and some shimming is probably in order.

Regarding adjustment, check out "pals cts alignment" on Amazon. It's for aligning the trunions on a contractor saw but I don't see why you couldn't adapt the idea for the wings. I have the SS ICS and when I put mine together, I had the same problem as you. I will probably make something like these using angle iron or something.

Check out this url. It's a wood magazine article about lining up the trunions on a contractor saw using PALS. Scroll down to see a drawing that illustrates what they do.

I see that your PCS has 4 bolts holding the wing to the bed. If it were me, I would install the PALS on the outermost bolts and use the inner two bolts to tighten and support the wing as you experiment. You play around with the PALS to get it right and then remove them and replace them with the normal bolts.


What I don't know about the PALS as sold is if the distance between the long side of the L and the screw is greater than the thickness of the cast iron on your main bed where the bolts go. Your adjuster has to clear the main web to put the adjustment screw under the wing. My guess is that you will have to make something. Just take some 1/4" thick angle, heat it up and bend it. No biggie.

[Adam Merritt]

2. The wing isn't parallel with the bed meaning that it tilts up or down. That, to me would be the bigger problem and some shimming is probably in order.

First off, thanks for the advice! I used an extra pair of the Incra rail mounts on the far end of the cast iron wing to help support it so that it doesn't just hang freely. I put the slightest amount of pressure under the table with a hydraulic jack to get the far end level under my straight edge before tightening down, but have not had the chance to re-align the other side yet. I would think this should help with the tilt you mention, but will know more this weekend. I've seen the PALS system, but I thought it was specific to the saw model, but still, it might be worth a shot. I hope to work on it more tonight (last night was the wife's Birthday, so I spent the evening with her instead).

[Roger Feeley]

A device like PALS would only address the first problem of the wing being out of alignment in the z-axis. It would help you adjust up and down. To me, if the wing angled up or down, you take that up with SawStop. Mine is dead on.

I will probably make myself a PALS for adjusting the wings. I wanted to get the saw going so I could use it and what I have is good enough for now.

By all means, take care of the bride. My wife of 40 years bought me a SS ICS out of the blue. She's a keeper.

[Dan Schocke]

To get the extension wings aligned flush with the main table on my saw, I used some large C-clamps to pull the extension up or down where I needed it. It was much less frustrating than trying to tap with a dead-blow hammer.

Making everything co-planar will probably require you to shim the extensions, but you won't know where to shim until you get everything flush at the seams.

--Dan

[glenn bradley]

A device like PALS would only address the first problem of the wing being out of alignment in the z-axis. It would help you adjust up and down. To me, if the wing angled up or down, you take that up with SawStop. Mine is dead on.

I will probably make myself a PALS for adjusting the wings. I wanted to get the saw going so I could use it and what I have is good enough for now.

By all means, take care of the bride. My wife of 40 years bought me a SS ICS out of the blue. She's a keeper.

Interesting, which PALs are you talking about? The ones I had were for trunnions on a contractor saw and had nothing to do with the wings. Have they branched out?

To the OP - I have the same saw. I did need to shim one wing and I find that foil tape works well. It is pretty consistent in thickness and sticks where you put it so your hands are free for other tasks. I agree that the saw's top surfaces should be as flat and even as possible. The table is your reference surface for your material's relationship with the blade. A lot of folks only worry about the are right around the blade and that's fine if that works for them.

I use the stock fence so am no help on the Incra Positioner but, accurate relationships between fence, blade, miter slot and table still apply. I found the laminated wood table extension to be the major weak point of the machine. Softwood frame parts make retaining alignment an issue. The single pivot-point height adjustment at the wood to cast iron junction is inadequate although two of them would probably work well.

I added more attachment points in an effort to keep things still. I noticed the other day that the soft wood frame parts had allowed things to shift yet again and assume I will just pull it and replace the frame members. I had no such issues with a shop made table on a previous saw that used simple red oak frame members. Just reporting my experience in case you want to take care of this now as opposed to after you have your fence all setup.