Outdoor Bar Design

[Neil Steininger]

I am building a bar style table for my deck. I am intending to build the top out of a 10 foot long live-edge slab of cedar, thinking I will finish it to about 18 to 20 inches deep. I am a bit concerned about how to build the base though. The bar will be placed against the deck rail so we can sit and enjoy the view and I would like to design it such that we can move the stools under the bar when not in use. I have seen designs like the bench picture below where the stretcher is up against the top of the piece but am wondering if this design would scale up to 10 feet long, 20 inches deep, and 40 inches tall and remain stable.

e3b3bfbbe5826c7cc71a7a75cc56e470.jpg

My other consideration, and why I want to be able to tuck the stools away, is that we get about 70 inches of rain and about 90 inches of snow per year (I know, why bother with a deck in that weather?). I know I can leave the cedar unfinished and just let it grey, but would rather attempt to retain the color over time. I assume this means I need to oil it annually but am curious if a bartop epoxy finish would hold up to near constant moisture and frequent freeze and thaw. Probably a question for the finishing section of the forum though.

Thanks!

[Dave Richards]

How thick is your cedar?

If you put a stretcher down low, it'll be used as a footrest so keep that in mind. The low stretcher is probably a good idea. You could perhaps design the stools so they are cantilevered to clear the lower stretcher or maybe just lift the front legs over the stretcher.

As for finish, I would be inclined to look consider a marine finish. They are designed to be outside.

Would you consider some sort of roof over the thing?

[Neil Steininger]

Unfortunately putting a roof over it won't work based on the deck design and the nature of our lot. Designing the stools around the bar is probably a better idea than vice versa so that might be the way to go. Not sure on the thickness of the slab. I will either be sourcing it from a nearby sawmill or going the diy route with my dads chainsaw mill on a log near his cabin, though that involves a lot of logistical issues in transport. Ideally it will end up 2-3 inches thick.

I will have to look into marine finishes. Luckily I should have decent options on that route being in a costal town.

Thanks for the advice!

[Wayne Lomman]

By all means put the stretcher at the top. If you have any doubt about stability, use a small bracket to connect it to your hand rail somewhere out of sight. This let's you make your stools any style you like.

As far as finishing, epoxy will go chalky in sunlight (despite your high rain and snowfall). Make sure what you use is uv stable and a bit flexible. Cheers

[Tom Bender]

The top will need support if less than 2" thick and will tend to warp and twist a bit depending on the species. You will need one apron up under the top slab to stiffen it and to connect to the legs. If this is done well you should not need a stretcher.

And any finish except paint will take some maintenance and eventually fail. Maintenance of the top will be easy but the rest will be work. My suggestion is to go thick and unfinished. Maintenance will involve a little work with a hand plane and a cold brew once in a while.