Suggested Wood Moisture Meter for shop

[Steven Reilly]

Now that I have a StopSaw I think it may be wise to invest in a reasonably good moisture meter than take a chance of setting off the brake and loosing a blade as well. Plus I really just don't want to activate the brake under any condition much less a condition I can control. I've looked around and they range all over the place with cost and then the two styles, pinned and pinless. Suggestions for a hobbyist's workshop would be very welcomed. I figure that the cost of a dado brake is $89 plus blade so maybe I can justify a slightly better one if needed but really would rather spend the $$ on still needed tools.

Thanks,
Steve

[Lee Schierer]

I have a Mini Ligno pin type meter that I use from time to time. It gives me a good idea of where my lumber is before working with it. I used to buy air dried lumber and moisture levels could be all over the place. Since I found a quality supplier of kiln dried lumber, it sees far less use.

[John Lankers]

I have the mini-Ligno E/D and I'm quite happy with it.

[Ira Matheny]

For a number of years I have used a Delmhorst J-Lite. Very happy, except it was stolen. Purchased another just like it and still very happy.
Ira

[John K Jordan]

Now that I have a StopSaw I think it may be wise to invest in a reasonably good moisture meter than take a chance of setting off the brake and loosing a blade as well. Plus I really just don't want to activate the brake under any condition much less a condition I can control. I've looked around and they range all over the place with cost and then the two styles, pinned and pinless. Suggestions for a hobbyist's workshop would be very welcomed. I figure that the cost of a dado brake is $89 plus blade so maybe I can justify a slightly better one if needed but really would rather spend the $$ on still needed tools.

Thanks,
Steve

Steve, I prefer a pinless meter since it is quick and simple and doesn't rely on contact through the surface. Some disadvantages is the contact area must be flat. Advantages are it can read some distance under the surface and it doesn't poke holes in the wood. I use it to check air-drying wood from my sawmill and in the shop on lumber and turning blanks. I watched a guy use one at our club recently and on some turning blanks he couldn't get readings. I've had a Wagner for a bunch of years but I think they are over your budget.

JKJ

[Steven Reilly]

Thanks Guys,

The mini-Ligno looks like a good fit for me. I have a friends General pinless for the moment but it would be good to check the two together. I'm headed out to pick up my Stopsaw overhead dust collection unit later and hopefully the supplier will have one in stock I can compare to on some wood in-store. I do like the pinless but a pin unit could always be used on the edge of the wood where it would be less noticeable and likely cut off anyway. I was re-reading the manual on the saw and they mentioned that if there was any question you could bypass the safety for a single cut and the indicator lights on the power switch would indicate if there was a moisture issue. Of course that only tells you at the point of cut...

[John K Jordan]

The mini-Ligno looks like a good fit for me. I have a friends General pinless for the moment but it would be good to check the two together. ...

Steven,

Do you know about the oven-dry method of measuring moisture in wood? It defines moisture content in the laboratory and is easy do do at home, however, it does destroy a small sample. It would be extremely useful to check the accuracy of any moisture meter and at least tell you what kind of trade-offs you can expect.

The pin type of meter measures only at the surface. The pinless meter will measure from the surface down a bit, I think about 3/4" for my Wagner. The oven-dry method will measure the absolute moisture content of the wood. It seems to me that using this on a few typical samples of the thickness of wood you usually use would verify either type of meter. Even if the meter was a little off, it would be good to know if it was consistently a bit high or a bit low.

Simple to measure, it requires only a good scale and an oven. Cut a sample from the middle of a board. Carefully weigh it. Put it in a oven and dry it completely. Weigh again. Subtract the oven dry weight from the original weight. Divide that by the oven dry weight. Multiply the fraction by 100% to get the moisture content.

Look up "oven-dry moisture content of wood" for lots of information. For example, this: http://timber.ce.wsu.edu/Supplements...e/Default.html

For far more information: http://dnr.wi.gov/topic/ForestBusine...ureContent.pdf
This is a bit technical BUT perhaps just read the part about testing small samples quickly using a microwave oven. Pay attention to the part about accidentally setting the wood on fire! (Besides the danger and mess it ruins the test!)

Or this: http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_bas...ven_tests.html (Gene Wengert is an acknowledged expert)

JKJ

[Mike Henderson]

I've cut green olive wood on the SawStop without problems. One time I had the saw stop on me. Apparently, it can tell the difference between wet wood and a finger and all it did was shut off - the brake did not engage.

Additionally, you can push your wood into the stopped blade and see if you get a red light. If not, you can cut it.

Mike

[Steven Reilly]

I'll give that a try. I think that was what I was reading about in the manual. The shop is taking off quicker than I expected and I really need to sit down with each new piece and carefully go over each manual. It's not that the tools are something I haven't used but new tools and different brands. It's like getting a new computer with a new OS and many new programs.

Thanks Again,

Steve