First Finishing Project

[Graham Hogg]

Hi Guys,

I'm new to woodworking and need some advise on how to finish and protect my first project.

It's a Walnut slab bench that will be used in the entryway to my home. It will see regular use by the kids and will probably have wet mitts left on it eventually. I've cut the required shape, filled in knots and cracks with black tinted epoxy, and sanded to 320. I think I'm ready to start the finishing process.

I've done a lot of reading over the last few days and can't decide on a finish, so I'd like some suggestions. Here are my criteria:

1. Not a spray on application, preferably wiped or brushed on
2. Durable. Will be used by kids with wet mitts and snow pants which may drip on the bench
3. Rich colour, but not stained. i want to maintain the natural look, but have the grain "pop". I want to retain the sapwood colour
4. No annual maintenance. I know the bench will have to be refinished eventually, but i don't want to have to do it very often.

I've read that walnut is an open grain wood so do I need to use a grain filler first? I'm intrigued by the wet-sanding method (#2) suggested in this article. Would that offer enough protection or would I have to apply something on top? What about a proper wood grain filler like #1 of the same article?

Thanks for your time.

Graham

[Prashun Patel]

If you're willing to spend a little bit extra, try waterlox original sealer finish (ORIGINAL FORMULA - not VOC COMPLIANT FORMULA).

You can wipe on two coats, then sand with 400, then brush on two coats, then sand with 600, then wipe on 2 final coats.

Lots of ways to apply the Waterlox, but for durability and clarity, and pop, and color on walnut, and ease of application, it's hard to beat.

[Graham Hogg]

If you're willing to spend a little bit extra, try waterlox original sealer finish (ORIGINAL FORMULA - not VOC COMPLIANT FORMULA).

You can wipe on two coats, then sand with 400, then brush on two coats, then sand with 600, then wipe on 2 final coats.

Lots of ways to apply the Waterlox, but for durability and clarity, and pop, and color on walnut, and ease of application, it's hard to beat.

Thanks Prashun.

Do you mean this one?

[David Sloan]

I have never found it necessary to use grain filler on walnut. Walnut looks best with an oil finish I think. Another option is Watco Danish oil applied 2 or 3 times (and you can wet sand it) , wait minimum of 3 days to dry and apply polyurethane at whatever gloss level you want sanding between coats. That will be a very durable finish but there are many options. Waterlox is a great product but it is expensive.

[Andy Giddings]

Another easy to apply wipe on finish that will pop the grain is Arm R Seal

[Prashun Patel]

Do you mean this one?

Yes, TB5284.

[Bill McNiel]

I agree with Prashun that Waterlox is an ideal product for the project you have defined but disagree on the method. I would, and definitely do, liberally brush on the first two coats, these are the coats that are mostly absorbed into the wood and wiping them does not allow for this.

The "additional" cost for using Waterlox is minimal at best. One should never "cheap out" on the finish process. It is the final step and has a significant effect on the finished product. I finished the only countertop in my shop with Waterlox so my clients can see how resistive to water damage, etc. it is.

I have never filled the pores of Walnut.

All of this is JMHO but I do a fair amount of work with both Walnut and Waterlox and my opinions are based on actual experience over the years.

[Graham Hogg]

I tried to find a place to buy waterlox locally and can't. Does anyone know of a place in Ottawa, Canada where you can buy it?

Alternatively, Lee Valley sells Tried & True Varnish Oil. Is this a comparable product?

Thanks all for the input.
Graham

[David Sloan]

I tried to find a place to buy waterlox locally and can't. Does anyone know of a place in Ottawa, Canada where you can buy it?

Alternatively, Lee Valley sells Tried & True Varnish Oil. Is this a comparable product?

Thanks all for the input.
Graham

I have used Tried and True Danish oil primarily on bowls. It is quite good although I like Watco better. When visiting Canada (London area) a few years ago, i talked to a woodturner selling large bowls. He told me he used Waterlox and had to drive to the US to get it. I suspect it may be some environmental issue but don't know. Maybe someone else can comment.

[Graham Hogg]

I don't think the Danish Oil would provide enough durability in my application, whereas the Varnish Oil might. This is what the Lee Valley website says:


"The Danish Oil is pure polymerized linseed oil with no additives. An ideal choice for kitchenware and furniture, it penetrates deeply into wood surfaces and builds to a durable, water-resistant satin sheen.....The Varnish Oil is a combination of highly refined polymerized linseed oil and natural-resin varnish (modified pine sap). Its high resin content produces a durable water-resistant finish that buffs to a warm semi-gloss sheen."


Waterlox seems to be similar to the Varnish oil, but uses Tung oil instead of linseed oil. Would it make any difference in final performance or appearance? I'm leaning towards the T&T Varnish oil since it's easy to get locally. Thoughts?

Again, thanks for putting up with my newb questions!

Graham

[Edwin Santos]

If you cannot find Waterlox in Canada, have a look around and see if you can find Arm R Seal as Andy recommended. It's incredibly easy to apply (wipe on) and delivers a nice finish.

[Graham Hogg]

If you cannot find Waterlox in Canada, have a look around and see if you can find Arm R Seal as Andy recommended. It's incredibly easy to apply (wipe on) and delivers a nice finish.

Thanks everyone. I guess I'll go with Arm R Seal. Could I apply a few coats of BLO first, then a few coats of Arm R Seal on top for a richer colour?

Graham

[Andy Giddings]

IME you don't need BLO with Arm R Seal. About the only finish I've used under Arm R Seal is Shellac and that was to seal a stained surface. If you want to try it, send General Finishes a message via their Facebook page and they'll answer within a day as to whether the two are compatible.

[Don Morris]

Waterlox is a great finish for pros with a paint booth and/or super great ventilation. Otherwise the odor will almost drive you out of the house for a day or more. It did me and I used 2 fans positioned to blow the ambient air into the garage and out the door. LOML won't even let me discuss Waterlox anymore. And with Waterlox, don't forget the NIOSH rated masks for organic vapors. Arm-R-Seal after Shellac will do just fine.