My first PM purchases

[Ethan Spronk]

I dont post often but really enjoy reading/learning from everyone here. I finally made the dive into the PM world. Now time to get some advice on how to clean up/tune up on a budget.

I have been looking for a deal on a jointer for quite sometime but most CL listings are 3-4 hours away. This baby popped up only 20 minutes away on a FB exchange site. It needs some cleaning and mods to help with dust collection. Any suggestions on how to best remove the surface rust and get the fence adjustments working better?

20170328_161950.jpg20170328_161955.jpg20170328_162035.jpg Sorry cant figure out how to rotate the pictures

Now since I made the plunge I figured what better way to commit than buying a second.

20170328_161838.jpg20170328_161908.jpg

I would like to figure out the best way to build a motor cover, and seal it up to improve dust collection. I have started digging around on here but if someone has some ideas they would like to share that would be awesome.

Now for the brag part. He had them listed for $500 for the jointer and $800 for the saw. Walked out with both for $900. I thought that was an "ok" deal. Do need to put some elbow grease into getting them where I would like to have them at.

Advice is always accepted!

[Andrew Hughes]

I like the jointer try scraping off the rust with a rasor blade.The tablesaw looks to be in good condition too.

[Tim McCarthy]

That sounds like a "good" deal on a saw and jointer that look to be in great shape. The surface rust will scrape off with a razor blade as posted. I usually use a dedicated palm sander with wet/dry paper (320 or so) and WD-40 or mineral spirits after to really shine things up.

I built a motor cover for my old Uni-saw out of 16ga steel. I cut out the pieces and then a friend welded it together for me. Start with a flat piece sheared to size for a base; then a piece sheared to the depth of the cover with plenty of length to go all the way around. Mark our and cut the hole in the base piece then bend the "depth" piece to shape and cut off the left over material. Then, with another shear cut rectangle, lay it over the "depth" piece and mark the perimeter and cut it with a jig saw. Make sure things line up and have someone weld it up or do it your self if you have the capability. It's a bit of a wrestling match bending the "depth" piece to shape but not too bad and the rest is easy.

Enjoy!

Tim

[Jim Morgan]

Good deal on a couple of nice older machines!

For my vintage Unisaw, I got a clear plastic storage container from HD that was big enough and deep enough to fit around the motor, stuck some closed-cell weatherstripping around the perimeter of the opening, and ran in some self-tapping sheet metal screws to secure the container. Did the job cheaply and easily, since I have a right-tilting saw it's under the table where I don't have to look at it.

[joe maday]

On an old DJ-20,I used some evaporust and 000-0000 steel wool, once the original grind patterns can be seen, then use some 400-600 wet dry paper on a block of wood, with wd-40/mineral spirits . imitating the arcs of the original machining. Take your time.
It looks like you could skip the evaporust on the saw, just some steel wool wd-40/ mineral spirits. following the machine/grinder marks or pattern.
It looks like it will clean up almost like new. I would not resort to a palm/mechanical sander. Then a good waxing of course! Both look to be a great buy.

[Matt Day]

Grinder, wire cup wheel, scotch brite pad. That'll clean it up.

Grizzly (and others likely) sell a dust hood that should fit the jointer. Check out the parts for their 8" parallelogram jointer.

Nice scores!

[Chris Hachet]

Very impressive scores, that is fantastic equipment. Nice to see Powermatic stuff saved and used....

[Jim Riseborough]

WD40, sctochbrite pad, wet sand paper. Get a nice flat piece of steel to use as a sanding block. Worked great for my jointer and saw. 400 grit min. up to whatever you want to get the shine you want.

[Bill Dufour]

For the jointer a sheet of plywood to cover the entire chute area. then a HVAC register box and cut a hole in the plywood to match. Attach with supermagnets or wood screws to the jointer.
Bill

http://www.homedepot.com/p/10-in-x-4...X4X6/100198141

[Keith Hankins]

I dont post often but really enjoy reading/learning from everyone here. I finally made the dive into the PM world. Now time to get some advice on how to clean up/tune up on a budget.

I have been looking for a deal on a jointer for quite sometime but most CL listings are 3-4 hours away. This baby popped up only 20 minutes away on a FB exchange site. It needs some cleaning and mods to help with dust collection. Any suggestions on how to best remove the surface rust and get the fence adjustments working better?

20170328_161950.jpg20170328_161955.jpg20170328_162035.jpg Sorry cant figure out how to rotate the pictures

Now since I made the plunge I figured what better way to commit than buying a second.

20170328_161838.jpg20170328_161908.jpg

I would like to figure out the best way to build a motor cover, and seal it up to improve dust collection. I have started digging around on here but if someone has some ideas they would like to share that would be awesome.

Now for the brag part. He had them listed for $500 for the jointer and $800 for the saw. Walked out with both for $900. I thought that was an "ok" deal. Do need to put some elbow grease into getting them where I would like to have them at.

Advice is always accepted!

Seamed fair deal, and good tools enjoy. A little rust is easy to fix, and it will last a long time. cheers!

[Bill Dufour]

When I first got a jointer I had no DC so. I put a piece of plywood on the sloped bottom of the chute. There were some motor mount empty holes I wanted to cover so no dust got into the base. The plywood extended out of the base about 2 inches . Then a put a cardboard box to catch the chips. I had to use a magnet so the box stayed put.
I do not understand why makers do not have the dust chute sticking out. I guess it looks more streamlined and it easier to ship.
Bill D.

[Greg Parrish]

I picked up the motor cover for my PM66 through these guys. I added some foam inulation tape before bolting it on and it works great.

https://bellplasticsfabrication.com/...6-72-5-7-5-hp/

[Mike Wilkins]

Great score on some quality equipment. I built a dust/motor cover for a Unisaw out of 1/4" plywood with 3/4 X3/4 inch wood strips on the inside; some small hinges on the edge and foam weather stripping tape on the mating edges with a magnet to hold it tight to the saw base. Worked great until I sold the machine (wish I still had it). A slider took its place.

[Rick Potter]

Good post Greg,

I didn't know those things were available. Learned something new today. Now I can take a nap.