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Thread: 36" Northfield shingle-cutting jig

  1. #1
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    36" Northfield shingle-cutting jig

    The guys in the shop were making an order of shingles the other day and I thought I would share the setup. The Northfield is our "shingle machine" because it is the smaller (LOL) of our two bandsaws.

    Erik

    IMG_2772.jpgIMG_2773.jpgIMG_2770.jpgIMG_2771.jpgIMG_2776.jpg

  2. #2
    Impressive setup! Just curious, why the bowed plywood "spring" rather than a sled fixed between two solid boards?

    And since you basically offered, you might as well show us the big saw too!

  3. #3
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    Very cool Erik. That Shou Sugi Ban is just down right sexy and it had to be for me to even notice it in a bandsaw thread!
    Of all the laws Brandolini's may be the most universally true.

    Deep thought for the day:

    Your bandsaw weighs more when you leave the spring compressed instead of relieving the tension.

  4. #4
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    Are the shingles decorative not for exposure to the sun? they look cool.
    Aj

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew Hughes View Post
    Are the shingles decorative not for exposure to the sun? they look cool.
    Some is for exterior and some interior, Shou Sugi Ban is amazing stuff. Check out the link where Erik works: http://deltamillworks.com/shou-sugi-ban
    Of all the laws Brandolini's may be the most universally true.

    Deep thought for the day:

    Your bandsaw weighs more when you leave the spring compressed instead of relieving the tension.

  6. #6
    What is the process for charring it?

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Will Boulware View Post
    Impressive setup! Just curious, why the bowed plywood "spring" rather than a sled fixed between two solid boards?
    A sled would have been my thought as well but maybe the guys in the shop know something I don't? They seem to have shingle-making down to a science on the Northfield.

    Quote Originally Posted by Will Boulware View Post
    ...And since you basically offered, you might as well show us the big saw too!
    The McDonough... Only bandsaw I've ever been frightened of. If you got a shirt-tail or sleeve stuck in that thing, it would eat you alive.

    IMG_2679.jpgIMG_2678.jpg

    Quote Originally Posted by Van Huskey View Post
    Very cool Erik. That Shou Sugi Ban is just down right sexy and it had to be for me to even notice it in a bandsaw thread!
    Thanks! I should never have started working at Delta. My wife wants to re-do the interior and exterior of our house now.

    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew Hughes View Post
    Are the shingles decorative not for exposure to the sun? they look cool.
    100% functional. That particular wood has a 50-year structural warranty, in fact. Some of the woods we use for exterior cladding will out-last most of the buildings they're attached to.

    Quote Originally Posted by Edwin Santos View Post
    What is the process for charring it?
    We have an automated conveyor assembly and flame machine specifically for charring wood (our primary business channel). Imagine a giant flame broiler in a resturant, but about 100X the fire and wood boards instead of hamburgers.

    Erik

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Edwin Santos View Post
    What is the process for charring it?
    Here is a commercial shop (certainly not as good as Delta ) they also do a piece of wood with a torch so you can see it. Shou Sugi Ban is building momentum in the DIY community (as well as the "real" world) and there are lots of youtube videos if you are interested in trying it.

    Of all the laws Brandolini's may be the most universally true.

    Deep thought for the day:

    Your bandsaw weighs more when you leave the spring compressed instead of relieving the tension.

  9. #9
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    Nice product Eric. The have one of those Mcdonough resaws at Johnson Lumber. I agree, terrifying. It resawed some 14" Makore for me in the blink of an eye.

    There is a Russian kiln drying process that uses vacuum and extremely high heat that I was reading about a while ago that gives wood some of the same long lasting properties, stable and long life outside. Tried to find it on the net but could not, can't remember what it is called. It is commercially available here, Has a very dark and grainy look. Should have bookmarked it.

    Sounds like things are going well for you, I am glad, but still miss your input around here.

    Later buddy, Larry

  10. #10
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    The website says "The heavily-charred surface of the board makes the wood fire retardant as well as resistant to rot, insects and decay."

    I get the insect resistance, and maybe the rot resistance. But fire retardant? The charred wood has to be mostly charcoal, and will still have a fairly highly percentage of tar products from lignin breakdown in it. Charcoal has a lower auto-ignition temperature by quite a bit than does solid wood.
    Last edited by Steve Demuth; 03-30-2017 at 8:42 AM.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Van Huskey View Post
    Here is a commercial shop (certainly not as good as Delta ) they also do a piece of wood with a torch so you can see it. Shou Sugi Ban is building momentum in the DIY community (as well as the "real" world) and there are lots of youtube videos if you are interested in trying it.
    Did I miss this as a joke? This video is of Delta...

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Adam Merritt View Post
    Did I miss this as a joke? This video is of Delta...

    I'm laughing at myself because I had my bookmarks mislabeled and had that one listed under the builder instead of the siding manufacturer. So the joke as it were is on me, the manufacturer is indeed Delta, where Erik now works...
    Of all the laws Brandolini's may be the most universally true.

    Deep thought for the day:

    Your bandsaw weighs more when you leave the spring compressed instead of relieving the tension.

  13. #13
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    Phew. I am feeling extra tired this morning and read your comment several times trying to figure out if I'm just extra slow today.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Demuth View Post
    The website says "The heavily-charred surface of the board makes the wood fire retardant as well as resistant to rot, insects and decay."

    I get the insect resistance, and maybe the rot resistance. But fire retardant? The charred wood has to be mostly charcoal, and will still have a fairly highly percentage of tar products from lignin breakdown in it. Charcoal has a lower auto-ignition temperature by quite a bit than does solid wood.
    While I have never investigated the mechanism at work increased fires resistance is actually the raison d'etre for the process. The Japanese started doing it to prevent house fires and fires spreading from house to house several hundred years ago. I have played with this a little in a DIY fashion and can say it is much harder to start on fire than other boards of the same batch that have not been "fire treated".
    Of all the laws Brandolini's may be the most universally true.

    Deep thought for the day:

    Your bandsaw weighs more when you leave the spring compressed instead of relieving the tension.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Adam Merritt View Post
    Did I miss this as a joke? This video is of Delta...
    Ha! that is indeed us. Matt Reisinger is a big hitter architect here in Texas in the "contemporary design" world. I had not see that video before. The other gentleman is Delta's owner, Robbie Davis. Robbie is basically the guy who devised shou-sugi-ban on a scale suitable for use on actual architectural projects (as opposed to DIY-level projects, which are much more common).

    Quote Originally Posted by Larry Edgerton View Post
    Nice product Eric. The have one of those Mcdonough resaws at Johnson Lumber. I agree, terrifying. It resawed some 14" Makore for me in the blink of an eye.

    There is a Russian kiln drying process that uses vacuum and extremely high heat that I was reading about a while ago that gives wood some of the same long lasting properties, stable and long life outside. Tried to find it on the net but could not, can't remember what it is called. It is commercially available here, Has a very dark and grainy look. Should have bookmarked it.

    Sounds like things are going well for you, I am glad, but still miss your input around here.

    Later buddy, Larry
    Thanks, Larry. I miss the machinery biz at times and it's always nice to come back here and visit.

    Regarding your Russian wood, if I were to guess, it is/was probably what is referred to as a "thermally modified" wood. There are number of those in the market here in the US. What they do is super-heat the wood in a kiln in the absence of O2. You need fuel, an ignition source, and oxygen to get fire. If you take away the O2, the wood won't combust, no matter how hot it gets. Anyhow, they superheat the wood to drive the moisture out and somehow temper it a bit. We've done some stuff with thermo-ash and thermo-poplar in the past but my understanding is that the thermo process really makes the wood brittle, so it has limited usefulness as exterior cladding (one of our primary business channels). The modified woods we use for most exterior products have been chemically modified rather than by heat, so there is none of that brittleness.

    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Demuth View Post
    The website says "The heavily-charred surface of the board makes the wood fire retardant as well as resistant to rot, insects and decay." I get the insect resistance, and maybe the rot resistance. But fire retardant? The charred wood has to be mostly charcoal, and will still have a fairly highly percentage of tar products from lignin breakdown in it. Charcoal has a lower auto-ignition temperature by quite a bit than does solid wood.
    I actually don't claim "fire resistance" as a benefit to our shou-sugi-ban, even though the traditional Japanese used it for that reason. With dwellings, it's almost always the airborne embers that land on your wood roof that start the fire rather than the structure actually getting engulfed in flames. That's why the Japanese did it. I don't have any true flame spread data for our charred products (we actually get asked this all the time by architects; it's virtually impossible to quantify) but can tell you that a piece of charred wood does not light up as readily as a piece of raw wood does. But again, I don't consider that a selling point. It's just a bit of historical trivia. Put enough heat to any piece of wood and it's going up.

    Erik

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