Turning with a recess

[kevin nee]

I often turn a recess to mount the chuck. I use the woodworm screw supplied with the chuck. Then turn a recess. I have been thinking about using a a forstner bit with the center point ground off. Has any one tried this. Any reason it would not work?
Thanks in advance, Kevin

[Prashun Patel]

Personally I wouldn't grind the point off. I have done that when absolutely necessary, but even in a press/lathe situation, the lack of a point makes the bit slightly less precise when it engages. It won't/can't wander, but it just doesn't enter as cleanly. Now, I haven't done this with a FORSTNER bit, but with a brad point bit that's my experience.

Instead, I would keep the tip, use your bit to drill the recess if you must, then clean up the point with a scraper or bowl gouge. In fact, the recess may require minor finish turning anyway. Does your chuck's outer jaw profile match the profile of the forstner bit?

[Leo Van Der Loo]

I often turn a recess to mount the chuck. I use the woodworm screw supplied with the chuck. Then turn a recess. I have been thinking about using a a forstner bit with the center point ground off. Has any one tried this. Any reason it would not work?
Thanks in advance, Kevin

Kevin keep the point on the bid, just start with the drill and make it a very shallow cut, and then finish the recess with a scraper, I don’t even use a drill bit but make the recess with my turning tool and clean and finish the recess with a scraper.

If you have a spare forstner you could try if it works, the outside edge of a good sharp forstner might be enough to keep it aligned, but if the wood is not flat and even the bit will likely get pulled off center.

[Joe Bradshaw]

Kevin, I tried grinding the point off a forstner bit to make a recess for my Talon chuck. The bit wandered all over the place. As Leo said, just make the recess with a scraper or turning tool.
Joe

[Brice Rogers]

I had a similar idea. But then I tried a forstner bit on a chunk of wood that already had a 1/2" hole where the tip would go. Yes, it did wander/wobble wherever it wanted.

If you are bound and determined to do this for production efficiency purposes, consider using two forstners. Use the standard one to drill the hole half-way in and then switch to the one without the center point. You'd probably want to get the "de-tipped" forstner centered into the half-depth hole before you spun it up. But the time you'll save will be offset by the time it takes to chuck up the second forstner.

[kevin nee]

I guess if I had to ask I probably knew the answer. At least I didn't ruin a forstner bit.
Thanks for the replies,

[Jay Mullins]

I us a 2 1/8 forestner bit to make my recess and turn with a chuck. I haven't ground the point off and see no reason to, unless I was turning something very thin.
Jay

[Reed Gray]

I do use a forstner bit to drill a recess in the top of the blank for turning the bottom, and expand into that. Haven't used a face plate or screw chuck in forever. I don't use one for the finish turned recess on the bottom. One reason is the center point (which guides the bit and keeps it from wandering) means I have to cut the recess deeper. Another reason is that a forstner bit does not leave any where near as good of a final surface as I can get with hand tools. Also, you want the recess to be pretty exact in the fit: same diameter plus a hair, and sides have to match the jaws especially if you have dove tail jaws which do give a better grip.

robo hippy

[Bill ThompsonNM]

Now although modern forstner bits all have a center point, the original invented by Benjamin Forstnerbdid not have a point. It was famous because it was guided by the outside circular rim. It was an instant hit with gun smiths and one of the manufacturers was Colt manufacturing. Alas the most recent ones were discontinued when Conval (the Connecticut Valley Manufacturing ) went out of business. I think in the 1980's. I do have a set of their 'real' Forstner bits acquired at the original Woodcraft store in Massachusetts.

[John K Jordan]

I know people who use forstner bits to drill a recess. If you really wanted to use one without a point to avoid making the deeper center mark in the wood I suppose you could get the recess started with an unmodified bit then switch to a second bit with the tip removed. The initial recess should keep it from wandering. I wonder if the bit with the point removed would need special sharpening so it will cut at the center, similar to a twist drill or end mill/router bit.

But that seems like too much trouble! It's pretty quick to measure with dividers and cut the recess with a parting tool. If you use dovetail chuck jaws it might be best to cut an angle on the outside of the recess anyway. I ground an angle on a parting tool I use for both recesses and tenons.

JKJ

[Bert Delisle]

When putting a recess on a piece held with woodworm strew I use the tailstock for support and then use a scraper shaped to cut the recess. Look up Mike Peace on YouTube and / or check the AAW mag article he wrote about making this tool. It works great even with tail center in place. I ground mine to allow cutting dovetail recess and or dove tail spigot.

[Thomas Canfield]

I use a 3/8" wide Bedan tool to form a recess and other functions. It is thicker than a scraper and has a taper body to get a clean cut for straight recess. I have to use a small skew to get the taper recess when that is needed.

[Leo Van Der Loo]

Either one of the two center scrapers will give me the clean corner in a square recess, which one, does depend on the rotation direction I have my lathe turning.

scrapers.jpg