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Thread: Powermatic Model 80 20" Bandsaw - Yes or No?

  1. #1
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    Powermatic Model 80 20" Bandsaw - Yes or No?

    All,

    I have been in the market for a bigger bandsaw. Starting to build some rocking chairs a la Hal Taylor, and my PM 141 does not have enough clearance to make a few of the cuts needed. A Powermatic 80 20" had come up in my area, for a little under $1k. Owner states it runs smooth, cuts well. Both upper, and lower guides are ball bearing. Table tilts 10 degrees left, 45 degrees right. Currently set up to run on 115 Volts. Comes with two new blades and is ready to plug in and go to work. Pics look like I would expect for old iron. Worn, but in good condition. I also want the 12.5" of resaw clearance. I suspect this has had power converted. I would have expected to find this with 220V, 3-phase power.

    I saw a Delta 28-350 recently that was trying to be sold for $900, but never got the seller to respond, so I dont have a good frame of reference for comparison. Interested in your opinions on the PM 80, on it being 115V power, pricing, and any other opinions you may have.

    Thanks,

    Brent
    Sawdust is some of the best learning material!

  2. #2
    110 motor is probably not the original. 2hp 220 was probably available.
    5HP is what the beast deserves.

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Hollingsworth View Post
    110 motor is probably not the original. 2hp 220 was probably available.
    5HP is what the beast deserves.
    Agreed, but both the Delta and Powermatic are very good saws. At roughly a grand or so, what they usually sell for, you are paying Rikon or Laguna 14 inch money for a 20 inch industrial saw.

    It will be obviously very heavy, take up a lot of floor space, and probably need bearings/tires/cosmetics/electrical work/guides, et al. But dollar for dollar probably the best bandsaw on the amrket IMHO...along with the PM 81, PM 87 (Metal version of same saw, just like PM 141/143). The older Delta 20 inch saws are amazingly nice also. People don't seem to like the 1970's Era Rockwell Delta saws as much so they seem to be available cheaper, but still work amazingly well.

    Price is important, but the only thing that seems to kill these saws is very serious rust or being dropped from a fork lift and bent badly.

  4. #4
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    Solid late 50s saw, like the PM 140 you don't see many of them around, they made the 80 and 140 for a fairly short time compared to how long they made the 81 and 141. If it runs well that is a good price, I would take a close look at the tires, they can set you back over $200 easy. It was likely a 1.5-2hp 220v motor as both the Powermatic and Delta welded steel saws were marketed to schools and light commercial shops so they were never designed for production, keep in mind much larger cast saws that weren't built as resaws at the time usually had about 3hp. I wouldn't bother putting anything more than 3hp on it with only a foot of resaw height. If the side guides are indeed bearings that may be a retrofit as well, while I have only seen 3-4 of these in the wild I think they were all block side guides. The 81s aren't really a better saw in any meaningful way and they usually command a price premium so a PM80 can be a good buy and if complete and functional I think under $1k qualifies it as a good buy.
    Of all the laws Brandolini's may be the most universally true.

    Deep thought for the day:

    Your bandsaw weighs more when you leave the spring compressed instead of relieving the tension.

  5. #5
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    A 20" band saw under a grand is a good deal especially for a Powermatic.
    Don

  6. #6
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    I'm with Don I'd take it fast

  7. #7
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    How are parts for this saw? I have heard that parts can be hard to come by. The saw runs well, and I might be able to get it for less than $900, but I am concerned about parts when things go bad. Tires and blades dont bother me,nor bearings, but any other parts concern me.
    Sawdust is some of the best learning material!

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brent Ring View Post
    How are parts for this saw? I have heard that parts can be hard to come by. The saw runs well, and I might be able to get it for less than $900, but I am concerned about parts when things go bad. Tires and blades dont bother me,nor bearings, but any other parts concern me.
    Like I said the saw is pretty rare, so it won't be as simple as a few clicks of the mouse and a credit card number for parts but there are a few sources for old Powermatic parts. It is the same story for a lot of old iron but you have to consider what is it that will break.

    Bandsaws are pretty simple machines and on a well built old saw you are unlikely to break anything in normal use that will be an issue. All the electricals can be replaced with new off the shelf parts, so can the motor, pulleys, belts, bearings and tires. The things to consider are the tensioning/tracking parts and the table/trunnion area and the wheels/shafts. If those are all in good shape and functioning well it is likely you will never have need for any of those parts and likely could find them with a little searching.

    I suggest if it is running well buy the saw.

    You are tempting OWWM rule #5: In the time between finding a machine and asking others if you should buy it someone else will come to the proper conclusion.
    Of all the laws Brandolini's may be the most universally true.

    Deep thought for the day:

    Your bandsaw weighs more when you leave the spring compressed instead of relieving the tension.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Hollingsworth View Post
    110 motor is probably not the original. 2hp 220 was probably available.
    5HP is what the beast deserves.
    20" is a very nice size saw for most kinds of furniture making, but I wouldn't call it a beast; that would be a 36" or larger machine.

    A sharp blade doesn't need tons of h.p.; my 18" Oliver had a 3 ph., 1/2 h.p. polyphase induction motor (whatever that is) and it never bogged down on me.

    [My dream band saw would either be a Yates snowflake, or a Tannewitz 24", although I don't think they made too many of those.]

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Van Huskey View Post
    You are tempting OWWM rule #5: In the time between finding a machine and asking others if you should buy it someone else will come to the proper conclusion.
    I just saw some guy from Provo headed out to get it.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Cav View Post
    I just saw some guy from Provo headed out to get it.
    Honestly, that is exactly the kind of saw/price I would buy splash a little paint on it and maybe some tires tune it up and flip it... or keep it if I could find a corner to fit it into.
    Of all the laws Brandolini's may be the most universally true.

    Deep thought for the day:

    Your bandsaw weighs more when you leave the spring compressed instead of relieving the tension.

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Frank Drew View Post
    20" is a very nice size saw for most kinds of furniture making, but I wouldn't call it a beast; that would be a 36" or larger machine.

    A sharp blade doesn't need tons of h.p.; my 18" Oliver had a 3 ph., 1/2 h.p. polyphase induction motor (whatever that is) and it never bogged down on me.

    [My dream band saw would either be a Yates snowflake, or a Tannewitz 24", although I don't think they made too many of those.]
    Yesterday I saw a Yates 16 inch Snowflake, which is extremely rare. I also looked at a 30 inch Tannewitz in pieces....Oliver 192 is one of my quest machines...

  13. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by Keith Hankins View Post
    I'm with Don I'd take it fast
    Depends strongly on condition...when I was looking at Powermatic 20 inch saws, one of the saws I had a chance to buy had spent its life around battery acid and was in terrible shape....condition really matters when buying used.

  14. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by Brent Ring View Post
    How are parts for this saw? I have heard that parts can be hard to come by. The saw runs well, and I might be able to get it for less than $900, but I am concerned about parts when things go bad. Tires and blades dont bother me,nor bearings, but any other parts concern me.
    You might keep your eyes out for a cheap parts machine. That being said, very little will break on these.

  15. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by Van Huskey View Post
    Honestly, that is exactly the kind of saw/price I would buy splash a little paint on it and maybe some tires tune it up and flip it... or keep it if I could find a corner to fit it into.
    Agreed...although I have absolutely zero plans on selling the Powermatic 87 I just placed into my wood shop.

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