Laminated workbench tops, cutting boards, whatever vs. solid wood.

[Matt Roth]

Here's another vote for double thick 3/4 mdf. I've found it plenty thick to hold screws, even after recessing the router plate. I've never messed with adding laminate. It's been flat for over 5 years now.

[Paul K. Johnson]

OK, so the general consensus is that nobody wants me to use MDF and everyone wants me to laminate some cocobolo to make the top.

I'm still wondering about my original question though - forget the part about what it's used for. Is there a purpose for laminating or is it better to use a large slab if you have it?

Again, my understanding is that laminated surfaces will be much more warp/cup-resistant. Is that true?

Also, the extra router table top I have is laminated with something golf-ball like. I have no other purpose for it and it's already double-thick MDF with a laminate on it so it would be a whole lot faster for me to just cut a chunk off of it, cut it to size and use it.

[Prashun Patel]

"Is there a purpose for laminating or is it better to use a large slab if you have it?
Again, my understanding is that laminated surfaces will be much more warp/cup-resistant. Is that true?"

Refer to my Post #4 below.

To follow up, if you are going to laminate FLATSAWN pieces, then the theory is that if you alternate the growth ring orientation (one up, one down, etc) then half the boards will cup one way, half will cup the other, providing a wavy - but level - surface. I don't subscribe to that method of construction when flat really counts. For a desk or occasional table, perhaps, but not for a bench or glossy show piece.

[Paul K. Johnson]

That makes sense but I think that's what caused the problem with the laminated surface I did make. Some had grain one way and others had grain the other way so no matter what I got tear-out when planing it flat.

I'm a novice with hand-planes so I'm sure that someone better would know what to do to avoid the tear-out. I closed the mouth as much as possible and set the chip breaker about 1/64 from the cutting edge. I also set it to take thin shavings. One reason I did that is because I was learning and didn't want to decrease the thickness too much because I was pretty sure I would remove more wood than necessary to flatten it just because I don't know what I'm doing.

That was for a mobile sharpening station and the top is made from 2 x 6's. It ended up being 2-1/4" thick I believe. Still haven't finished it because I ran out of the product I sell which is why I never finish any personal projects.

[Paul K. Johnson]

PS. Prashun I did see your post but forgot about it. Thanks!

[Robert Stanton]

I suppose you haven't considered a cast iron bolt on? It does cost extra but there will never be any warping issues.

[Paul K. Johnson]

Hi Robert,

Yes, that would be my preference but none of them fit my DeWalt and even if they did the table saw top could never begin to support that kind of weight. The top is cast aluminum less than 1/8" thick.

So last night I finally installed my Incra Fence. It's next to impossible to align the blade on this saw. It's way out of whack with the miter slots but still works ok. I got it aligned with the fence.

Now I can't move in my shop. The saw became huge.

I took that extra router table top I have and cut it down to make the extension. I will be mounting it tonight. The fence rails will have to fully support it. I think they're up to the task. If not then I can add some braces to the table saw base I made that will further support the router table top.

I have to get that up and running as quickly as possible so I can tear down my router table, move the drill press where that table was and then the saw will fit as long as I only make cross-cuts or short rips.

If I need to make longer cuts then I have to roll out the saw and turn it 90 degrees. I think it will all work out. But the problem with this is I need all those tools working so before I put the fence on I had to ensure I could get all the other jobs done as well or I'd be where I am now - no room to move in the shop and getting all cut up trying to move around the saw and getting hacked by the edges of the extruded fence rails.

On my way to the shop now.

Bonus: Received two new Forrest blades today - a 30 tpi thin rip and a 70 TPI veneer blade.