Vintage Craftsman tablesaw severe vibration

[Lee Schierer]

The "stretch" in the belt is probably an illusion on my part- I changed from a 1.5 hp (grizzly) to a Baldor 1hp which is smaller, so it didn't pull the motor against the belt until I removed the link. The belt was a "Power Link".

Your 1 Hp motor may not be heavy enough to properly tension the belt. A 1-1/2Hp motor is going to weigh quite a bit more than a 1 Hp. Why would you want to go to less Hp?

[Chris Hachet]

Your 1 Hp motor may not be heavy enough to properly tension the belt. A 1-1/2Hp motor is going to weigh quite a bit more than a 1 Hp. Why would you want to go to less Hp?

Possibly what he had on hand. He could try placing some additional weight on the motor and seeing if that helped.

What concerns me is the OP saying that he weighed down the saw in hopes of quieting the vibration. I ahve always found problems masked usually come back to light in an uglier form later.

Can't remember if he has already done so but replacing the shieves/pulleys with heavier units from a motor supply house will often work wonders with a lighter weight machine.

[ken kimble]

My question is, can the motor move on it's pivot freely when you raise and lower the blade? I have refurbished a lot of the older Craftsmans and when I bought them a good share had the little 1/4" bolt, that is only there to keep the motor from falling over backwards when the belt is off and to dampen motor bounce, screwed down tight so the motor could not pivot with blade height changes. You can't believe the strain on things and noise when the blade is raised and the bolt was tightened with the blade down!

Dick
I did tighten that bolt very briefly to see if vibration was any less. I didn't raise or lower the blade and after switching the motor on and off, I loosened the bolt. Incidentally Sears put a tag on the motor mount warning about tightening that bolt. Mine finally fell off with the latest motor change.

[ken kimble]

Your 1 Hp motor may not be heavy enough to properly tension the belt. A 1-1/2Hp motor is going to weigh quite a bit more than a 1 Hp. Why would you want to go to less Hp?

Lee
The trouble started when the Grizzly was on the saw. I know it was a lot heavier than the sears which burned out a year ago. So I first guessed the motor was the cause and I thought possibly over weight for the saw. Even went so far as to make a warranty claim (the motor also started making a buzzing sound; capacitor check ok.) Didn't have another motor, but found a Baldor 1HP on sale. (I've not cut much hardwood, so 1 HP has been enough. I don't remember the rationale for the ! 1/2 but it had to do with what was available to me at the time.)

[ken kimble]

When I had my Craftsman saw and changed the motor, I had to reverse motor mounting plate so it was in a more horizontal position. Other wise, the motor was "climbing the belts."

Bruce
Tell me more. That mount seems a little saggy. How did you reverse it. I wonder if we have the same mount?

[Bill Space]

Hi

If I remember right the problem started with the old motor, and the saw ran well after you changed the arbor bearings.

I think you said the arbor turns freely and smoothly now, as it did when there was no problem.

I don't think you changed the belt, although you did say you took out one link. You have good cast iron pulleys, not the pot metal cheap ones. Seems like you have addressed almost everything except the belt.

I would change the belt. Just to eliminate it as a possibility. I would probably push down and lift up on the motor while the saw was vibrating, to see if this made any difference in the vibration.

I would bet on the belt at this point, but the trouble is every time I bet on something I lose...

Bill

[ken kimble]

Hi

If I remember right the problem started with the old motor, and the saw ran well after you changed the arbor bearings.

I think you said the arbor turns freely and smoothly now, as it did when there was no problem.

I don't think you changed the belt, although you did say you took out one link. You have good cast iron pulleys, not the pot metal cheap ones. Seems like you have addressed almost everything except the belt.

I would change the belt. Just to eliminate it as a possibility. I would probably push down and lift up on the motor while the saw was vibrating, to see if this made any difference in the vibration.

I would bet on the belt at this point, but the trouble is every time I bet on something I lose...

Bill

Joy! I have tried several things, but this AM I pulled the link belt off my jointer and tried it; VIBRATION CEASED!!!
The jointer belt is slightly shorter than the saq belt. I'll try some additional experiments to try to understand it better, but I can see my old saw coming back to life.
Every one of you has contributed a piece of what I've understood and tried; Thanks a lot.
Ken

[Chris Hachet]

Joy! I have tried several things, but this AM I pulled the link belt off my jointer and tried it; VIBRATION CEASED!!!
The jointer belt is slightly shorter than the saq belt. I'll try some additional experiments to try to understand it better, but I can see my old saw coming back to life.
Every one of you has contributed a piece of what I've understood and tried; Thanks a lot.
Ken

Very, very Happy to see you back to making sawdust!

[Tom Trees]

Does it run with vibration without a blade on, or the (washers/ flanges) ?
I chased my tail for a day and a half, trying to figure what the problem was with my wobbling blade ...
No adjustment needed, apart from a quick lap to get the burrs off them .
These things are only ment to be in contact with the blade on the outer edge, like a chip breaker in a plane.
Just thought I'd mention
Tom