Another track saw question

[Frederick Skelly]

Im building a butcher block workstation. The top is 3 1/2" thick, 20" wide and 30" long. To square the ends, I had to use a hand plane. I got it done, but using a hand plane on 20" of end grain was no fun at all. (I have a contractor saw and an Incra sled, but just didnt feel comfortable using them for this one.)

If I had a track saw, how easy (or hard) would it be to square up the ends of this thing? I understand I have to cut one side, flip it and cut the other. I guess my question is: how hard will it be to get a nice flush cut when I make 2 passes like this? Can I get the track aligned accurately enough? Or will I have a ridge in the middle that has to be planed-out?

(Honestly, Ive been trying to convince myself to buy a track saw for a month. It will be helpful with sheet goods that I use occasionally. But if I can use it to easily and accurately square up a thick tabletop like this, I'll order one tomorrow. )

Thanks guys!
Fred

[David T gray]

seems like you could cut this on a table saw a lot quicker and more accurately .

[Jim Dwight]

You might be able to cut it with one pass with the bigger of the two Festool track saws. But my DeWalt only cuts a little over 2 inches in one pass. Enough for many table tops but not yours. I think you can get very good but not perfect alignment for cutting from both sides. When you make the first cut with a new track it cuts off a soft plastic edge on the track. That marks exactly where the saw will cut. So you could make the first cut, extend the cut line carefully to the other side and put the track on the cut and finish. There are also parallel jigs you could use and I have what I call a track positioning jig. But I doubt any way you do it you can avoid taking a little off, maybe 1/128 with a plane to finish. I use my track saw on doors (very handy) and on solid hardwood. Much easier than my table saw whenever the work piece is large. Cut quality is as good and dust collection is better.

[Mike Henderson]

The problem would be getting the line drawn on both sides so that they are exactly in line with each other. If you can do that, a track saw can cut it. I agree with the earlier poster who said you'd probably miss by a small amount. But that small amount could probably be addressed with a plane or even by sanding it down.

I have a track saw and don't use it a lot but when I need it, it's really nice to have.

Mike

[Mike Hollingsworth]

A breeze with a 12" sliding table saw. Can't think of another good way.

[Paul K. Johnson]

I've done this exact thing. I was very careful with my layout so that the two cuts would line up as closely as possible. There was a lot of planing to do after the saw cuts. If you're already close to square then it will probably be easier just to plane it.

[Warren Wilson]

When I have had to match cuts on both sides of a board, I've used a quick jig to index the track (rather than depend on drawing a line to match the line on the other side of the board -- which I do anyway because of my OCD). Izzy Swan uses a simlar procedure here. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=_3F1SCsfNv4

[Davis Young]

The problem is registering the track on both sides to match up. Anything short of a 12" blade and you have to make two passes. I would suggest using a router and flush trim bit.

On the first side, you would make the cut to the desired line using a track saw, a circular saw with a straight edge, or a router with a long straight bit on a straight edge. If using a track saw, you would get about 2" depth of cut, which would be fine for your 3-1/2" thickness.

Then flip the piece over and line up the track a short distance (~1/8") away from the desired line and cut it long. This way you don't have to match the set-ups, and an extra long flush trim bit takes care of the rest. The bearing will ride along the first cut end. The reason to leave only a little bit is that you will have to make the remaining ~1-1/2" height cut in one pass.

Also remember to tape or clamp a backer block to the edges so you don't get chip out on the exit whether using saw or router.

[Malcolm Schweizer]

Davis has the better idea. I am about to face the same problem with a 5" thick bench top. I will cut from both sides with a track saw because the router bit isn't deep enough. I will make a jig that has two straight edges that are parallel. The jig slips over the piece and ensures a mark that meets on each end. A track saw is accurate enough to make that cut. For your situation, go with the router, but get a track saw for that top cut- you will love it. My table saw is so jealous.

[andy bessette]

You'll definitely want the track saw. But not to do a great job on this.

Get close with the table saw, and then belt sand the rest.

[Frederick Skelly]

Thanks guys. It doesn't sound like the track saw is the answer to my problem, as I'd hoped.

Warren, thanks for the link to the fence post cutting guide. That's pretty clever. Malcolm, I'd be interested in seeing build pictures of how you do this with a router (if you feel like taking them).

I appreciate everyone's help!
Fred

(I still want a track saw! )

[Mike Cutler]

Thanks guys. It doesn't sound like the track saw is the answer to my problem, as I'd hoped.

Fred

(I still want a track saw! )

It all depends on the track saw. If you don't limit yourself to an "out of the box" solution, there are ways to get outside the box.
Makita makes circular saws from 4 1/4" to 16" in diameter. Depth of cut on a 10", 5104, is 3 3/4" ( Might have to go with a 14" blade depending on the base design.). Put them on a guide rail with a homemade base and you can do it.
It won't be cheap though.
I personally think you're better off with a table saw and a jig to square. I'm just trying to help you justify a track-saw setup.

[Robert Engel]

Rent a 16" circular saw.

[Jim Becker]

Thanks guys. It doesn't sound like the track saw is the answer to my problem, as I'd hoped. )

So...come up with a different "problem" to solve...

[Keith Hankins]

This would be easy. Build a sleeve that fits snugly around the top use plywood or mdf. Slide it over the end till the track saw or any saw will ride against it (all the way around). Clamp it in place with a hand clamp so it wont move. Key is to make it snug all the way around so it stays square.

Run the saw against the edge and cut rotate the top and cut again chinko change o done.

Use this method for cutting tenons on bedrails with a router diff tool but same principle. Lerned it from Charles Neil's dvd making a period bed.