Stanley 31 pics / tote question

[Michael J Evans]

Well I needed a jointer for my ongoing bench build and with money being tight and me not wanting to spend 2 weeks and $50 in sandpaper flattening a metal jointer, I went on the hunt for a wooden jointer. To my surprise wooden jointers are not cheap, for a halfway decent looking plane i was seeing $40 plus at least another $30 in shipping . Quickly adding up to the price of a #7. Besides Ebay I tried local antique shops and they were no better wanting at least $50 for basically crap IMO. After about a month of looking I felt all hope was lost, that I was going to have to break down and sell my kids to get a a decent plane. Finally the idea hit me, GET A TRANSITIONAL!!! I immediatly went on the hunt and found the 31 below and for $21 shipped I just couldn't resist. It took me maybe 30 minutes to flatten the bottom and another few hours to de-rust and get the iron flattened and sharp, quickly allowing me to get back to the main feature: Bench build. So all in all I'm pretty dang happy. I didn't have to spend a bunch of money and quickly got back to working on the bench. I only have one caveat, the dam tote doesn't sit flat (pictured below) and if i try to use the plane anymore, I'll probably snap it off. I planed the bottom flat thinking that was the fix and only made it worse.

School me, what do I need to do to get the tote to sit flat and quit wobbling? My only other thought was to plane before the bolt a lot lower than the back offsetting the tilt when the bolt is tightened?

Anyways your thoughts are greatly appreciated, I also threw in some pics below for making you read through my poor writing.

Regards,
Michael

stanley 31 stamp.jpgtote.jpg31 side view.jpg31 bottom.jpg31 complete front.jpg31with shaving.jpg

[Derek Cohen]

I only have one caveat, the dam tote doesn't sit flat (pictured below) and if i try to use the plane anymore, I'll probably snap it off. I planed the bottom flat thinking that was the fix and only made it worse. .....

School me, what do I need to do to get the tote to sit flat and quit wobbling? My only other thought was to plane before the bolt a lot lower than the back offsetting the tilt when the bolt is tightened?

Ensure the base of the handle is flat and square. Ensure the mating surface is also flat.

Reduce (grind) the length of the bolt so it can be tightened down.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[steven c newman]

Plus one other tip: Get a piece of the foam drawer liner used in a tool box, set the tote onto the pad, trace around the base of the tote with a sharp knife. While you can glue it in place to the bottom of the tote, just the pressure of the bolt holding down the tote will do. Tote's front "paw" seems a wee bit too thin, as it is....maybe add a thin layer of matching wood to the underside, and shape to match.

Also: the metal shaft of the bolt can be installed first, sans the brass end. Make sure the shaft is tightened down as tight as you can. Test fit the tote, and then bend the shaft until the fit is perfect to the ironworks. THEN add the brass end AFTER the tote is in place. Does tighten down enough? Remove everything, grind off the first two threads on the brass' end of the shaft. "Cone" the end so the brass will start onto the now shortened shaft. Re-install the shaft, and tighten down tight, Slide the tote onto the shaft, re-install the brass end.

BTDT...
IMAG0158.jpgrefurbbed planes.jpg
Stanley #28 and #29......$5 for the pair at a walk-to auction...

[Michael J Evans]

Ensure the base of the handle is flat and square. Ensure the mating surface is also flat.

Reduce (grind) the length of the bolt so it can be tightened down.

Regards from Perth

Derek

I planed the bottom the the handle flat at first but didn't check for square. The handle will sit perfectly flush without the bolt installed. But as soon as I crank down on the bolt it pulls the heel and down and the toe end shoots for the sky. I'm almost wondering if the hole at the bottom of the handle isn't drilled deep enough, causing the wood to wood to wedge against the little nipple sticking up and tilting it?

[Michael J Evans]

Plus one other tip: Get a piece of the foam drawer liner used in a tool box, set the tote onto the pad, trace around the base of the tote with a sharp knife. While you can glue it in place to the bottom of the tote, just the pressure of the bolt holding down the tote will do. Tote's front "paw" seems a wee bit too thin, as it is....maybe add a thin layer of matching wood to the underside, and shape to match.

Also: the metal shaft of the bolt can be installed first, sans the brass end. Make sure the shaft is tightened down as tight as you can. Test fit the tote, and then bend the shaft until the fit is perfect to the ironworks. THEN add the brass end AFTER the tote is in place. Does tighten down enough? Remove everything, grind off the first two threads on the brass' end of the shaft. "Cone" the end so the brass will start onto the now shortened shaft. Re-install the shaft, and tighten down tight, Slide the tote onto the shaft, re-install the brass end.

BTDT...
IMAG0158.jpgrefurbbed planes.jpg
Stanley #28 and #29......$5 for the pair at a walk-to auction...

Thanks steven. Good tip on the drawer liner and I was thinking the toe end of the handle looked a little thin, but never having handled a transitional I wasn't sure. I'm not sure what wood type the handle is, but may just try a piece of oak on the bottom and stain.

Nice score btw. Those are two good looking planes, especially for $5.

[lowell holmes]

Your post just provided my next project. I've been bored. I have a Stanley 26 transitional plane that was given to me by one of my daughters. I've kept it in a display case just as it came to me.

A bit of refinishing is all that is needed. It has the blade, and cap. No parts are missing. I will post a picture when I'm through.

Does anyone use these planes? I will sharpen mine and see how it works.

[steven c newman]

Ben known to use these type of planes, from time to time.
.IMAG0112.jpg
Stanley #31 (1892 version)

[Michael J Evans]

Does anyone use these planes? I will sharpen mine and see how it works.

Mine seemed to work pretty well last night (minus handle issue). But I only took a few swipes on the edge of Doug fir. I'm about to go test a full width cut on my bench legs.

[lowell holmes]

I'm going to restore my Stanley 26. What finish should I use on the wood body? I might lean towards a an oil finish. I will not be reshaping the wood.

Should I scrape or sand the wood. I lean towards scraping.

Also, how does a person go about dating the plane?

[steven c newman]

You can just use a scraper, I used a plane. Have had quite a few dings to remove on some of the ones I have.

I usually just use a wipe-on, wipe-off coat or two of BLO. Works nicely on that old beech.

Usually, I look right on the chipbreaker for a date. You can also use the logo on the iron, IF it is original.

I would take a straight edge to the sole......wood tends to wear over a century of use, and most of the ones I have rehabbed...there was a "hump" right around the mouth area. Might also check the sides for square.

[Derek Cohen]

I planed the bottom the the handle flat at first but didn't check for square. The handle will sit perfectly flush without the bolt installed. But as soon as I crank down on the bolt it pulls the heel and down and the toe end shoots for the sky. I'm almost wondering if the hole at the bottom of the handle isn't drilled deep enough, causing the wood to wood to wedge against the little nipple sticking up and tilting it?

Michael, that sounds like the underside is not square to the bolt. Since the toe is getting very thin and flexible, I would glue on a section about 1/8" - 3/16" and plane that down to the desired bolt depth (before you cut it) and ensure all is square to the bolt (so the tension exerted is square). This should also stiffen the toe.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Michael J Evans]

What finish should I use on the wood body?

Also, how does a person go about dating the plane?

I was wondering these exact questions. But then I was also thinking about just trying some of that Kramers antique restorer and some wax. I sort of like the old look, hoping the Kramers stuff could spruce it up a bit. I cleaned up the brass depth knob and afterwards realized I liked the old patina better. Live and learn.

My plane has some patent dates stamped onto the lateral adjuster and a date on the iron itself. Do those patent dates actually have relation to the plane itself, or just was the patent was received?

[Michael J Evans]

Michael, that sounds like the underside is not square to the bolt. Since the toe is getting very thin and flexible, I would glue on a section about 1/8" - 3/16" and plane that down to the desired bolt depth (before you cut it) and ensure all is square to the bolt (so the tension exerted is square). This should also stiffen the toe.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Thanks Derek. I just got done gluing a piece on. Made it extra thick, just because my planing skills arnt very good yet. But hopefully tomorrow I can get this sorted out and back to work. I don't have a spokeshave yet, so for shaping I'm guessing I'm best off with chisel and files?

[steven c newman]

beltsander.JPG
I usually set this up.....

IF you want, I could slip down to the shop for a couple pictures of the totes I have?
IMAG0166.jpg
Just a few......the 29 is now a parts plane. BRB....

[steven c newman]

Taken just now..
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Stanley No. 31 ( horn lost the tip a while back, need to glue it back on)
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Yes, the toes are thin....
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Still seems to work..
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Stanley No. 28 sitting in front.
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Making a shaving. They tend to shoot straight up, and then wrap around my hand..
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Soles. The 31's was in a very wet garage, when I got it at a yard sale....toe is still a bit worn on a corner..
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The 28 (L) has the APL 19 92 on the iron, the 31 has a Stanley Rule & Level on it's iron.
Size reference?
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Front to rear: Stanley #6c T-10, Stanley #28, Stanley #7c, T-9,and the Stanley #31....