Oak Platter

[David Metzman]

Here is an oak platter I made to use as a Seder Plate for Passover. It is a bit over 20 inches wide. It is pretty heavy, I hollowed out the base some to reduce the weight. It is finished with Howard's Feed-N-Wax - orange oil and bees wax. No wet food will go on it. I am thinking that I should finishing/refinish later. Any suggestions? Danish Oil? General Finishes Salad Bowl Oil? Anything else? Should I have a problem putting it on top of the Howards? Is there any issue with walnut oil, which I understand hardens if slowly, and people with nut allergies?

In hindsight, as always, there are some design issues. For example, the inner rim separating the two sections should have been lower. I probably should have made it flat across. Also, it is too heavy.

It was turned green. Not sure what type of oak. Anyone have any ideas? The dark part is heart wood, I think. It was somewhat of a bear getting it round from the raw piece of wood which I cut from a log which was about 28 inches in diameter or so at the local dump (recycling center) in Northern NJ. If I have the energy I might go cut some more of it if it is still there. I had found that my chainsaw did not cut well (20 inch Craftsman) so based on a post I saw somewhere when looking to buy a new saw, I bought a new chain that is not an anti kickback chain and it cuts much better.

I made it a few days ago and one crack along the edge has appeared already. I have since wrapped it in newspaper.

Thanks, David

[David Delo]

If I understand you correctly.....you turned this green and finished it all in one session. If so, I don't know what your rim and bottom thicknesses are but from the pictures, I'd say your bottom is thicker than the rim and I think your rim is too thick to begin with. I think the piece is still "wet." Plus you have the inside rim adding a different thickness to the bottom for even drying purposes so I think you'll going to find other cracks develop or the existing ones get bigger as time goes on. Hope not but I think the piece is still wet.

Anyway, about finishing oak in bowl or platter form. Take a look at this link for finishing with Kiwi shoe polish. I posted a pic the other day of some spheres than I'm experimenting with but the bowl I have them sitting in was oak finished in that fashion. I like how it accents oak. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZGjvoU9Bi3U

[daryl moses]

I like it a lot. Nice job!! Unfortunately since it was turned green you can expect it to warp, and maybe crack. Wrapping it in paper "should" slow the drying process down and help prevent it from cracking.
If you want a more rounded platter in the future maybe rough turn it leaving it larger in diameter and thicker so when it does dry and warp you can return it to the lathe and true it up.
Nice job none the less.

[Brice Rogers]

I recall reading two things. One from Robo Hippy and another from another person. Advice: (1) wrap the edge with stretch-warp and (2) don't leave sharp edges - - round them and (3) after you've rough turned, stick into a bag to let the moisture in the piece come into equilibrium slowly. Why? If the inside and outside are at different moisture levels,and different volumes. Thant means that there are different stresses. Different stresses = high chance of cracking.

[Olaf Vogel]

It was turned green. Not sure what type of oak. Anyone have any ideas? The dark part is heart wood, I think. It was somewhat of a bear getting it round from the raw piece of wood which I cut from a log which was about 28 inches in diameter or so at the local dump (recycling center) in Northern NJ. If I have the energy I might go cut some more of it if it is still there. I had found that my chainsaw did not cut well (20 inch Craftsman) so based on a post I saw somewhere when looking to buy a new saw, I bought a new chain that is not an anti kickback chain and it cuts much better.

I made it a few days ago and one crack along the edge has appeared already. I have since wrapped it in newspaper.

Thanks, David

Hi Dave, It a nice looking platter. Being able to find wet oak is a great situation. (Personally I hate the smell of oak, but love the feel of turning it.)
If your chainsaw is struggling to cut that, first check that your blade is really sharp.

For drying larger diameters, I usually coat the piece in Anchor Seal, stick it in a cool, unventilated place and leave it there for at least a month. Some stay for 6 or more months. You want to dry this as slowing as possible. If you don't have any, then get that piece into a plastic garbage bag NOW, until you find a solution.

The wood will warp. Depending on the look you like, you can leave it.

Otherwise turn it again, to remove the wax. Then sand and finish. The extra mass you have on there allows you cut some off again.
Some piece warp so much they can't be turned again. Those heavily power sanded to remove the wax, then finished.

[David Metzman]

Thank you all for the suggestions and advice. I have jsut been seriously turning for under year so I have a lot to learn. David

[Jay Mullins]

David................No one starts off in this or any other field as an expert. We all start as beginers and as our learning curve goes up, our confidence and skill grows.

Turning green wood has it's pit-falls, mainly warping and cracking. Learning to control these takes time and learning from what doesn't work. Controlled drying will help a lot. I like to place the turned piece in a cardboard box or grocery bag for at least 2-3 weeks and longer in necessary. As far as warping goes, I try to restrict the movement with clamps or weights. As one writer above mentioned the roll of stretch plastic wrapped around the edge , especially covering the end-grain will help.

Nice looking platter, keep turning.

Jay Mullins