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Thread: Repair??

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    Lewisville, NC
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    Repair??

    My daughter and son-in-law just traded tables with us. She received an old walnut farm table that I bought 35 years ago when she was born. My wife and I got their table which was a custom made Robert Bergelin (former furniture company near Hickory/Morgantown, NC). It has been out of business since 2011? Can't find any updated contact info for anyone there.
    It is a large oval cherry table(1.5-2" thick). It has 3 additional leaves that can expand it to probably 12 feet. It has double pedestals and is large and heavy. My wife and I are happy with the trade.....BUT, there are a couple of places(1 sq ft or so) where my two wonderful grandkids somehow wore the finish completely off( yes, off) I can see bare cherry. I don't quite understand how it wore off....I would have assumed that it was a tough finish of some sort. My issue is I really prefer to try and repair this instead of a total refinish. The top has all the wonderful (scoops, dings, gouges, etc.) that were a part of its beauty. I do not want to start sanding all of that and end up with a flat table. I also don't want to refinish 99% of the table because of 1%. Sooooooooooooooooooo, how can I test the finish and figure out what is on it? It does not look like a stained type of finish....just aged cherry. I have the top disconnected and on a large rolling table in the garage until I can figure out my best approach. Any suggestions would be appreciated.20170410_163407_1491856574978_resized.jpg20170410_163415_1491856572604_resized.jpg20170410_163422_1491856552099_resized.jpg20170410_163440_1491856549379_resized.jpg

    Thanks,
    Jim

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
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    Try some DNA on a qtip on the bottom. If it dissolves the finish it's shellac. If it doesn't dissolve try lacquer thinner. If it dissolves it's likely lacquer. If it doesn't then it's some type of catalyzed finish or varnish. I'll bet it's lacquer.

    Personally, I would not fool around trying to repair it. I would strip the entire top with Kleanstrip premium stripper. It's fast and easy and won't hurt the wood underneath. Then you can apply a new finish to the entire top and it will look uniform. If you want to leave the dents and dings, that's fine, just strip it and don't sand it after.

    John

  3. #3
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    Feb 2003
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    I'll second what John said
    Steve Jenkins, McKinney, TX. 469 742-9694
    Always use the word "impossible" with extreme caution

  4. #4
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    Boy, that table top has been beat up! Not only are there the wear spots you point out, but dents and scratches all over the place.

    The pics make it seem that the table top is solid lumber, not veneer. If that is true, I'd say you have two strategies. One is to put some sort of finish on just the worn spots. I think it will just look patched. The other is to sand the top down, taking out the dents and scratches, and the worn spots. Then you varnish the whole thing. You get a beautiful new table. That'd be better, IMHO.

  5. #5
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    Yea, I'd strip it chemically and refinish with minimal sanding and then only to knock down any "nubbies" from raised grain.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  6. #6
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    Lewisville, NC
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    Thanks John, Steve, Jamie and Jim. I had assumed refinishing would be the best decision....was just hoping someone had a magic bullet!
    Jamie , all those dents and gouges, etc came with the new table. I remember being with them when they ordered it and each additional process (scooping, gouging, chaining, etc) costs a little extra. I remember saying that if they give their kids a few years, they would do that for free in everyday use.
    Well, I suppose I will make a trip to big box tomorrow and look for gallon can of Kleanstrip Premium and wait for a clear/overcast day.
    What do you all think of Waterlox Original as a finish coat? I could also try Behlens Rock Hard Table Top varnish. I would prefer to brush whatever I use as I want to do it outside. If I were using waterbased, I would spray it in my shop but don't like the look of Target(mostly what I spray) Poly as a final coat. I want something that will give the cherry a warm tone wiht using any stains/dyes, etc.
    Thanks for any feedback.

    Jim

  7. #7
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    Third's for what John said. Cheers

  8. #8
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    Dec 2010
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    San Bernardino
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    I would take a look at this website for repair ideas.

    https://www.youtube.com/user/johnsonrestoration/videos

  9. #9
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    There never are any "magic bullets"...except in Hollywood movies.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  10. #10
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    So true on the "Magic Bullets". Wishful thinking!

    Jim

  11. #11
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    Jim, if the existing finish turns out to be lacquer you can use 0000 steel wool to remove any surface dirt and wax then apply several coats of new finish either by brush or spraying. The steel wool will not remove the dings, dents, etc. The new lacquer will soften and bond to the old lacquer that hasn't been removed and the exposed wood will now be coated with finish. There may be some color difference between the areas where the old finish remains and the uncoated areas after you apply the new finish. I've done this type of repair on projects I've made that were originally finished with Deft Clear lacquer.
    Lee Schierer
    USNA '71
    Go Navy!

    My advice, comments and suggestions are free, but it costs money to run the site. If you found something of value here please give a little something back by becoming a contributor! Please Contribute

  12. #12
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    Feb 2003
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    Dining Room Table Makeover

    Well, finally finished up table and after letting it cure in the garage for a couple of weeks....we moved it into it's spot. The stripping went as well as stripping can go(being stripping and all). I ended up putting on 5 coats of General Finishes Oil and urethane wipe on finish in Satin. I really like the product, I had not used it before.
    Thanks for help ,
    Jim
    20170629_193840.jpg20170701_185505.jpg20170701_190652.jpg20170701_190917.jpg20170721_133808.jpg

  13. #13
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    That looks great, Jim. Well worth the effort to get there. I think you'll be pleased with the durability of Arm-R-Seal.

    John

  14. #14
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    Thanks John, as usual, after "taking the long road", I enjoyed the trip and end result more. I really like the GF Arm-R-Seal Oil and Urethane wipe on. I have recently used it on a couple of small pieces(decorative boxes) and it goes on very easily and gives coverage and protection with fewer coats that other wipe on finishes I've used.

    Jim

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