Why buy European machines?

[David Kumm]

Martin, Steve in CO had a Kolle planer that looked pristine. Have you tried him? Dave

[Martin Wasner]

Martin, Steve in CO had a Kolle planer that looked pristine. Have you tried him? Dave

That's the one I dilly dallied on and it's sold. Ya' snooze, ya' looze.... It fit the bill all around. Right options, right quality, right head, right price point.

I'm still hanging onto a twinge of hope that the other guy doesn't buy it and Steve doesn't lose my phone number.

[David Kumm]

Steve had a Kolle jointer with it that he wouldn't sell. Good guy. Dave

[Darcy Warner]

I had a Kolle planer, it was a sweet finish planer. The guy I sold it to wants my 24" Buss 4l and I will probably take the Kolle back in trade.

I have a 25" Baurele that I still have not got around to yet. Looks to be a nice finish planer as well.

I have owned 20 planers and nothing beats a Buss. I have two 24's and a 30.
my 30 has VS feed and one shot oil lube.

[Rick Fisher]

Martin, why not import one from Europe ? Seems like there's lots of used quality machines for sale over there.

[Marty Schlosser]

I'm a former pro, now fully retired and making everything from furniture to fences for family members and ourselves. My shop is a 1,100 sq ft basement set-up with a direct entry stairway from the garage.

I have a mix of, well, everything! Felder slider, vintage Wadkin 16" jointer, Wadkin Bursgreen 18" planer & General 20" bandsaw, Oneway lathe, Felder slot mortiser, Craftex shaper and so on. I'm a machine user, not a restorer and museum owner. For me, I prefer high-end quality built machines, which most of mine are. I don't care where or when they were built, as long as they're precise, work efficiently and safely.

[Martin Wasner]

Martin, why not import one from Europe ? Seems like there's lots of used quality machines for sale over there.

You mentioned that before somewhere.

Seems like a lot of trouble potentially? The dollar is doing pretty well against the euro right now, but I think the shipping could be insanely expensive. Then the risk of damage moving something half way across the planet. If you buy a new machine, the manufacture will make it right, used I'd think you'd be on your own fighting the shipper and dealing with the problem.

[peter gagliardi]

Martin, are you feeling ok??
I've watched and read your posts for a few years now, and there is one thing that was abundantly clear in a lot of them- you buy used, because buying new is expensive, and painful.
Lately I have seen mention a few times of new stuff.
You must be getting tired, or too busy to bother with the hunt for used, or been burned on used? Something.
I buy used and new, and like some from both, but a planer is one of those machines that I personally cannot see the payback on.
I'm just picking your brain as to how another business owner rationalizes where to allocate the funds.
For me, sanders, molders, and shapers are the best bang for the buck machines.
I almost bought another new Martin shaper last year at IWF, but passed after looking them over. Looked at a few used, and just got in an '06 T26 that had 53!!! hours on it with tenoning table and duo-control. It gave me fits for a few days, but now I am in control - mostly.

Maybe it was the recent un-aquisition trip for the sander.

[Martin Wasner]

Maybe it was the recent un-aquisition trip for the sander.

Too soon Peter, too soon....

I will certainly say in most instances, new is a mistake. I have bought my fair share of new things. Some I regret, others I'm glad I went new. Some things just make sense to buy new and not have to be worrying about who did what to it. I bought my Striebig and widebelt new for those reasons. My used acquisitions are almost always done when I don't NEED the tool. I NEEDED an automatic dovetailer, and a week later it was on the floor. (Though I didn't know it was going to take almost 100 drawers to get it dialed in and more like 300 to get it where I wanted, so I should've ordered it much sooner.)

Three tools I'm on hunt for right now. The right 24" planer, a rotisserie door clamp, and a PMK automatic coper. I really want to get the planer situated before I move into the new building, which is looking like three weeks away.


I've outgrown my little planer and it's starting too show its age. I knew about that Kolle back in February, but I was hoarding cash for the shop project and didn't want to tie up capital. I'm really low on breaker space for single phase stuff, and I really don't want to waste time wiring up the old one. It is time to move on and I'm approaching it being a NEED.

[Warren Lake]

Martin is there an advantage to an automatic dovetailer compared to a multi pin 15 or 25 unit

[Martin Wasner]

Martin is there an advantage to an automatic dovetailer compared to a multi pin 15 or 25 unit

Dialing in all those bit heights is a nightmare. I've never set one up with that many spindles, but a shop I worked at had a 4 or 5 spindle dodds dovetailer. I had to change the bits once. Unless there's something I didn't know, it took me a while to get the heights even, and at the correct height for fitment.

I would do a dedicated cnc dovetailer if I had the money. Omec has some really nice machines. I was looking at a midline machine, I think it was $30k. My Cantek was $10k. It works, but a cnc model will have a little faster turn around time for a set of corners than my Cantek. There's other advantages too, like the ability to climb cut, and adjustable rate of travel mid cut. Plus you can vary pin spacing.

Years ago I priced out a Mereen Johnson cnc dovetailer. It had I think 10 spindles. Holy crap fast. It did the fronts and back separately, and the sides together at once. $60k. The 5-600 drawers we crank out a year can't come close to justifying that cost. You'd need to be doing that or better a week.

[Warren Lake]

Brookman 15 and 25 the 25 anyway should be able to do a whole drawer in 2 minutes or faster, they do a side and back then another side and back at the same time. So once loaded two steps. Ive seen the 15 pin running a few years back and it was set up well and fast. that one was a manual machine so he could climb cut and feed any rate as it was him moving the sled. Im not sure how the partially automated ones work if they climb or not just seen them in a number of shops. ys you cant change pin spacing. I like the look of the Leigh alot better but know its slow far too slow for what most people are doing.

[Martin Wasner]

Another reason to Peter. When I move into the new building I have a pile of used equipment I've never used, that has been patiently sitting in storage, that will need attention and some level of tinkering to get running the way I want.

18" Whirlwind cutoff saw, with a 10' Tigerstop.
Tannawitz Type U tablesaw.
Northfield #4 tablesaw.
Diehl rip saw
SAC jointer
Castle machine

I have zero idea how my new compressor works.

I have no clue if my baghouse is functional.


Plus all the stuff that is currently in service and will need checking and possible adjustments just from being moved.

[Joe Calhoon]

IMG_2093.jpg
Spending a week at the Holzfachschule in Germany. They have a nice setup for planing. A Rex for rough planing and a Martin for finish.
They have a lot of CNC here and I asked if they train woodworkers on troubleshooting electronics. They said it is not allowed for non electricians to work on machinery. They rely on the techs for this. I suppose a lot easier here from the source.

[Rick Fisher]

More pictures Joe.